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Old 02-10-2002, 10:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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GBR drive flanges

I was just installing my GBR front half shafts and drive flanges this past weekend. During installation I was thinking to myself, man if I break a front axle how the crap am I going to get these drive flanges off. They are just short of a pressed fit, in fact I tightened the flange bolts down in clockwise sequence to seat it on the splines!

My question is does anyone have a good method of removing these?

Johnathan
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Old 02-10-2002, 11:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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They will loosen up with some driving according to Bill at GBR. I have not had the opportunity to take mine off yet, but I hope they come off easier than they went on!!

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Old 02-10-2002, 11:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Yeah I hope so, maybe you should bring one of your spare entire axle assemblies to Cruces in case one of us breaks a front!

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Old 02-10-2002, 11:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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PS- just got my CC confirmation in the mail yesturday!

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Old 02-11-2002, 06:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I think the front/rear flanges are very similar, the front just looks to be a bit longer. Anyway thanks for the input, hopefully the fronts will loosen in time.

Johnathan
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Old 02-11-2002, 10:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Just take the bolts out and the snap ring off (if it has one) and then tap it out the way it came in with a hammer and a punch or a socket. It may take some time to punch, pull back, punch, pull back, but it should work.

-John
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Old 02-11-2002, 11:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'm not sure what you are saying will work John, you can't get to the back side to hammer. Maybe I'm not picturing what you are saying correctly.

Johnathan
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Old 02-11-2002, 02:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Since I don't have these new soooper dooper CVs and axles, I haven't seen them yet, but I thought they were similar to the rears I have from GBR that have the flange with the splined hole all the way through that the axle shaft presses into with a c-clip on the end and then a screw down cap on the outside to cover it up and seal it.

Are these different? If they are a blind end, my suggestion wouldn't work, but if they are open like the others it will. Of course, if they're a blind end, then they could be sealing on the splines and causing an air/grease bubble to be compressed inside and then the corresponding vacuum inside when you try to pull them out.

I'd be real interested in seeing a picture of the parts if you have one or can take one.

Or.. I guess I'll just wait until the CC and see it there.

-John
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Old 02-11-2002, 03:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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hehe! see ya next week!

Johnathan
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Old 02-11-2002, 03:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is a pretty easy way to get them off, if they are too tight. I use a buggered front short halfshaft that the splines have been sheared off. You take the threaded cap off, then the circlip off, then using the buggered front shaft carefully place it on the axle extending past the flange and pound it carefully inward with a hammer until you see/feel some resistance. Then pull the flange assembly away from the hub (you should get about 1/4" or so). Then put something small in the space between the flange and the hub, and tap in the axle with the buggered axle again until you run outta room again. Repeat the process with progressively larger things put in the space between the flange and the hub (I use progressively larger 1/4" sockets laying sideways), until the flange pops off.

This is much harder to explain than it is to do in real life. I can show you at the CC if interested.

Bill R.
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Old 02-12-2002, 12:28 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Both my GBR flanges and my Torque limiter hubs require a bit of a BFH approach to get tehm on and off. The Torque limiters loosened up over time as I suspect the GBR flanges will also.

Bad news no CC for me

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Old 02-12-2002, 12:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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hey tomw
welcome newbie
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Old 02-12-2002, 11:03 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by BillnSandi
There is a pretty easy way to get them off, if they are too tight. I use a buggered front short halfshaft that the splines have been sheared off. You take the threaded cap off, then the circlip off, then using the buggered front shaft carefully place it on the axle extending past the flange and pound it carefully inward with a hammer until you see/feel some resistance. Then pull the flange assembly away from the hub (you should get about 1/4" or so). Then put something small in the space between the flange and the hub, and tap in the axle with the buggered axle again until you run outta room again. Repeat the process with progressively larger things put in the space between the flange and the hub (I use progressively larger 1/4" sockets laying sideways), until the flange pops off.

This is much harder to explain than it is to do in real life. I can show you at the CC if interested.

Bill R.
Yup, that's what I was trying to explain..

It'll work, trust me! I've had to do it a couple times myself.

-John
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Old 02-13-2002, 01:17 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by roverhybrids
hey tomw
welcome newbie
Woohoo

So this is where everyone evacuated to!
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