3.9, 4.0, 4.6 or 350 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

boxerhips · 02-27-2002, 10:34 PM

Hello all ! First post. I have a 1995 disco that has a bad block (burns antifreeze). I have been thinking about my options and can't decide what to do. #1 used 3.9 ($1100.00), #2 used 4.2($1500.00), #3 new 3.9, 4.0, 4.6 ($2600-$3200.00) 4.0 has the correct cam , #4 chevy 350 vortec (no dist ) and trans($2000.00 for 1998 rolled truck, $1000.00 for motor mounts and trans to transfer adapter, plus $1000.00 ?, and two weeks), #5 ford 5.0ho and aod ($1500.00 for adapter trans to transfer, make my own motor mounts, plus $1000.00 ? ) I have the ford 5.0 and aod. I use the disco mostly as daily driver but will never pass up the chance to making a mess (mud). Looking for input Thanks Tim

evilfij · 02-27-2002, 11:04 PM

New 4.0 blocks are like CHEAP from the dealer.

~1200 I think

Personally I think the 4.6 is the way to go but that is going to cost you

Ron

Serious One · 02-28-2002, 12:24 AM

two options really.

1. expensive

2. MORE expensive

Personally, if I were starting from scratch I'd do the 350. In the long run it'll be less problematic and a bit less expensive to maintain.

IF you're looking for bolt-in simplicity, I'd go for a 4.2. I've done this conversion in my '90 RR and it is really nice. If you do the 4.2, go for the 4:11 gears as well. We have that set up in our LWB and that's the best package by far (IMO). We're running 235/75/16 Dunlop Radial Rover R/T's.

Later,

Michael

Diesel Jim · 02-28-2002, 01:21 AM

are you sure the block is duff? maybe it's just a headgasket?

would save you lots of $$$$

Jamie

offroadr35 · 02-28-2002, 06:41 AM

5.0 HO, i love the one in my bronco. seems like it will run forever. can be easily modified for as much torque or hp that you want. and if you've already got it i say go for it.

-Steve

RockRover · 02-28-2002, 07:08 AM

I'm with Jamie...It's the head gasket. A well maintained 3.9 can go 200k miles easy. Just replace/upgrade to the "new" composite gaskets and your good to go.

--D

boxerhips · 02-28-2002, 07:37 PM

thanks for input so far x far (haha) head gasket was replaced and the heads were pressure tested. I was told by many that it could not be the block, so like a knuckle head I repalced the heads with a new set, guess what not the heads. So after new heads, bolts and gaskets $$$$ same problem. If would have known 5.0 or 350 would be in !! Does anybody know if a 5.0 to rover adapter is available ?

road1will · 02-28-2002, 07:44 PM

454!!! get a factory one and you will be blown away by the powah

but then again you will have to change transmissions/axles to do that... so i change my vote to slightly modded 350!

Fear Factory · 02-28-2002, 09:31 PM

I like the 4.2L the best of all the rover petrol motors and it will be a bolt in operation. The 4.2s have better breathing heads than the 3.9 and you can put the 4.2 prom in your ECU for $10 or so and be good.

We did a 4.2 w/R380 in an 88 RR with 4.10s and 35s, now that was a great setup! Oh yeah you can get the Euro RR downpipes, they have 2 tubes that come down each side and have no silly cats in them. All you have to do is weld in a bung for the O2 sensors.

evilfij · 02-28-2002, 09:36 PM

Why are you all so gung ho on the 4.2?

It has to be the least reliable long term of the bunch plus they are not cheap new?

I am just curious?

Ron

Fear Factory · 02-28-2002, 11:40 PM

I'm not gung ho on the 4.2 I dislike petrol motors for trucks. Given the choices though the 4.2 looks like the easiest swap along with an increase in power and torque. I guess I should have said put a 300 Tdi in there.

boxerhips · 03-01-2002, 10:15 PM

thanks for input so far x far (haha) head gasket was replaced and the heads were pressure tested. I was told by many that it could not be the block, so like a knuckle head I repalced the heads with a new set, guess what not the heads. So after new heads, bolts and gaskets $$$$ same problem. If would have known 5.0 or 350 would be in !! Does anybody know if a 5.0 to rover adapter is available ?

mmcnay · 03-02-2002, 08:33 AM

Why not change to the LR diesel, better range, reliability and more torque? Cost is about 5k if you user LR North.

road1will · 03-02-2002, 09:40 AM

THE 300TDI SUCKS ASS DONT SWAP

thank you for your time.

Rover Addiction · 03-02-2002, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 9-Volt
THE 300TDI SUCKS ASS DONT SWAP

thank you for your time.

OUCH!!!

Why don't you tell us how you really feel!?!

I actually have one of each and it depends on how you drive, what you want to do with the truck, and personal preferences.

But then, isn't what this is all about anyway??

Honestly, I like my 3.9 with the rimmer because it hauls when I want it to. I like my 300 Tdi because it goes, sips fuel, smokes out tailgating A$$%oles, and makes no excuses for not winning the stoplight drag. Both have their place.

If I had a choice and wanted gas, personally, I'd do a 4.6 because I like my rover to be a rover (I know, Buick) Given the option for the same cost and fab time, I would seriously consider a mild 350 because they're right, cubes matter. I'd rather have a fuelie than a carb though given the choice.

Ahh.. what to do, what to do... I dunno.

Probably didn't help any, but oh well..

-John

western110 · 03-02-2002, 11:16 AM

Lets see,

Rover V8 was a Buick, but this runs gas. Rover diesel's are not V8 (exept for the Iceburg and that never made it to production). Ah ha, Buick part of GM, GM has V8 diesel. That's it GM 6.2 or 6.5 diesel goes into Rover

. I'll go hide now as I'm sure someone or some group will take exeption to this.

Andrew

road1will · 03-02-2002, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by western110
Lets see,

Rover V8 was a Buick, but this runs gas. Rover diesel's are not V8 (exept for the Iceburg and that never made it to production). Ah ha, Buick part of GM, GM has V8 diesel. That's it GM 6.2 or 6.5 diesel goes into Rover . I'll go hide now as I'm sure someone or some group will take exeption to this.

Andrew

that would be great except that the 6.2/6.5 diesels sucked. you want a real diesel swap in a 3.9l inline 4 cummins turbo. 300lbft @1800 plues kick ASS fuel economy.

Old Scout · 03-02-2002, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 9-Volt

that would be great except that the 6.2/6.5 diesels sucked. you want a real diesel swap in a 3.9l inline 4 cummins turbo. 300lbft @1800 plues kick ASS fuel economy.

http://cgi2.x-pointcgi.com/~dieselrepower/Scout_4B.html

road1will · 03-02-2002, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Old Scout

http://cgi2.x-pointcgi.com/~dieselrepower/Scout_4B.html

yup. now THATS a good diesel motor to swap.

Old Scout · 03-02-2002, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 9-Volt

yup. now THATS a good diesel motor to swap.

Come awn the rover axles would never handle it!

road1will · 03-02-2002, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Old Scout

Come awn the rover axles would never handle it!

rover axles never could handle anything so why would it matter

if you can break em with a 60hp 2.25l petrol, you can break em with anything!

mmcnay · 03-02-2002, 08:34 PM

Sorry for upsetting some of you, after all I am just a fu**ing newbie. In my newbie status, I just found all of the options somewhat unacceptable and cheep. If you are looking for long range and lots O torque than it needs to be diesel. If you want a LR to haul ass then it needs to be either a big Roll's or American V8 or V10 (not a little V8 Buick that worked well in a Vega).

What might be interesting is a Rover hybrid. Those electric motors give dam near full torque at 0 RPM and the gas/diesel electric gets great range/mileage. Maybe we could all learn something from Southern Pacific and the rest of the Railroads?

Well it might be interesting to hear what the priorities are and then someone other than a newbie could give a solid recommendation.

Anyway, I am sorry for being a newbie.

Mason
Sacramento, CA
96 Disco
Corvair Dunebuggy

western110 · 03-03-2002, 12:28 AM

Diesel electric or just electric is not a bad idea. I've often thought that if I was into the wacky extreme rock stuff this would make way more sense. It seems to me that some of the trials are short enough and with the 100% torque at 0 rpm an electric 4x4 would kick some ass. Heck you could do away with the axles all to gether and have a motor at each hub, the wieght savings would allow a load of batts to power the rig and no screwing with lockers and other shit. I even have a master plan in the works for a diesel electric hybrid 110 but it will take sometime before I can under take it. What I have in mind is for more of a street rig but once my diesel conversion is done I'll think more about it.

road1will · 03-03-2002, 08:14 AM

electric??? been done in a SIIA 88". look in your back issues of four wheeler.

ive met the guy who did it- great fella and full of info.

western110 · 03-03-2002, 09:21 AM

Yep, I've seen it and had a look at the web site. My idea is to build a Rover like the British Military experimented with in the 60's. It would drive totally on Batt or the main engine. As for a rock crawler, the 88" still had the trans and axles. Not bad though ditching those would be a major step foward (Really Expensive to!).

02-27-2002, 10:34 PM	#1 (permalink)
boxerhips Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10336 Location: washington dc Posts: 31	3.9, 4.0, 4.6 or 350 Hello all ! First post. I have a 1995 disco that has a bad block (burns antifreeze). I have been thinking about my options and can't decide what to do. #1 used 3.9 ($1100.00), #2 used 4.2($1500.00), #3 new 3.9, 4.0, 4.6 ($2600-$3200.00) 4.0 has the correct cam , #4 chevy 350 vortec (no dist ) and trans($2000.00 for 1998 rolled truck, $1000.00 for motor mounts and trans to transfer adapter, plus $1000.00 ?, and two weeks), #5 ford 5.0ho and aod ($1500.00 for adapter trans to transfer, make my own motor mounts, plus $1000.00 ? ) I have the ford 5.0 and aod. I use the disco mostly as daily driver but will never pass up the chance to making a mess (mud). Looking for input Thanks Tim

02-27-2002, 11:04 PM	#2 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	New 4.0 blocks are like CHEAP from the dealer. ~1200 I think Personally I think the 4.6 is the way to go but that is going to cost you Ron __________________ :evil:

02-28-2002, 07:08 AM	#6 (permalink)
RockRover Rock God Join Date: Apr 2001 Member # 4101 Location: Santa Fe Posts: 2,232	I'm with Jamie...It's the head gasket. A well maintained 3.9 can go 200k miles easy. Just replace/upgrade to the "new" composite gaskets and your good to go. --D __________________ Hendrix 'X' Chassis #006 http://www.hunt4steve.com/Doug.html

02-28-2002, 07:37 PM	#7 (permalink)
boxerhips Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10336 Location: washington dc Posts: 31	more thanks for input so far x far (haha) head gasket was replaced and the heads were pressure tested. I was told by many that it could not be the block, so like a knuckle head I repalced the heads with a new set, guess what not the heads. So after new heads, bolts and gaskets $$$$ same problem. If would have known 5.0 or 350 would be in !! Does anybody know if a 5.0 to rover adapter is available ?

02-28-2002, 09:36 PM	#10 (permalink)
evilfij Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Member # 7755 Location: Main Line PA Posts: 1,953	Why are you all so gung ho on the 4.2? It has to be the least reliable long term of the bunch plus they are not cheap new? I am just curious? Ron __________________ :evil:

02-28-2002, 12:24 AM	#3 (permalink)
Serious One Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8768 Location: Utahr Posts: 4,054	two options really. 1. expensive 2. MORE expensive Personally, if I were starting from scratch I'd do the 350. In the long run it'll be less problematic and a bit less expensive to maintain. IF you're looking for bolt-in simplicity, I'd go for a 4.2. I've done this conversion in my '90 RR and it is really nice. If you do the 4.2, go for the 4:11 gears as well. We have that set up in our LWB and that's the best package by far (IMO). We're running 235/75/16 Dunlop Radial Rover R/T's. Later, Michael

02-28-2002, 01:21 AM	#4 (permalink)
Diesel Jim Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9426 Location: a word to describe where something is Posts: 364	are you sure the block is duff? maybe it's just a headgasket? would save you lots of $$$$ Jamie

02-28-2002, 06:41 AM	#5 (permalink)
offroadr35 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8843 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,838	5.0 HO, i love the one in my bronco. seems like it will run forever. can be easily modified for as much torque or hp that you want. and if you've already got it i say go for it. -Steve

02-28-2002, 07:44 PM	#8 (permalink)
road1will Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8871 Location: Cleveland Tennessee Posts: 3,344	454!!! get a factory one and you will be blown away by the powah but then again you will have to change transmissions/axles to do that... so i change my vote to slightly modded 350!

02-28-2002, 09:31 PM	#9 (permalink)
Fear Factory Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9448 Location: Kansas City/Belton Posts: 412	I like the 4.2L the best of all the rover petrol motors and it will be a bolt in operation. The 4.2s have better breathing heads than the 3.9 and you can put the 4.2 prom in your ECU for $10 or so and be good. We did a 4.2 w/R380 in an 88 RR with 4.10s and 35s, now that was a great setup! Oh yeah you can get the Euro RR downpipes, they have 2 tubes that come down each side and have no silly cats in them. All you have to do is weld in a bung for the O2 sensors.

02-28-2002, 11:40 PM	#11 (permalink)
Fear Factory Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9448 Location: Kansas City/Belton Posts: 412	I'm not gung ho on the 4.2 I dislike petrol motors for trucks. Given the choices though the 4.2 looks like the easiest swap along with an increase in power and torque. I guess I should have said put a 300 Tdi in there.

03-01-2002, 10:15 PM	#12 (permalink)
boxerhips Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10336 Location: washington dc Posts: 31	more thanks for input so far x far (haha) head gasket was replaced and the heads were pressure tested. I was told by many that it could not be the block, so like a knuckle head I repalced the heads with a new set, guess what not the heads. So after new heads, bolts and gaskets $$$$ same problem. If would have known 5.0 or 350 would be in !! Does anybody know if a 5.0 to rover adapter is available ?

03-02-2002, 08:33 AM	#13 (permalink)
mmcnay Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Member # 10384 Location: Sacramento Posts: 5	Why not change to the LR diesel, better range, reliability and more torque? Cost is about 5k if you user LR North.

03-02-2002, 09:40 AM	#14 (permalink)
road1will Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8871 Location: Cleveland Tennessee Posts: 3,344	THE 300TDI SUCKS ASS DONT SWAP thank you for your time.

03-02-2002, 11:16 AM	#16 (permalink)
western110 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9615 Location: Calgary Posts: 94	Lets see, Rover V8 was a Buick, but this runs gas. Rover diesel's are not V8 (exept for the Iceburg and that never made it to production). Ah ha, Buick part of GM, GM has V8 diesel. That's it GM 6.2 or 6.5 diesel goes into Rover . I'll go hide now as I'm sure someone or some group will take exeption to this. Andrew

03-02-2002, 08:34 PM	#22 (permalink)
mmcnay Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Member # 10384 Location: Sacramento Posts: 5	lets go electric Sorry for upsetting some of you, after all I am just a fu**ing newbie. In my newbie status, I just found all of the options somewhat unacceptable and cheep. If you are looking for long range and lots O torque than it needs to be diesel. If you want a LR to haul ass then it needs to be either a big Roll's or American V8 or V10 (not a little V8 Buick that worked well in a Vega). What might be interesting is a Rover hybrid. Those electric motors give dam near full torque at 0 RPM and the gas/diesel electric gets great range/mileage. Maybe we could all learn something from Southern Pacific and the rest of the Railroads? Well it might be interesting to hear what the priorities are and then someone other than a newbie could give a solid recommendation. Anyway, I am sorry for being a newbie. Mason Sacramento, CA 96 Disco Corvair Dunebuggy

03-03-2002, 12:28 AM	#23 (permalink)
western110 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9615 Location: Calgary Posts: 94	Diesel electric or just electric is not a bad idea. I've often thought that if I was into the wacky extreme rock stuff this would make way more sense. It seems to me that some of the trials are short enough and with the 100% torque at 0 rpm an electric 4x4 would kick some ass. Heck you could do away with the axles all to gether and have a motor at each hub, the wieght savings would allow a load of batts to power the rig and no screwing with lockers and other shit. I even have a master plan in the works for a diesel electric hybrid 110 but it will take sometime before I can under take it. What I have in mind is for more of a street rig but once my diesel conversion is done I'll think more about it.

03-03-2002, 08:14 AM	#24 (permalink)
road1will Registered User Join Date: Dec 2001 Member # 8871 Location: Cleveland Tennessee Posts: 3,344	electric??? been done in a SIIA 88". look in your back issues of four wheeler. ive met the guy who did it- great fella and full of info.

03-03-2002, 09:21 AM	#25 (permalink)
western110 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Member # 9615 Location: Calgary Posts: 94	Yep, I've seen it and had a look at the web site. My idea is to build a Rover like the British Military experimented with in the 60's. It would drive totally on Batt or the main engine. As for a rock crawler, the 88" still had the trans and axles. Not bad though ditching those would be a major step foward (Really Expensive to!).

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