GBR drive flanges - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Jtisdale · 02-10-2002, 09:27 AM

I was just installing my GBR front half shafts and drive flanges this past weekend. During installation I was thinking to myself, man if I break a front axle how the crap am I going to get these drive flanges off. They are just short of a pressed fit, in fact I tightened the flange bolts down in clockwise sequence to seat it on the splines!

My question is does anyone have a good method of removing these?

Johnathan

FrankenRover · 02-10-2002, 10:01 AM

They will loosen up with some driving according to Bill at GBR. I have not had the opportunity to take mine off yet, but I hope they come off easier than they went on!!

Blister

Jtisdale · 02-10-2002, 10:50 AM

Yeah I hope so, maybe you should bring one of your spare entire axle assemblies to Cruces in case one of us breaks a front!

Johnathan

Jtisdale · 02-10-2002, 10:51 AM

PS- just got my CC confirmation in the mail yesturday!

Johnathan

Jtisdale · 02-11-2002, 05:52 AM

I think the front/rear flanges are very similar, the front just looks to be a bit longer. Anyway thanks for the input, hopefully the fronts will loosen in time.

Johnathan

Rover Addiction · 02-11-2002, 09:22 AM

Just take the bolts out and the snap ring off (if it has one) and then tap it out the way it came in with a hammer and a punch or a socket. It may take some time to punch, pull back, punch, pull back, but it should work.

-John

Jtisdale · 02-11-2002, 10:17 AM

I'm not sure what you are saying will work John, you can't get to the back side to hammer. Maybe I'm not picturing what you are saying correctly.

Johnathan

Rover Addiction · 02-11-2002, 01:13 PM

Since I don't have these new soooper dooper CVs and axles, I haven't seen them yet, but I thought they were similar to the rears I have from GBR that have the flange with the splined hole all the way through that the axle shaft presses into with a c-clip on the end and then a screw down cap on the outside to cover it up and seal it.

Are these different? If they are a blind end, my suggestion wouldn't work, but if they are open like the others it will. Of course, if they're a blind end, then they could be sealing on the splines and causing an air/grease bubble to be compressed inside and then the corresponding vacuum inside when you try to pull them out.

I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of the parts if you have one or can take one.

Or.. I guess I'll just wait until the CC and see it there.

-John

Jtisdale · 02-11-2002, 02:11 PM

hehe! see ya next week!

Johnathan

FrankenRover · 02-11-2002, 02:51 PM

There is a pretty easy way to get them off, if they are too tight. I use a buggered front short halfshaft that the splines have been sheared off. You take the threaded cap off, then the circlip off, then using the buggered front shaft carefully place it on the axle extending past the flange and pound it carefully inward with a hammer until you see/feel some resistance. Then pull the flange assembly away from the hub (you should get about 1/4" or so). Then put something small in the space between the flange and the hub, and tap in the axle with the buggered axle again until you run outta room again. Repeat the process with progressively larger things put in the space between the flange and the hub (I use progressively larger 1/4" sockets laying sideways), until the flange pops off.

This is much harder to explain than it is to do in real life. I can show you at the CC if interested.

Bill R.

tomw · 02-11-2002, 11:28 PM

Both my GBR flanges and my Torque limiter hubs require a bit of a BFH approach to get tehm on and off. The Torque limiters loosened up over time as I suspect the GBR flanges will also.

Bad news no CC for me

TomW

roverhybrids · 02-11-2002, 11:53 PM

hey tomw

welcome newbie

Rover Addiction · 02-12-2002, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by BillnSandi
There is a pretty easy way to get them off, if they are too tight. I use a buggered front short halfshaft that the splines have been sheared off. You take the threaded cap off, then the circlip off, then using the buggered front shaft carefully place it on the axle extending past the flange and pound it carefully inward with a hammer until you see/feel some resistance. Then pull the flange assembly away from the hub (you should get about 1/4" or so). Then put something small in the space between the flange and the hub, and tap in the axle with the buggered axle again until you run outta room again. Repeat the process with progressively larger things put in the space between the flange and the hub (I use progressively larger 1/4" sockets laying sideways), until the flange pops off.

This is much harder to explain than it is to do in real life. I can show you at the CC if interested.

Bill R.

Yup, that's what I was trying to explain..

It'll work, trust me! I've had to do it a couple times myself.

-John

tomw · 02-13-2002, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by roverhybrids
hey tomw
welcome newbie

Woohoo

So this is where everyone evacuated to!

02-10-2002, 09:27 AM	#1 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	GBR drive flanges I was just installing my GBR front half shafts and drive flanges this past weekend. During installation I was thinking to myself, man if I break a front axle how the crap am I going to get these drive flanges off. They are just short of a pressed fit, in fact I tightened the flange bolts down in clockwise sequence to seat it on the splines! My question is does anyone have a good method of removing these? Johnathan

02-11-2002, 09:22 AM	#6 (permalink)
Rover Addiction Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Member # 4749 Location: Erie, CO Posts: 975	Just take the bolts out and the snap ring off (if it has one) and then tap it out the way it came in with a hammer and a punch or a socket. It may take some time to punch, pull back, punch, pull back, but it should work. -John __________________ "All the parts falling off this truck are of the finest british craftsmanship." Last edited by Rover Addiction; 02-11-2002 at 09:24 AM.

02-11-2002, 01:13 PM	#8 (permalink)
Rover Addiction Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Member # 4749 Location: Erie, CO Posts: 975	Since I don't have these new soooper dooper CVs and axles, I haven't seen them yet, but I thought they were similar to the rears I have from GBR that have the flange with the splined hole all the way through that the axle shaft presses into with a c-clip on the end and then a screw down cap on the outside to cover it up and seal it. Are these different? If they are a blind end, my suggestion wouldn't work, but if they are open like the others it will. Of course, if they're a blind end, then they could be sealing on the splines and causing an air/grease bubble to be compressed inside and then the corresponding vacuum inside when you try to pull them out. I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of the parts if you have one or can take one. Or.. I guess I'll just wait until the CC and see it there. -John __________________ "All the parts falling off this truck are of the finest british craftsmanship."

02-11-2002, 11:28 PM	#11 (permalink)
tomw Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 9907 Location: Front Range Posts: 279	Both my GBR flanges and my Torque limiter hubs require a bit of a BFH approach to get tehm on and off. The Torque limiters loosened up over time as I suspect the GBR flanges will also. Bad news no CC for me TomW __________________ TomW&The Killer Bee

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02-10-2002, 10:01 AM	#2 (permalink)
FrankenRover Registered - Active Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9461 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 1,763	They will loosen up with some driving according to Bill at GBR. I have not had the opportunity to take mine off yet, but I hope they come off easier than they went on!! Blister

02-10-2002, 10:50 AM	#3 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	Yeah I hope so, maybe you should bring one of your spare entire axle assemblies to Cruces in case one of us breaks a front! Johnathan

02-10-2002, 10:51 AM	#4 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	PS- just got my CC confirmation in the mail yesturday! Johnathan

02-11-2002, 05:52 AM	#5 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	I think the front/rear flanges are very similar, the front just looks to be a bit longer. Anyway thanks for the input, hopefully the fronts will loosen in time. Johnathan

02-11-2002, 10:17 AM	#7 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	I'm not sure what you are saying will work John, you can't get to the back side to hammer. Maybe I'm not picturing what you are saying correctly. Johnathan

02-11-2002, 02:11 PM	#9 (permalink)
Jtisdale Rock God Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 8122 Location: USA Posts: 1,256	hehe! see ya next week! Johnathan

02-11-2002, 02:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
FrankenRover Registered - Active Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9461 Location: Albuquerque, NM Posts: 1,763	There is a pretty easy way to get them off, if they are too tight. I use a buggered front short halfshaft that the splines have been sheared off. You take the threaded cap off, then the circlip off, then using the buggered front shaft carefully place it on the axle extending past the flange and pound it carefully inward with a hammer until you see/feel some resistance. Then pull the flange assembly away from the hub (you should get about 1/4" or so). Then put something small in the space between the flange and the hub, and tap in the axle with the buggered axle again until you run outta room again. Repeat the process with progressively larger things put in the space between the flange and the hub (I use progressively larger 1/4" sockets laying sideways), until the flange pops off. This is much harder to explain than it is to do in real life. I can show you at the CC if interested. Bill R.

02-11-2002, 11:53 PM	#12 (permalink)
roverhybrids Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 3979 Location: redding, ca Posts: 694	hey tomw welcome newbie