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Old 02-05-2006, 12:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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On topic with the Carnage and a question thread, I am putting on some new traling arms that Keith a-la Rovertracks built for me. Nothing real special about them, other than the mounts--they are designed to give the ultimate in wheelbase adjustability. They are bolt on (after all factory mounts are cut off, and new holes are drilled). When I need to lengthen the wheelbase more than the thread at the heim joints will allow, I just unbolt, move a couple of notches, drill new holes, and there it is. Granted, it would have been a lot less time consuming to just weld the mounts to the frame, but oh well. Still a fun project.

The material is 1.75 .25 wall DOM, with a bend for clearance.
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Old 02-05-2006, 12:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Frame prepped--the only thing not done here is the sleeve for the 3/4" bolt that holds the heim joint. The sleeve was made from 1" thin wall tubing and welded into the frame. The large hole that is vertically centered was there--it is on the outside only.

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Old 02-05-2006, 12:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the frame bracket

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Old 02-05-2006, 12:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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drilling a pilot hole for the through bolt on the inside of the frame, with a neat setup from Keith.

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Old 02-05-2006, 12:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I expected it to be pretty easy to drill the 3/8" holes through the frame, but it turned out to be a bitch. I broke a bunch of drill bits!! I don't think it would have been possible without a body lift. it was tight.

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Old 02-05-2006, 12:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
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complete.

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Old 02-05-2006, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I really like the idea of moving the arm mounts up and out of the way, mine are getting beat up. How thick is the plate section that makes up the outer part of the bracket?
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Old 02-05-2006, 03:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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the bracket is 3/16". the through bolt is 3/4" mounted in double sheer
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Old 02-05-2006, 03:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstar
the bracket is 3/16". the through bolt is 3/4" mounted in double sheer
Awsome. Can't believe the bit issue. Not like the frame is that thick.

Is there a plate on the indise of the frame?
Do the bracket bolts go all the way through the frame?
Did you sleave the bracket bolts also?

Pete
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Old 02-05-2006, 08:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloharover
Awsome. Can't believe the bit issue. Not like the frame is that thick.

Is there a plate on the indise of the frame?
Do the bracket bolts go all the way through the frame?
Did you sleave the bracket bolts also?

Pete
There is a second layer of something at the top--that's where all the bits broke. The bracket bolts do go all the way through, and those holes are not sleeved. the bolts come in at the very top and bottom of the frame, close to the bend, so sleeving them is not necessary. there are 8 of them per bracket, so the clamping force is really spread out. plus it would have been too much work. if each one needed to be sleeved, it would have been better to just weld it all to the frame.

edit--another factor is the top row of holes is right where the weld bead for the factory bracket was, making the metal much harder. I'm sure you've tried to drill through a weld before, so you know how much it sucks.
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Last edited by darkstar; 02-05-2006 at 08:26 PM.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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When I chopped my rear section of the chassis (check out the thread "chopped"), I noticed a "zig-zagging" 3mm run across the WHOLE chassis - I think I'll dice up the lost section to reveal exactly what I am talking about. FWIW, I've never cut or drilled at the chassis, so this coule be the reason why the Rover chassis are so known to be strong...
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Old 02-06-2006, 02:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDino
When I chopped my rear section of the chassis (check out the thread "chopped"), I noticed a "zig-zagging" 3mm run across the WHOLE chassis - I think I'll dice up the lost section to reveal exactly what I am talking about. FWIW, I've never cut or drilled at the chassis, so this coule be the reason why the Rover chassis are so known to be strong...
Most of my experience is with early rangies. Where they have bolts though the chassis rails, there is a pressed plate about 1.6mm thick, inside the rails to prevent the rail crushing. A 'C' shape is pressed in where the bolts go through (center of 'C').

This is what I believe you are referring to.
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
Most of my experience is with early rangies. Where they have bolts though the chassis rails, there is a pressed plate about 1.6mm thick, inside the rails to prevent the rail crushing. A 'C' shape is pressed in where the bolts go through (center of 'C').

This is what I believe you are referring to.
All Landie, Rangie and Disco chassis I have owned or worked on have this (newest one I owned was a 1998 model disco). On early Land Rovers the "zigzag" plate is more like 2mm or 2.5mm. If I bolt anything through the chassis I drill the holes larger and weld tubes into the chassis rail, with the same ID as the bolt diameter.
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Old 02-06-2006, 06:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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What are you doing with the old rear links? I'm interested if you are selling them.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm going to sell them, but I want to see if I can sell them locally first. I would rather not ship them.
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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I'll pm you my email address so you can reach me if local sale does not work out.
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Old 02-06-2006, 10:24 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkstar
the bolts come in at the very top and bottom of the frame, close to the bend, so sleeving them is not necessary. there are 8 of them per bracket, so the clamping force is really spread out.
Makes perfect sense. Wonder how much force will even be on those 8 mounting bolts where the main arm bolt goes through the frame.
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:43 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Dig the mounts. The first one's that Keith ever built were for my old D90. However, they did not have the bend, they were much longer, and we used a different mounts. I beat the crap out of them for two years and the only damage was few scratches .Might pick up a set of front and rear for my project.
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Old 02-11-2006, 11:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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i love the end product, but Alex, why not just weld?
do you really think you'll need that much adjustability?
i mean once it's setup correctly, wouldn't the heim have enough length to fine tune?
or you thinking that belt and suspenders on spandex pants will give you more warm fuzzies?
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Old 02-24-2006, 12:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have a simular set-up, but I went with the Currie Johnny Joints...
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Old 02-24-2006, 01:05 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Dan:
How many miles do you have on those joints? When you set them up did you set the preload with 1, or 2 washers? Just curious as to how the races hold up after they get some use.
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:52 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Not sure what you mean by washers.....On the inside of the C-clip, I have two washers, if that's what you mean. One on each side of the bushings.

As of now, I have about 15,000 miles on them. I grease them with every oil change, and so far I'm not getting any "slop".
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Old 02-24-2006, 04:25 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I have a simular set-up, but I went with the Currie Johnny Joints...
rovertym mount?
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Old 02-25-2006, 08:30 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Steve made the mounts and the actual link. I made the threaded collor for the johnny joint and the threaded "shaft" on the link, and welded it all together.
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:38 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Not sure what you mean by washers.....On the inside of the C-clip, I have two washers, if that's what you mean. One on each side of the bushings.
That's what I was referring to. As the races wear, you adjust the preload by adding washers. Other designs (krawler, flexxx) use threaded housings with retaining nuts that you can torque down to take out any slop. The urethane currie uses seems to work well. They look good.
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