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Old 11-29-2005, 07:52 AM   #1 (permalink)
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"69 ex-British military Series IIA won't start

Ok, so just bought my first Landy on Sunday and I have run into a problem. I found out that my fuel guage wasn't accurate about the time that I ran out of gasoline. I put 20 litres into the fuel tank and tried to start her, but she wouldn't start. I got her to cough a few times, but she would never catch. My 1SG came out to rescue me and he happens to be a pretty good mechanic on old American military vehicles, so he tried putting gasoline directly into the carb, which did nothing. Any suggestions? I'min the Army currently stationed in Germany, if that matters. Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2005, 07:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Check the spark, check that the fuel is pumping through when you crank, etc... It is no different from any other vehicle in this respect.

If no spark check all the wiring inside the distributor, can perish over time. And the points gap. From what you say it sounds like it may be a spark problem.

If fuel problems check filter, see if the ring of screws on the fuel pump are tight, and if all that is good take the top off the fuel pump (same screws) and check the diaphragm is OK.
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Old 11-29-2005, 09:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Also check to make sure that your HT lead from the distributor to the coil is connected b/c sometimes it likes to fall off the coil.
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Old 11-29-2005, 11:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Also check to make sure that your HT lead from the distributor to the coil is connected b/c sometimes it likes to fall off the coil.
And the primary wires as well-had one come off on the Garden State Parkway. New Jersey drivers aren't very tolerant of such things.

The fuel pump has a lever to allow you to prime the carburetor-as you've run out of fuel, this might be a good idea.
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Old 12-02-2005, 05:50 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Garden State Parkway? You a Jerseyite, PTSchram? What exit you from?

Kiddin man... deep dark secret of mine - lived in WA and ID for 5yrs, but born and raised in NJ for 20 before I escaped. Exit 109, LOL
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Old 12-04-2005, 09:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Got her to fire with a new (used) coil off of a VW Golf. In the process of making the replacement the condensor wire broke at the condensor. Tried to find a new one but the Auto Pride (read generic Auto Zone with half the customer service) didn't have anything in stock and didn't know where I could find one. She ran for about 30 seconds then died and wouldn't start again. I did a circuit test to determine that there was current running through the coil and replaced the positive wire because it was loose. Checked the fuel pump and saw that it was pumping fuel. Then I pulled the spark plugs and saw that they were wet. Cleaned them off one at a time so I didn't get the order mixed up, and tried hooking each up to the spark plug wire and couldn't get a spark.

I am now going to purchase a new coil, condensor, distributor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. If that doesn't work then I am completely lost.

If anyone has anymore ideas I am all ears.
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Got her to fire with a new (used) coil off of a VW Golf. In the process of making the replacement the condensor wire broke at the condensor. Tried to find a new one but the Auto Pride (read generic Auto Zone with half the customer service) didn't have anything in stock and didn't know where I could find one. She ran for about 30 seconds then died and wouldn't start again. I did a circuit test to determine that there was current running through the coil and replaced the positive wire because it was loose. Checked the fuel pump and saw that it was pumping fuel. Then I pulled the spark plugs and saw that they were wet. Cleaned them off one at a time so I didn't get the order mixed up, and tried hooking each up to the spark plug wire and couldn't get a spark.

I am now going to purchase a new coil, condensor, distributor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs. If that doesn't work then I am completely lost.

If anyone has anymore ideas I am all ears.

Something that is very common is for the distributor wires to lose their insulation and/or corrode. I have fixed a lot of seemingly dead distributors, just by replacing the wires with modern plastic insulated stuff.

Golfs breed like rabbits over here don't they...
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Old 12-05-2005, 01:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Worth checkin that the low tension from coil and supply to the coil are on the correct terminals on the coil, if you wire it backwards you get a rubbish spark.
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I replaced the coil, spark plugs and wires, and she still won't start. I have heard that running an engine without a condenser will burn out the points really fast. She ran for about 30 seconds without a condenser last week but hasn't started since. What do you guys (and gals) think??
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Old 12-07-2005, 02:32 AM   #10 (permalink)
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ok - to get an engine to run you need fuel, air, compression and a spark and all at the right time. But working blind we be just grabbin' at straws.
so.....did the motor run ok 'till it ran out of fuel ? if it did, when you refilled the fuel did you do anything else or just try to start it? if not your looking at a fuel problem, because the chances of running out of fuel and som'it breaking at the same time is fairly thin. If when you take the fuel pipe of the carb and crank do you get a good flow of fuel? if not then you have got dirt in the fuel lines, is there a glass optic type filter on the bulkhead, these have a fine brass mesh in the top that blocks easily and if the glass bulb is not tight then they suck air rather than fuel. What type of carb is fitted? If it is a solex or SU, both normally have a fine mesh filter in the inlet banjo, check it's there and clean, if it's not there then you need to think about pulling the carb down an cleaning the float chamber and jets and drillings, because any dirt in there can cause flooding or starvation. When you are happy that the fuel system is ok then you need to move on to the electrickery, do you have a good spark at the plugs when cranking? if not why not and sort. has the dizzy been moved/slipped/loose if it has reset the timing. if this don't work it's gettin kind of hard to fix over the net so go see the 4th king's own royal borders who are out there at the moment and get them to fix it for a few beers !!
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Old 12-07-2005, 04:12 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummer12345
I replaced the coil, spark plugs and wires, and she still won't start. I have heard that running an engine without a condenser will burn out the points really fast. She ran for about 30 seconds without a condenser last week but hasn't started since. What do you guys (and gals) think??
You replaced all that but not the points and condenser???

Did you check the coil and distributor wiring???
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ibex
ok - to get an engine to run you need fuel, air, compression and a spark and all at the right time. But working blind we be just grabbin' at straws.
so.....did the motor run ok 'till it ran out of fuel ? if it did, when you refilled the fuel did you do anything else or just try to start it? if not your looking at a fuel problem, because the chances of running out of fuel and som'it breaking at the same time is fairly thin. If when you take the fuel pipe of the carb and crank do you get a good flow of fuel? if not then you have got dirt in the fuel lines, is there a glass optic type filter on the bulkhead, these have a fine brass mesh in the top that blocks easily and if the glass bulb is not tight then they suck air rather than fuel. What type of carb is fitted? If it is a solex or SU, both normally have a fine mesh filter in the inlet banjo, check it's there and clean, if it's not there then you need to think about pulling the carb down an cleaning the float chamber and jets and drillings, because any dirt in there can cause flooding or starvation. When you are happy that the fuel system is ok then you need to move on to the electrickery, do you have a good spark at the plugs when cranking? if not why not and sort. has the dizzy been moved/slipped/loose if it has reset the timing. if this don't work it's gettin kind of hard to fix over the net so go see the 4th king's own royal borders who are out there at the moment and get them to fix it for a few beers !!
The engine ran great until it ran out of fuel, at least I think that is what happened. Again, the needle was above where it had been when I purchased the vehicle when the engine died. I am starting to think that fuel wasn't the problem. At any rate I have checked on the fuel flow and it is good, at least the same as my 1970 VW Beetle. I will check on that bulkhead fuel filter though. There is a fuel filter just before the carb that is getting good flow. Will also check the carb to see if there is any dirt in there. When I pulled the old plugs out they were wet with gasoline, not all they wet but you could see and smell it good.

I have not been getting a spark when I pull the plugs and hook them up to the wire and hit the starter, that is what led me to believe that the points are bad. I have replaced everything that I could get my hands on here at the German auto place. I have place an order for a condenser and new points from British Atlantic in NY.

I did call about who was training here at Baumholder and it isn't the Brits unfortunatly. I am calling around though.
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUZUROVER
You replaced all that but not the points and condenser???

Did you check the coil and distributor wiring???
I replaced the entire coil, spark plugs, and spark plug wires. I couldn't find a condenser nor points at the local auto place. I do have them on order now though.
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:36 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drummer12345



I did call about who was training here at Baumholder and it isn't the Brits unfortunatly. I am calling around though.
Baumholder? My dad was stationed there 40 (er, 50) years ago. He and my mother used to laugh about the drive down the mountain!

Sounds to me as though the distributor is your issue here. Good thing they're easy to work with. Using your ohmmeter, take at a look at the points to see if they are opening and closing the circuit as necessary. With a Series truck, this is pretty easy to do with the crank.

PT

oh yeah, I'm not from NJ, just driving through while bringing my truck home from the port.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:17 PM   #15 (permalink)
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We got her to start last night. Made some adjustments to the points, which need to be replaced soon. Also spent some time tapping on the carb to see if the float was stuck. Today I am ordering points from the local auto store and pay way too much for them, then tonight I will take off and clean the fuel filter attached to the fuel pump and take off and clean the carb. Hopefully that will resolve the situation. Thanks for all of the help.
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Old 12-08-2005, 01:45 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Glad you got it to start. If you are at Baumholder then you are only 150km from me (Karlsruhe). If you ever get stuck with something on the IIA and need a hand I am happy to help out.
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Old 12-08-2005, 02:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Glad you got it to start. If you are at Baumholder then you are only 150km from me (Karlsruhe). If you ever get stuck with something on the IIA and need a hand I am happy to help out.
I will definitely keep you in mind. I'm sure that I'll get stuck again sometime in the near future and need some help.
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Old 12-09-2005, 05:40 AM   #18 (permalink)
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I will definitely keep you in mind. I'm sure that I'll get stuck again sometime in the near future and need some help.
When you get it going properly you will have to take it to the offroad park in Saverne (France). Just about the only place to go wheeling nearby.
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