self leveling unit ball joints ques. - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

antiredneck · 02-07-2002, 10:55 PM

I'm gonna need to address my self leveling unit "clunking issue" soon ('89 RR), is this a case of replacing two ball joints similar to types used on passenger car upper/lower control arms, (heat, pickle fork,wrenches) or do I need some new techniques/tools? I'd appreciate input from someone whose done these. Being that the rear axle is located laterally by the A-arm, am I tempting fate by putting this off any longer? Thanks in advance.

evilfij · 02-07-2002, 11:04 PM

You sure it is the SLU ball joints and not the A frame ball joint?

They are two different things. The A frame ball joint is not particularly complicated. I have never done the SLU ones, nor known for them to go bad.

Ron

antiredneck · 02-07-2002, 11:27 PM

Actually, I'm not sure. I just assumed. guess I'd better get under there w/ a prybar and poke around. Guess it'd be best to jackup (unload) the rear to do this? Thanks again.

evilfij · 02-08-2002, 01:38 PM

Stick a big pry bar under the aframe and see what kind of movement that ball joint there has. Doubt the SLU ball joints are the issue, I am not even sure how to test them. If it is a clunk on acceleration/decelleration it is likely niether. Then you are looking at U joints in the DS, or diff or t-case wear. If it wanders also check the trailing arm bushings.

Ron

PS they sell an adjustable a frame ball joint if yours is toast.

antiredneck · 02-09-2002, 12:34 AM

Hey, thanks for the help, man. Yeah, it clunks whenever I go over sharp bumps/potholes regardless of accel./decel. or at a constant speed. So I'm pretty sure it's the A-frame. I do also have the "slack" in the t-case, but I'm just not gonna deal w/that. Is that caused by the chain stretching? Just curious. I have the lsd, non-locking type.

alia176 · 02-09-2002, 06:34 AM

The chain slacking issue is a relatively easy fix on the Borg Warners. There're couple of ways to do it: drop the whole T case or just drop the rear half. The rear half contains the guts anyway. A chain can be had for a good price from www.nationaldrivetrain.com. I think I paid less than a $100 for it couple of years ago. It's worth replacing the bearings too while you're in there but I don't know if those can be purchased aftermarket as well. I was in a hurry so I didn't replace the bearings.

Ali

Serious One · 02-09-2002, 10:15 AM

Here's what I've done on 4 different LR's. It's a pain in the ASS, but honestly it's worth it.

Remove A-frame and SLU completely.

Dissasemble completely.

Discard SLU (or decomission it for a good show...inquire for details)

Take A-frame arms to machine shop. Have bushings pressed out. Replace with OME (you can do this w/out a press)

Remove ball-joint (kind of a PITA, inquire for details).

Re-assemble A-frame and install.

At this point you basically have 2 options. Heavier springs or airbags. (or do nothing if you never plan to carry anything in the back)

I have gone both routes, and I would suggest air-bags for the times when you need to tow, or carry heavy loads.

Internal air-bags are cheap, easy to install, and are pretty tough. I've been running them for almost 2 years in one of my trucks. Rovers Down South is also selling official LR 'helper' springs from 110/130's. I have no experience with them. The nice thing about the airbags is that you can adjust the 'assist' either manually, or get fancy and install a switch and guage and compressor.

Ditch the SLU, get some new bushings and life will be much better.

While you're at it, you should check the trailing arm bushings as well. I would replace the upper with genuine rubber bushings, and the lowers with OME.

Good luck!

Michael

evilfij · 02-09-2002, 03:02 PM

If there is nothing wrong with the SLU just keep it.

The a frame ball joint came out fine on mine. Do that first and also look at the bushings back there.

"Rovers Down South is also selling official LR 'helper' springs from 110/130's."

They will only work with the wider 110/130 rear springs.

Ron

PS the SLU is under high pressure and should never be punctured, right SeriousOne.

Serious One · 02-10-2002, 11:18 PM

Ron (and everyone else)

DON'T EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER puncture the inner bladder on the SLU or in any way try to dissasemble it!

Send any and all non-decomissioned SLU's, working or not, to me:

1010 SE Powell
Portland, OR 97202

We have the proper 'facilities' and 'training' to 'properly' dispose of them.

We're ready and waiting!

Michael

02-07-2002, 10:55 PM	#1 (permalink)
antiredneck Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7967 Posts: 51	self leveling unit ball joints ques. I'm gonna need to address my self leveling unit "clunking issue" soon ('89 RR), is this a case of replacing two ball joints similar to types used on passenger car upper/lower control arms, (heat, pickle fork,wrenches) or do I need some new techniques/tools? I'd appreciate input from someone whose done these. Being that the rear axle is located laterally by the A-arm, am I tempting fate by putting this off any longer? Thanks in advance.

02-07-2002, 11:04 PM	#2 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	You sure it is the SLU ball joints and not the A frame ball joint? They are two different things. The A frame ball joint is not particularly complicated. I have never done the SLU ones, nor known for them to go bad. Ron __________________ :evil:

02-08-2002, 01:38 PM	#4 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	Stick a big pry bar under the aframe and see what kind of movement that ball joint there has. Doubt the SLU ball joints are the issue, I am not even sure how to test them. If it is a clunk on acceleration/decelleration it is likely niether. Then you are looking at U joints in the DS, or diff or t-case wear. If it wanders also check the trailing arm bushings. Ron PS they sell an adjustable a frame ball joint if yours is toast. __________________ :evil:

02-09-2002, 06:34 AM	#6 (permalink)
alia176 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 9859 Location: Tijeras, NM Posts: 191	Chain slacking on the BW The chain slacking issue is a relatively easy fix on the Borg Warners. There're couple of ways to do it: drop the whole T case or just drop the rear half. The rear half contains the guts anyway. A chain can be had for a good price from www.nationaldrivetrain.com. I think I paid less than a $100 for it couple of years ago. It's worth replacing the bearings too while you're in there but I don't know if those can be purchased aftermarket as well. I was in a hurry so I didn't replace the bearings. Ali

02-09-2002, 03:02 PM	#8 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	If there is nothing wrong with the SLU just keep it. The a frame ball joint came out fine on mine. Do that first and also look at the bushings back there. "Rovers Down South is also selling official LR 'helper' springs from 110/130's." They will only work with the wider 110/130 rear springs. Ron PS the SLU is under high pressure and should never be punctured, right SeriousOne. __________________ :evil:

02-07-2002, 11:27 PM	#3 (permalink)
antiredneck Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7967 Posts: 51	Actually, I'm not sure. I just assumed. guess I'd better get under there w/ a prybar and poke around. Guess it'd be best to jackup (unload) the rear to do this? Thanks again.

02-09-2002, 12:34 AM	#5 (permalink)
antiredneck Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7967 Posts: 51	Hey, thanks for the help, man. Yeah, it clunks whenever I go over sharp bumps/potholes regardless of accel./decel. or at a constant speed. So I'm pretty sure it's the A-frame. I do also have the "slack" in the t-case, but I'm just not gonna deal w/that. Is that caused by the chain stretching? Just curious. I have the lsd, non-locking type.

02-09-2002, 10:15 AM	#7 (permalink)
Serious One Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8768 Location: Utahr Posts: 4,054	Here's what I've done on 4 different LR's. It's a pain in the ASS, but honestly it's worth it. Remove A-frame and SLU completely. Dissasemble completely. Discard SLU (or decomission it for a good show...inquire for details) Take A-frame arms to machine shop. Have bushings pressed out. Replace with OME (you can do this w/out a press) Remove ball-joint (kind of a PITA, inquire for details). Re-assemble A-frame and install. At this point you basically have 2 options. Heavier springs or airbags. (or do nothing if you never plan to carry anything in the back) I have gone both routes, and I would suggest air-bags for the times when you need to tow, or carry heavy loads. Internal air-bags are cheap, easy to install, and are pretty tough. I've been running them for almost 2 years in one of my trucks. Rovers Down South is also selling official LR 'helper' springs from 110/130's. I have no experience with them. The nice thing about the airbags is that you can adjust the 'assist' either manually, or get fancy and install a switch and guage and compressor. Ditch the SLU, get some new bushings and life will be much better. While you're at it, you should check the trailing arm bushings as well. I would replace the upper with genuine rubber bushings, and the lowers with OME. Good luck! Michael

02-10-2002, 11:18 PM	#9 (permalink)
Serious One Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8768 Location: Utahr Posts: 4,054	Ron (and everyone else) DON'T EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER puncture the inner bladder on the SLU or in any way try to dissasemble it! Send any and all non-decomissioned SLU's, working or not, to me: 1010 SE Powell Portland, OR 97202 We have the proper 'facilities' and 'training' to 'properly' dispose of them. We're ready and waiting! Michael

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