Castor Correction - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Old Scout · 01-16-2002, 02:03 PM

I thought I would run this by you guys and see if it's been done before.

I need to recover my lost caster from the 3" lift. My pinion angle is perfect for a DC drive shaft and the cut drop arms would just mess up the pinion angle.

I have a good buddy** that is a nuclear grade welder and he wants to just cut/turn and weld the swivel ball. I wanted to fill and re-drill the pattern. Anyone else done this ???

** MY buddy Greg is the chief process engineer for Lawrence Livermore Labs and this childs play for him.

Rover Addiction · 01-16-2002, 03:15 PM

Either one should work, but don't forget the panhard rod mounting to the front of the axle and also the steering linkages that will now be moved a bit in relation to the 3rd member. This could be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on what you're going to do with it.

-John

roverhybrids · 01-16-2002, 07:48 PM

If you want to cut and then weld why not do the ends on the housing where they are pressed together.
If not I would do the weld and redrill method.
I thinkn welding the swivel ball is a bad idea.

RockRover · 01-17-2002, 10:26 AM

Your ball's are cast

...Just keep that in mind.

My plan, when I was going to build a Rover/Dana 44 hybrid, was to cut the straight part (tube) off the swivel housing (similar to the line in your pic). It just so happens that with about .02 worth of lath work I could get an interference fit into a 44 axle tube (just past the knuckle). That way I would have a Rover/Dana hybrid and could choose any wms width I wanted and run cheap and easy 30 spliners, all while retaining the stock clearance. Total out-of-pocket cost $350 with axles (cut-respline). Add $525 for a Rover 30 spline ARB.

I've looked at the re-drill method too, but I never had significant caster issues (didn't care about a little wandering on my rig). That would be your best bet IMO.

--D

RockRover · 01-17-2002, 10:33 AM

Your ball's are cast

...Just keep that in mind.

My plan, when I was going to build a Rover/Dana 44 hybrid, was to cut the straight part (tube) off the swivel housing (similar to the line in your pic). It just so happens that with about .02 worth of lath work I could get an interference fit into a 44 axle tube (just past the knuckle). That way I would have a Rover/Dana hybrid and could choose any wms width I wanted and run cheap and easy 30 spliners, all while retaining the stock clearance. Total out-of-pocket cost $350 with axles (cut-respline). Add $525 for a Rover 30 spline ARB.

I've looked at the re-drill method too, but I never had significant caster issues (didn't care about a little wandering on my rig). That would be your best bet IMO.

--D

Strange Rover · 01-17-2002, 01:23 PM

Being the rough bastard that I am I would just slot the holes in the swivel ball (I would guess that you would only have to slot them about 1/8 inch (this is based on a guessed measurements of a 3ft long arm,3in lift and the bolt PCD being 3in in) So the 1/8 in slot would be stuff all and easily done with a die grinder. Once the slots are done and the rig has been test driven and you are happy with it (with slots you can also change the amount af caster if you arnt happy) you can then drill a new hole and hammer in a dowl so that it dosent move.

I wouldnt weld anything cause it will crack and fall off for sure

Sam

I could be wrong with the calc of 1/8 in but hey WTF

01-16-2002, 02:03 PM	#1 (permalink)
Old Scout IH/Rover Moderator Join Date: Feb 2000 Member # 17 Location: Aptos,Ca Posts: 13,399	Castor Correction I thought I would run this by you guys and see if it's been done before. I need to recover my lost caster from the 3" lift. My pinion angle is perfect for a DC drive shaft and the cut drop arms would just mess up the pinion angle. I have a good buddy that is a nuclear grade welder and he wants to just cut/turn and weld the swivel ball. I wanted to fill and re-drill the pattern. Anyone else done this ??? MY buddy Greg is the chief process engineer for Lawrence Livermore Labs and this childs play for him. Attached Images __________________ I like beer. On occasion, I will even drink beer to celebrate a major event such as the fall of communism or the fact that the refrigerator is still working." BUY MY BOAT http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/misc-...e-history.html

01-16-2002, 03:15 PM	#2 (permalink)
Rover Addiction Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Member # 4749 Location: Erie, CO Posts: 975	Either one should work, but don't forget the panhard rod mounting to the front of the axle and also the steering linkages that will now be moved a bit in relation to the 3rd member. This could be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on what you're going to do with it. -John __________________ "All the parts falling off this truck are of the finest british craftsmanship."

01-17-2002, 10:26 AM	#4 (permalink)
RockRover Rock God Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4101 Location: Santa Fe Posts: 2,232	Your ball's are cast ...Just keep that in mind. My plan, when I was going to build a Rover/Dana 44 hybrid, was to cut the straight part (tube) off the swivel housing (similar to the line in your pic). It just so happens that with about .02 worth of lath work I could get an interference fit into a 44 axle tube (just past the knuckle). That way I would have a Rover/Dana hybrid and could choose any wms width I wanted and run cheap and easy 30 spliners, all while retaining the stock clearance. Total out-of-pocket cost $350 with axles (cut-respline). Add $525 for a Rover 30 spline ARB. I've looked at the re-drill method too, but I never had significant caster issues (didn't care about a little wandering on my rig). That would be your best bet IMO. --D __________________ Hendrix 'X' Chassis #006 http://www.hunt4steve.com/Doug.html

01-17-2002, 10:33 AM	#5 (permalink)
RockRover Rock God Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4101 Location: Santa Fe Posts: 2,232	Your ball's are cast ...Just keep that in mind. My plan, when I was going to build a Rover/Dana 44 hybrid, was to cut the straight part (tube) off the swivel housing (similar to the line in your pic). It just so happens that with about .02 worth of lath work I could get an interference fit into a 44 axle tube (just past the knuckle). That way I would have a Rover/Dana hybrid and could choose any wms width I wanted and run cheap and easy 30 spliners, all while retaining the stock clearance. Total out-of-pocket cost $350 with axles (cut-respline). Add $525 for a Rover 30 spline ARB. I've looked at the re-drill method too, but I never had significant caster issues (didn't care about a little wandering on my rig). That would be your best bet IMO. --D __________________ Hendrix 'X' Chassis #006 http://www.hunt4steve.com/Doug.html

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01-16-2002, 07:48 PM	#3 (permalink)
roverhybrids Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 3979 Location: redding, ca Posts: 694	If you want to cut and then weld why not do the ends on the housing where they are pressed together. If not I would do the weld and redrill method. I thinkn welding the swivel ball is a bad idea.

01-17-2002, 01:23 PM	#6 (permalink)
Strange Rover Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7962 Location: Australia Posts: 1,462	Being the rough bastard that I am I would just slot the holes in the swivel ball (I would guess that you would only have to slot them about 1/8 inch (this is based on a guessed measurements of a 3ft long arm,3in lift and the bolt PCD being 3in in) So the 1/8 in slot would be stuff all and easily done with a die grinder. Once the slots are done and the rig has been test driven and you are happy with it (with slots you can also change the amount af caster if you arnt happy) you can then drill a new hole and hammer in a dowl so that it dosent move. I wouldnt weld anything cause it will crack and fall off for sure Sam I could be wrong with the calc of 1/8 in but hey WTF