33" Swamper Fitting

[RVR OVR]

Just ordered a set of 33x12.5x15 swamper TSL's. Now, I simply have to worry about how I am going to get them to fit.

I already have the RT 3" kit with front radius arms and rear trailing links. I think I am fine as far as the front is concered, just a little trimming.

Now, for the rear, I think I need to get the RT a-arm extension to push the axle back a bit, then I can adjust the pinion angle to be correct easily since I have the RT links. Is there anything I am missing here, or perhaps is there and easier way? I don't want to do the ECR flares, as that will just add a lot more cost to the project.

97 Discovery Series I, by the way....

Tom

[road1will]

your logic for fitting them in the back doesnt work. the only way o move the rear axle backward without changing the pinion angle so that it points more downward is to move the spring mounts backwards on the frame AND lengthen the radius arms. you see, by adding the "longer" RT rear links you are making your pinion angle worse. them by adjusting the pinion angle so that it is good, you will have to shorten the arms. see what im saying (typing???)?

[RVR OVR]

I am following the logic in this post:

http://www.discoweb.org/fenderflares/index.htm

What I think the RT links buy me is adjustability.

http://www.discoweb.org/rte/7trailbushings.jpg

I can play around with the spacers until I get it correct. Right now, with my 32" swampers, there are no spacers in the links at all, and my pinion is just about right (not quite) with the rear CV. So, if I push the axle back about 3/4 - 1 inch, i could in effect insert spacers in the rear links to make it all shift the same way backwords and retain the rear angle. I don't think this will be enough force me to change the spring mounts on the axle. In all reality, i will even put less spacers in and hit the perfect angle for my CV shaft.

Whaddya think?

Tom

[RVR OVR]

almost forgot...

[road1will]

tom, that still doesnt work. think about it, you want whatever pinion angle you have now. by adding spacers to the links, all that does is move the axle back very slightly, and change your pinion angle. in order to mover the axle back 1", you would need to extend the arm a lot more than 1". this will push your pinion downwards, worsening your pinion angle. do you understand what im saying?

thing about it this way- because the trailing arm mount (on the axle) is below the centerline (to eliminate axle wrap), by lengthening the arms you are pushing on the lower half of the axle tube. therefore, you rotate it. you also move the axle back a little bit. and if you wanted to move the axle back 1", you would have to add more than 1" to the trailing arm because it is on an angle.

if you are already running 32s in back, i would bolt up the 33s and see how much room you have. remember, by increasing the diameter of the tire by one inch, you are increasing the radius by only half of an inch. so at the door, you will only have to gain a half an inch more clearance. so if i were you, i would just cut the freakin doors already!

[RockRover]

Yup...Mr. 9 Volt is right. You need to extend the upper link if you want to move the axle back AND keep the pinion angle correct. I think RT sells a relocation piece for just that.

--D

[roverhybrids]

you fawkers need to read the original post before replying

Tom,
I think Alan Stuarts pics with the disco 2 flares
looks very clean and he has 33" MTR's. so I say do what he did.

[marty]

Tom

If you do go with the "A" arm extension, you'll also have to move the spring perch on the axel the same distance foward so as not to twist up the spring.

The A Arm extension is $140 and by the time you move the spring perchs, deal with pinion angles and driveline problems, it would be a lot easier to buy the flares from ECR, cut the doors and then you'll be good for 35's.

Marty
just my two cents

[RVR OVR]

Now I am thoroughly confused.



I am planning on getting the RT a-arm extension, and use this in conjunction with my rear links to get everything all set. So, it sounds like a good plan?

I just don't wanna cut the doors that much where I will need an ECR type flair or have to worry about water coming in.. I am not shy about hacking the fenders at all.

Tom

[GRNRVR]

Tom,

Lift the rear of the truck up and support it by the frame. Put the spacers on the arms so that you get the tire where you want it and then with the A-arm disconnected move the axle till you get the pinion right and then you can figure out how long the A-arm extension needs to be. I will say this though.. Good luck getting those bolts off.. John and Drew couldn't even get mine to move at all... Blow torch, hammering, every thing that we could think of short of cutting them off and the damn bolts didn't move at all.. I'm going to order new bolts and just cut the old ones out... Worse case if your spring perches are at a really bad angle you can always put a wedge under them so that they sit flat again. I guess every one just read the space the links part and skimmed over the a-arm part...

Oh and since everybody loves newbie's so much for at the puter

[GRNRVR]

Also you aren't trying to move it a foot back you probably only need 1/2 and inch to an 1 inch of spacer on the trailing link and maybe the same on the A-arm.. You are running no spacers just like I am right now aren't you?

[RVR OVR]

correct, no spacers at all. i would think that the setting i have right now with no spacers brings the axle forward from stock about the same amount i want to push it back.

the seventh picture down on this site shows how close i am now with my 32" swampers.

http://tompearson.net/bumperslider/bumper_pics.htm

these are 32.3" tall, the 33's are 33.7". so, i am pretty close to making it how it is setup right now, so i think i only need a small adjustment. i figured i might as well get the CV lined up perfect at the same time and it is worth it to solve both problems.

tom

[evilfij]

It sounds like a plan Tom.

From where I see it you will want to space the A frame slightly more than you space the trailing arms.

This will put the pinion more pointed toward the t-case to give you the ideal angle for a cv rear DS.

If your spring perches are too messed up I would think you could just use two tapered washers, one thicker than the other, to correct that problem.

Ron

[RVR OVR]

Thanks for the help, guys.

Marty - have you got your flares on yet? Got any pics? The only gripe I have about the ECR flares is that they are not plastic-type stuff. I would much rather have that than either shiny black or something I would have to spend $$$ to have painted, when I know I will just bash them up.

I hope ECR hears and comes up with a plastic-type solution. While they are at it, if they come up with some lower body plastic stuff like on the Grand Cherokee's that would be swell, too!

Tom

[GRNRVR]

Tom, I don't know how much they cost but, on Discoweb (which I think that you have seen this already) but, a guy took Disco 2 fender flares and put them on his Disco 1 and it looks pretty nice.. Much better then other flares that I have seen and I think that he is running 33s as well.. I liked the way it looked..

[road1will]

FWIW ECR does NOT make their own flares... they have a deal with a place in AU to market them as their own. just FYI.

[RVR OVR]

Ah, like ashcroft. At least I have relatives in AU, so if I want them I will probably use the power of the american dollar and purchase direct from who sells them for a much lower price.

GRNRVR - Yeah, I saw the Disco II ones. Those look great. However, if I do everything right, I may not need them. Have to wait and see....

Tom

[madcowdungbeetle]

An idea I had the other day, not sure if it would work, would be to get some Bushwacker, OE style, or Extend-a-Flares for something like an 80's Full Size Bronco, or some other truck and see how easily they could be modified for use on the Disco. I like the way they look, and they don't require painting, and they look stronger than those ECR flares, whether they really are I have no idea.

-
Jon

[GRNRVR]

Tom, a 1 3/4 inch body lift would help to... At least then you wouldn't have to worry about the tires rubbing the upper lip of the wheel well.. I'm planning on doing that when I get my drive train upgraded enough to handle 35s.

Brain, do you break axles and CVs often running those 35s? I'm wondering if it is even worth upgrading the axles with GBR stuff or just replacing the whole damn things.. If the GBR stuff hold up relativly well then I would rather do that but, if they break often then it would just be a waste of money.. I figure you would be the best person to ask.. JBS's Disco was looking sweettt when I was down there a couple of weeks ago..

[road1will]

brian was breaking a ton of shit with 33s.... with 35s he will need to tow a friggin trailer full of parts everywhere he goes

[RVR OVR]

Yeah, John at RoverTym recommended a body lift to me. He now makes a 2" kit. I would like to avoid it if I could for no other reason than time and money.

The lure of 35's is strong, but not strong enough for me. I a few years, I will go that route. I am slowly growing into them, I guess.

Tom

[marty]

Tom

I just got the flares this weekend and I probably won't be installing them for a few weeks. I don't know if ECR will have these in a rubber compund since they source them out from another vendor, so they get what they sell.

One solution to breaking them, is to have your tires protrude slightly past the flares, this will give some protection from trees and rock ledges. As soon as I get them installed I'll post some pictures. I saw the DiscoProject truck and it really does look good with the flares. They didn't have the 35's on when I was up there but there is a whole lot of room in the wheel wells now.

Marty

[SeaRover]

i've been researching the flares for along time now. ECR imports their flares from an outfit called Rangie Spares, and they are indeed in Oz.

A body lift and these flares will let you fit 35's, and in fact is exactly what I have planned.

rangie spares quoted me ~215US for a set of the flares. ECR's 325 price is about right once you add in shipping and their (small prolly) profit margin.

Unless you know of a cheap way to import something from Oz, ECR's price is more than fair for both the value and convenience. plus they seem to be nice guys -

my problem is that they don't import the flares for RRC's yet.

For some pics of the flares, have a look-see at all the rangies at

http://www.outbackchallenge.com.au

cheers w/

-isaac