Axle strength vs weight and tyre size - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 01-12-2002, 11:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Axle strength vs weight and tyre size

As some of you know I am changing my rangie tray back into a series 2a hybred. (Im running d44s front and rear)

This 2a body is real light and I am going to build up everything as light as possible.

The rangie tray back weighed 4400lb and I think that with the series 2a body I should be able to get it under 3300lb which is a sh!t load lighter.

So my question is this if I have gone from 4400lb to 3300lb and I currently run 36in tyres what tyre size could I increase too while still retaining the same axle strength reliability. (also I will change the diff gears so that I will have the same over all reduction).


My first thought was that axle loads were directly related to the weight so that if you decreased the weight by 25% then you could increase the tyres by 25%. I dont think that this is the case cause it would mean on my 25% lightned rig I could go from 36s to 44s with the same axle loads (this is obviously BS).

So what do you guys reckon. How much does weight play on axle loads and breakages. (cause I wanna get some 39.5s)

Sam
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Old 01-13-2002, 01:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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well i think that with stock D44s you could easily do 38s. beef the 44s with Hy-Tuf shafts and some CTM u-joints, and a full floater kit in the back, and you could run 39.5s or 42s if you wanted to, i think. but you would really have to regear with these sizes.
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Old 01-13-2002, 04:52 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i know some tjs who wheel hard with the 30/35 combo on 38's and do fine. every time you break something, its for a reason. (stupid pedal) beefed 44's should hold the 39.5's just fine with some shiny new alloy shafts and good joints. just do it.

wait a sec, why the hell am i in the rover section?
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Old 01-14-2002, 06:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm running Scout 44's front and rear with 4.56 gears, ARB's, and 38" TSL-SX's and an injected Chevy 400 small block. I put the Warn Full Floater in the back with the hardened axles and the Warn hardened axles in the front and I havn't broken anything. They have made it through Moab (Dump Bump, Lower Helldorado, Lower Proving Grounds, etc) and they run Hot Springs, Arkansas all the time (like a little Tellico). I can't complain. 44's will hold up as long as you go lite on the stupid pedal. I have no problems with 44's but I also know guys who run the same size tire as I do and they are breaking 9 inchers and 60's. It all depends on the driver.
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Old 01-18-2002, 10:02 AM   #5 (permalink)
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this is a great example. while shooting our montrose tape, i saw two similar suziki, same everything almost. except one driver was able to break 6, yes, 6 birfields over 2 days. it all came down to the driver on that one. (by the way, who in the hell has 6 spare birfields?)
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Old 01-18-2002, 12:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Its not really about the weight, although lighter is better. it has to do with the weight/leverage that the tire applies to the axle. I really don't think going lighter makes that much of a difference on axle breakage. its usually when the tire is spinning and then gets sudden traction that axles break.

I have wheeled weighing in at 5000lbs with 33's and stock D90 axles and didn't break anything. and that was rock crawling.
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Old 01-18-2002, 02:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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All good info guys thanks

I carnt see me running alloy axles initially anyway (im in Aust and cost and weak AUS dollar and shipping = too hard) but I will have to regear.

I can get 4.88 easily. A guy here imports them and has them in stock.

He can also get 5.13 and 5.38 in for me but they will take a couple of months to get em. What are my chances of breaking these sorts of low gears with the stock axles. If I break one and have to wait months to get another it will sh!t me to tears. But if there is no chance or breaking these gears with the stock axles then I will go for em.

Or should I order three sets if I want to go this low (extra $$$$)?

Or should I just go for the 4.88 cause they stock them and the increase in gearing to 5.13 or 5.38 wont really make that much difference.


BTW how the hell do all these guys run around at better than 100:1 that I read in all the mags (JP and petersons). Man im at about 60:1 now and these gears will make it about 75:1 but Im still a long way from 100. I hear guys with autos at 70:1. What the hell do these guys run????????

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Old 01-18-2002, 02:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Many d90 people running 35-36 tires running 4.75 gears tend to trailer their vehicles. i don't know about aussie gears bt the 4.77 LR gears are known to be weak, so unless they have changed the alloy to strengthen the gears like GBR gear sets they might just let go on you.

but i run GBR 4.11's with 33's that puts me at 3000rpm at 70mph in 5th gear
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Old 01-18-2002, 03:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Brian,

I got d44s in my range rover/series IIa hybred not rover stuff

I know what you mean about the hway gearing and I think that anything over about 1hour trip then I will trailer.

Have a look in the "post a pick of your rover"
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...threadid=22051

Mines the Range Rover tray back and now the half built series IIa hybred on the 36s.


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Old 01-18-2002, 03:52 PM   #10 (permalink)
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VERY nice!

but, that was my point. Danna 44's will take what they will take. depending on your driving style/type of wheeling. just lightenening the body is not the deciding factor. Most rock runners who go big tires like 37 and up go with Dana60's. and they are VERY light vehicles. but they do extreme rock crawling.

i guess I always fall back to there are no absolutes in building a vehicle, and everything is a compromise.
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