Hey Strange Rover... - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

John Witherspoon · 02-13-2002, 06:12 AM

Strange,
If you recall, I've been posting, trying to get info for a hybrid rig. I really like the looks of what you've done. You said at one point that its a 70something bobbed frame RR. Is that right? did you shorten it to 88" wheelbase? I ask because I have a SIII 88" body and wonder about fitting it to something with a 100" wheelbase. My main question is what did you do about the driveshaft after shortening the frame? Did you go and just have it shortened? If so, how much did that cost (I'm assuming some fairly precision machining). If not, how did you work it? Just curious. ANy help would be mucho appreciated!

Spoon

RockRover · 02-13-2002, 11:51 AM

Cutting down a DL is cheap...AssUme $80...Cheaper if your know someone.

I'd research this conversion in depth before jumping into it Spoon. Not trying to dig ya' but if your asking questions on how much it cost to cut down a drive-shaft, then swapping a SIII body on another chassis might be an eye opener.

-Doug (trying to quit chewing tobacco...Can you tell?) Marbourg

Strange Rover · 02-13-2002, 07:47 PM

Nah, Its still 100in. I have only cut the chassis off behind the rear axle. With the 88in body and the 36in tyres the back of the body is level with back of the rear tyres and the front tyres poke out the front by about 1in. The motor and axles are in the stock locations and the radiator carnt fit in front of the motor as there is no room behing the grill so I will mount it else where.

Sam

ps. Doug M I just ordered my tyres same OD as yours. Long story but man am I gonna break some stuff now.

John Witherspoon · 02-14-2002, 06:51 AM

Hey,...
no offense taken. Quite honestly, this is gonna be my "maiden voyage" into the world of automotive butchery. That's why I'm asking so many dumb questions. I'd appreciate any and all advice, warnings etc. that the more experienced have to offer! I have the body, bud the frame is beyond rotten. I have no reservations against using LR stuff for the platform, other than the expense. I can get my hands on domestic stuff (scouts, broncos etc.) for practically nothing compared to the cost of getting a rover with a frame and then buying axles or components and upgrading. I guess economics are a major player in this project! I don't mind trial and error,...I'm just trying to compile info. to start with. Thanks!

Spoon

John Witherspoon · 02-14-2002, 12:11 PM

While I'm beggin for advice...,

One of the reasons for not wanting to use a series frame/platform(besides cost) is that the springs/shocks on the series models seem very limiting. I'd like to have something where a lot of articulation could be achieved...those little rover springs, even with parabolic, don't really tickle my fancy. Any advice or options there?

Thanks again,

Spoon

Strange Rover · 02-14-2002, 01:05 PM

Spoon,

The best thing about the series 3 body that you have is that it is so easy to mount on a different frame, the body is narrow, it has lots of flat panals (that can be covered in alloy checker plate), it gives you heaps of tyre clearance (if you cut the sheet metal) and is very light. I would put this body on whatever you can find.

The best thing about the rover coil frames is that they have coils and they are very strong and if you have evperience with setting up the suspension on them you can get lots of good travel (say to rti of 1000 on a 20deg) with little money. But like you say doing a rover drivetrain can be expensive (although in aus it is not)

After I get my hybred on the road we are going to put a swb series 3 body on a 100in scout 2 frame and drive train. And again this should be a fairly easy swap.

Sam

John Witherspoon · 02-14-2002, 01:58 PM

Strange,
I'm glad you mentioned that, because that is one of the donor vehicles I'm seriously considering...my question is this: On the RR you could shorten the frame behind the rear axle to take out length...on a scout II (one I looked at was a 72 model) the springs extend almost to the very ends of the frame rails...will you shorten in the middle?...and then shorten the drive shaft etc? I'm curious. Have you given this any thought? If you don't chop in the middle, what will you do to make the body work?

I bet you never thought you'd get bugged like this buy a guy in northwestern North Carolina did ya?

Thanks for all the hints!

Strange Rover · 02-14-2002, 09:17 PM

On the scout 2 chassis we are going to make it a tray back ute so we would shorten the tub right up to behind the seat box to reduce it to a cab only and then wack on a rear tray.

If you wanted to leave it as a style side ute or wagon then you really need to start with a lwb that you can shorten it to where you want it.

I think that if you used the swb body and sat the body back as far as you could and cut the scout chassis off behind the rear hangers you might only have about 3 to 4 in of chassis poking out the rear. If you made a rear step bumper and mounted the spare tyre and a jerry can then if would look all right. So maybe you can use the swb body on the 100in scout.

Il go and measure the scout length and the swb body also to see where it would come to.

Sam

John Witherspoon · 02-15-2002, 06:05 AM

Thanks for the effort,...

I'm sure I'll owe you some

if I'm ever in your neck of the woods. For now, you can put your fees on my tab

Thanks again, I do preciate it!

Spoon

RockRover · 02-15-2002, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Strange Rover

ps. Doug M I just ordered my tyres same OD as yours. Long story but man am I gonna break some stuff now.

ALRIGHT!!!! DEWED!!! I've got to get off my ass and start building! 42" Tires on a SERIES rig!! Man! I think I've died and gone to heaven!

How long to get them Sam?

Shiat! I just check my e-mail...I'll respond soon man!

--D

DougM · 02-15-2002, 09:54 PM

StrangeRover,

Hey, don't be hanging my handle on that tobacco chawin' Doug! I'm the original DougM and doing that does strange things to my double top secret personal Pirate thread scanner.....

evilfij · 02-15-2002, 10:01 PM

Rockrover has been Doug M since you could still buy a 90 with a stick new in the US

Strange Rover · 02-16-2002, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RockRover

ALRIGHT!!!! DEWED!!! I've got to get off my ass and start building! 42" Tires on a SERIES rig!! Man! I think I've died and gone to heaven!

How long to get them Sam?

Shiat! I just check my e-mail...I'll respond soon man!

--D

They should be here by the end of next week (say the 22nd feb). Im getting some bead locks on my 15in rims as well and they are all coming up from Sydney together.

Turns out that to get the 39.5s Id have to wait 14weeks for a new shipment and they have a couple of sets of 42s in stock so 42s it is.

I can almost here those d44s breaking now but Ill see how they go before I I spend more money on them and regear. If they dont handle the tyres then it will be time for some 60s.

Sam

bubs · 02-18-2002, 03:41 PM

sam - maybe you should get some of the new CTM's

Strange Rover · 02-18-2002, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bubs
sam - maybe you should get some of the new CTM's

Yes this is true. Although I think that I would swap the entire axles out (go dana60s) before I started to go to upgraded d44 stuff. The problem with going to bigger axles is that I am now commited to using 15in wheels with these tyres whereas the d60s and gm 14bolts run 16in wheels so to go to beefier axles I will need to do something with the bolt pattern.

Im just gonna run these tyres and see how they go. Im certain that what we wheel over here is a lot easier on the axles than what the US guys do. In the US they have trouble keeping upgraded rover axles together with 35s but here lots of guys run them with little problems. But I guess time will tell.

Sam

BJ On Roids · 02-20-2002, 03:10 PM

well, i reckon my cruiser axles with some sort of eliminator in the front would run them fine!!

so when ya need to sell.... tell me first, what stud pattern are your 15s? 5/6/8???

you will need to sell them cause you'll need 16.5s for your 14bolt and the 44s look better on 16.5s!!!

Strange Rover · 02-20-2002, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bj42
well, i reckon my cruiser axles with some sort of eliminator in the front would run them fine!!

so when ya need to sell.... tell me first, what stud pattern are your 15s? 5/6/8???

you will need to sell them cause you'll need 16.5s for your 14bolt and the 44s look better on 16.5s!!!

Shit I havent even got em yet.

They are 5 stud on 5.5in pcd. Same as a scout, F100, Bronco or Suzuki

Sam

RUFF · 02-21-2002, 12:58 AM

FWAHHH sam i will have to bring out Wes's suzuki and see what they look like on it.

Better get out that jigsaw

bubs · 02-21-2002, 03:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RUFF HILUX
FWAHHH sam i will have to bring out Wes's suzuki and see what they look like on it.

Better get out that jigsaw

300mm body lift

BJ On Roids · 02-21-2002, 08:29 PM

a suzuki with 42s

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

ok wll, ill wait for you to try them out first

02-13-2002, 06:12 AM	#1 (permalink)
John Witherspoon Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9359 Location: Jefferson, NC Posts: 17	Hey Strange Rover... Strange, If you recall, I've been posting, trying to get info for a hybrid rig. I really like the looks of what you've done. You said at one point that its a 70something bobbed frame RR. Is that right? did you shorten it to 88" wheelbase? I ask because I have a SIII 88" body and wonder about fitting it to something with a 100" wheelbase. My main question is what did you do about the driveshaft after shortening the frame? Did you go and just have it shortened? If so, how much did that cost (I'm assuming some fairly precision machining). If not, how did you work it? Just curious. ANy help would be mucho appreciated! Spoon __________________ I was just checkin out the in-line specs for the...rotary...girder...I'm retarded!

02-13-2002, 11:51 AM	#2 (permalink)
RockRover Rock God Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4101 Location: Santa Fe Posts: 2,232	Cutting down a DL is cheap...AssUme $80...Cheaper if your know someone. I'd research this conversion in depth before jumping into it Spoon. Not trying to dig ya' but if your asking questions on how much it cost to cut down a drive-shaft, then swapping a SIII body on another chassis might be an eye opener. -Doug (trying to quit chewing tobacco...Can you tell?) Marbourg __________________ Hendrix 'X' Chassis #006 http://www.hunt4steve.com/Doug.html

02-13-2002, 07:47 PM	#3 (permalink)
Strange Rover Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7962 Location: Australia Posts: 1,462	Nah, Its still 100in. I have only cut the chassis off behind the rear axle. With the 88in body and the 36in tyres the back of the body is level with back of the rear tyres and the front tyres poke out the front by about 1in. The motor and axles are in the stock locations and the radiator carnt fit in front of the motor as there is no room behing the grill so I will mount it else where. Sam ps. Doug M I just ordered my tyres same OD as yours. Long story but man am I gonna break some stuff now. __________________ Land Rover SIIa, 302W, NP435, NP205, MOG404s, 42in Swamper TSLs, 112in WB "An expert is somebody who learns more and more about less and less until one day they know absolutely everything about nothing." Outerlimits4x4.com - home of aussie rock crawling.

02-14-2002, 06:51 AM	#4 (permalink)
John Witherspoon Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9359 Location: Jefferson, NC Posts: 17	Rockrover Hey,... no offense taken. Quite honestly, this is gonna be my "maiden voyage" into the world of automotive butchery. That's why I'm asking so many dumb questions. I'd appreciate any and all advice, warnings etc. that the more experienced have to offer! I have the body, bud the frame is beyond rotten. I have no reservations against using LR stuff for the platform, other than the expense. I can get my hands on domestic stuff (scouts, broncos etc.) for practically nothing compared to the cost of getting a rover with a frame and then buying axles or components and upgrading. I guess economics are a major player in this project! I don't mind trial and error,...I'm just trying to compile info. to start with. Thanks! Spoon __________________ I was just checkin out the in-line specs for the...rotary...girder...I'm retarded!

02-14-2002, 12:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
John Witherspoon Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9359 Location: Jefferson, NC Posts: 17	While I'm beggin for advice..., One of the reasons for not wanting to use a series frame/platform(besides cost) is that the springs/shocks on the series models seem very limiting. I'd like to have something where a lot of articulation could be achieved...those little rover springs, even with parabolic, don't really tickle my fancy. Any advice or options there? Thanks again, Spoon __________________ I was just checkin out the in-line specs for the...rotary...girder...I'm retarded!

02-14-2002, 01:05 PM	#6 (permalink)
Strange Rover Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7962 Location: Australia Posts: 1,462	Spoon, The best thing about the series 3 body that you have is that it is so easy to mount on a different frame, the body is narrow, it has lots of flat panals (that can be covered in alloy checker plate), it gives you heaps of tyre clearance (if you cut the sheet metal) and is very light. I would put this body on whatever you can find. The best thing about the rover coil frames is that they have coils and they are very strong and if you have evperience with setting up the suspension on them you can get lots of good travel (say to rti of 1000 on a 20deg) with little money. But like you say doing a rover drivetrain can be expensive (although in aus it is not) After I get my hybred on the road we are going to put a swb series 3 body on a 100in scout 2 frame and drive train. And again this should be a fairly easy swap. Sam __________________ Land Rover SIIa, 302W, NP435, NP205, MOG404s, 42in Swamper TSLs, 112in WB "An expert is somebody who learns more and more about less and less until one day they know absolutely everything about nothing." Outerlimits4x4.com - home of aussie rock crawling.

02-14-2002, 01:58 PM	#7 (permalink)
John Witherspoon Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9359 Location: Jefferson, NC Posts: 17	Strange, I'm glad you mentioned that, because that is one of the donor vehicles I'm seriously considering...my question is this: On the RR you could shorten the frame behind the rear axle to take out length...on a scout II (one I looked at was a 72 model) the springs extend almost to the very ends of the frame rails...will you shorten in the middle?...and then shorten the drive shaft etc? I'm curious. Have you given this any thought? If you don't chop in the middle, what will you do to make the body work? I bet you never thought you'd get bugged like this buy a guy in northwestern North Carolina did ya? Thanks for all the hints! __________________ I was just checkin out the in-line specs for the...rotary...girder...I'm retarded!

02-14-2002, 09:17 PM	#8 (permalink)
Strange Rover Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Member # 7962 Location: Australia Posts: 1,462	On the scout 2 chassis we are going to make it a tray back ute so we would shorten the tub right up to behind the seat box to reduce it to a cab only and then wack on a rear tray. If you wanted to leave it as a style side ute or wagon then you really need to start with a lwb that you can shorten it to where you want it. I think that if you used the swb body and sat the body back as far as you could and cut the scout chassis off behind the rear hangers you might only have about 3 to 4 in of chassis poking out the rear. If you made a rear step bumper and mounted the spare tyre and a jerry can then if would look all right. So maybe you can use the swb body on the 100in scout. Il go and measure the scout length and the swb body also to see where it would come to. Sam __________________ Land Rover SIIa, 302W, NP435, NP205, MOG404s, 42in Swamper TSLs, 112in WB "An expert is somebody who learns more and more about less and less until one day they know absolutely everything about nothing." Outerlimits4x4.com - home of aussie rock crawling.

02-15-2002, 06:05 AM	#9 (permalink)
John Witherspoon Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9359 Location: Jefferson, NC Posts: 17	Thanks for the effort,... I'm sure I'll owe you some if I'm ever in your neck of the woods. For now, you can put your fees on my tab Thanks again, I do preciate it! Spoon __________________ I was just checkin out the in-line specs for the...rotary...girder...I'm retarded!

02-15-2002, 09:54 PM	#11 (permalink)
DougM Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Member # 4481 Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho Posts: 61	StrangeRover, Hey, don't be hanging my handle on that tobacco chawin' Doug! I'm the original DougM and doing that does strange things to my double top secret personal Pirate thread scanner..... __________________ 93 80 Series LandCruiser, dual lockers. 99 Montero, rear locker

02-15-2002, 10:01 PM	#12 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	Rockrover has been Doug M since you could still buy a 90 with a stick new in the US __________________ :evil:

02-18-2002, 03:41 PM	#14 (permalink)
bubs Rock God Join Date: Mar 2001 Member # 3715 Location: Queensland, Australia! Posts: 2,386	sam - maybe you should get some of the new CTM's __________________ 1994 Toyota Hilux Budscustoms - Australian Custom Parts & Fabrication http://www.budscustoms.com.au

02-20-2002, 03:10 PM	#16 (permalink)
BJ On Roids Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Member # 6588 Location: 'Straya....mate Posts: 7,434	well, i reckon my cruiser axles with some sort of eliminator in the front would run them fine!! so when ya need to sell.... tell me first, what stud pattern are your 15s? 5/6/8??? you will need to sell them cause you'll need 16.5s for your 14bolt and the 44s look better on 16.5s!!! __________________ [COLOR=yellow]Bj on Roids 1970FJ45, Quad Cam V8, Auto, Broken T-case, H-TEC (traction control and cutting brakes) 42 TSLs.[/COLOR] [COLOR=green][URL=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com]Aussie Wheelers Bulletin Board[/URL] [/COLOR] Last edited by BJ On Roids; 02-20-2002 at 03:15 PM.

02-21-2002, 12:58 AM	#18 (permalink)
RUFF Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8565 Location: Bris/Australia Posts: 1,661	FWAHHH sam i will have to bring out Wes's suzuki and see what they look like on it. Better get out that jigsaw __________________ www.outerlimits4x4.com www.werockaustralia.com SAVE THE HAMMERS Post #749 Do illiterate people get the full effect of Alphabet Soup? If electricity comes from electrons, does morality come from morons?

02-21-2002, 08:29 PM	#20 (permalink)
BJ On Roids Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Member # 6588 Location: 'Straya....mate Posts: 7,434	a suzuki with 42s BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA ok wll, ill wait for you to try them out first __________________ [COLOR=yellow]Bj on Roids 1970FJ45, Quad Cam V8, Auto, Broken T-case, H-TEC (traction control and cutting brakes) 42 TSLs.[/COLOR] [COLOR=green][URL=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com]Aussie Wheelers Bulletin Board[/URL] [/COLOR]

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