ABS modification pictures (serious one)

[Way]

Here are some pictures of the ABS modifications performed by Michael Slade.

[Way]

Picture 2

[Way]

Picture 3

[Serious One]

ok, it's IN.

Notice the time of this posting. It took all day to finish the install, which meant running NEW lines to each front caliper, and modifying the T fitting in the rear to work with one line.

There is a LOT to say about this conversion, ease, non-ease, cost, parts, etc....basically it's pretty straightforward, but it is tedious.

I took the truck for a drive around the block tonight after bleeding it and the brakes are MUSHY. I think that one of two things is going on. I either need to re-bleed the system (but the brakes felt FIRM with the engine not running), OR, the vaccum line we hooked up isn't creating as much vacuum as there should be.

More tomorrow....it's late.

Michael

[Serious One]

Ok, the reason the brakes are mushy is becuase the MC is shot. I need to replace it before I can give any impressions.

M

[evilfij]

evilfij said:
"Micheal, Did that 94 disco MC come from the US? If so it is the ABS version. Its also probably getting weak by now so I would rebuild it but thats just me and my (bad) experiences with lucas/girling MCs life. "

Told you so.



But I will tell you where to get a new one. Nathan (www.discountrovers.com) has the best price on one (a little over $200). Whats really wierd is when I was shopping for one the rebuild kit was more than the new MC! See if the same holds true now.

Ron

[evilfij]

"(but the brakes felt FIRM with the engine not running),"

Thats what they all do when they go bad.

Ron

[madcowdungbeetle]

www.thepartsbin.com has the girling ABS MC's for $146 and change.


-Jon

[Serious One]

Hmmmm, the partsbin sounds like a good spot to spend a lot of $$$ where a lot MORE $$$$$$$$$ might have been spent elsewhere.

I won't be rebuilding the M/C. Getting a new one is cheaper and better IMO, so I'll probably be able to get it in on Tuesday I figure. Bummer because it's raining this weekend and I don't want to drive the S1 around that much.

M

[Serious One]

Well, I've been driving on the Disco MC for about 3 days now, and the brakes are still pretty mushy. I think I just need to re-bleed here in a few days and see what's going on. Maybe the Willwood brake pads are a bit harder to brake in? Dunno.

I am pretty sure that I need a proportioning valve. The rear brakes feel like they are doing most of the work, as I'm not getting hardly any nose-dive when I brake hard. I suppose the path of least resistance is to move the 2 pots per caliper on the rear brakes, rather than the 4 pots per caliper of the fronts????

Any thoughts?

I have a Willwood proportioning valve that can be installed very easily, and will probably put it in when I re-bleed. Any tricks/tips to bleeding??? I'm just doing the ol' 50-pump and crack-the-bleeder trick.

Thanks,

Michael

[evilfij]

did you bench bleed the MC? Kind of important.

Other than that they are easy to get bled properly, well easy compared to what you took out.

Ron

[Serious One]

Well, I *thought* so. At least I had fluid shooting across the shop from both orifices (woah, Merv.....).

M

[Serious One]

Hey that reminds me...just what is the lower fitting that has the allen bolt in it?? Couldn't figure it out. Thought perhaps it was some bleeding thing, but left it alone for now.

M

[merv]

Dont be annoying yourself with the pump and squirt bleeding. It's fine for trails, but its well worth getting yourseld one of these bleeding tools.

I've 1 what has a little rubber nozzle that fits onto the end of the bleed screw, leaving the nut part of it exposed so you can open and close it. The rubber nozzle is on a clear pipe that goes to a can, that has another fitting that goes to your air line. When you pull the trigger on the device, it creates suction at the bleed nozzle, open the bleed screw and off you go! If you keep the clear pipe vertical, you can see when the bubbles stop and pure fluid flows. Repeat for every wheel.

Ivor has a different system, possibly better. He has a pressurised can that screws onto the master Cylinder resevoir so that the whole system becomes pressureised without pumping. Uses low pressures like 10psi - 20psi so it does'nt blow seals. then you just go arround and blead each caliper.

Either system is WAY more advanced than the good old pumping, shouting and bleeding. One of these tools runs about $40 to $100 and is a lifetime investment.

Merv.

(helping you get fluids squirting all over your shop <grin> )

[Diesel Jim]

I use one of those 'gunsons easy bleeds' which connects to the top of the master cylinder reservoir and then to a bottle, and to your spare wheel, so it gets pressurised by the wheel, that works pretty well to, makes the job dead easy and 'one man' insteal od getting someone to pump the pedal (or fiddle with your nipples )


Jamie

[Serious One]

well now we're getting personal.

There's only a few select people I'd let 'fiddle wit' me nip-les' . Hehe.

I'll check out a power bleeder. It's about time!

M

[merv]

Jamie's description of his tool relates the the blow job type.

Mine is a genuine suction type, as it does'nt dribble and does swallow all the fluids that would otherwise go all over the floor.



Awe Hell, It's the weekend for me (17:30 over here). Have a good weekend one and all. Hugs all round

(for everyone EXCEPT Doug and Mike: Just making those 2 feel all relaxed and comfortable).