FOX 2.0 remote resi revalve questions.

[michaels]

no one on DWEB is helping me out so i'm bring this here.

i'm buying a used set of FOX 2.0 remote resi 10" travel shocks for the rear of my rover on monday and i'm going to order a rebuild kit and new valve stacks to adjust the compression and rebound to be perfectly suited for my discovery.

i'm done a good bit of reading and there have been people saying to use either 85/95 or 90/100 compression/rebound. however, on polyperformance, where i'm buying all the rebuild parts, the stacks only go up to #90.

so do i buy two separate stacks to get the 95 or 100 rebound? for the 95 i would get the 65 and 30 rebound stacks, and for the 100, i would buy the 70 and 30 rebound stacks and put them together?

i'm running 2" RTE MD springs and a 1" spacer. i keep a cargo box, all my tools, and most of my camping gear in my car all the time. it has a steel rear bumper and sliders,etc...

i just want to make sure i rebuild these correctly. i'm order all new seals as well.

should i put new oil in while i'm at it? and would a gallon or a quart of Fox oil be necessary for two shocks?

[Buckon37s]

Originally Posted by michaels

no one on DWEB is helping me out so i'm bring this here.

i'm buying a used set of FOX 2.0 remote resi 10" travel shocks for the rear of my rover on monday and i'm going to order a rebuild kit and new valve stacks to adjust the compression and rebound to be perfectly suited for my discovery.

i'm done a good bit of reading and there have been people saying to use either 85/95 or 90/100 compression/rebound. however, on polyperformance, where i'm buying all the rebuild parts, the stacks only go up to #90.

so do i buy two separate stacks to get the 95 or 100 rebound? for the 95 i would get the 65 and 30 rebound stacks, and for the 100, i would buy the 70 and 30 rebound stacks and put them together?

i'm running 2" RTE MD springs and a 1" spacer. i keep a cargo box, all my tools, and most of my camping gear in my car all the time. it has a steel rear bumper and sliders,etc...

i just want to make sure i rebuild these correctly. i'm order all new seals as well.

should i put new oil in while i'm at it? and would a gallon or a quart of Fox oil be necessary for two shocks?

Who says 95/100 rebound? Who are you listening to? That sounds nuts to me. I don't know your rig, or what you drive like, but that sounds foreign.

Of course you want to change the oil. Get the gallon. Drain completely and fill to the exact oil height. You won't need it all but it is good to have around. I think it is 6in on the reservior after "pumping". Hard to remember. If I were you, I would call John Marking at Fox in El Cajon. I think that is his name, it's been a while. Get your rig weighed and talk to a tech there to get the starting range. Tune from there.

Chances are, you won't know the difference between a well tuned shock and a standard one. In fact. I would do the standard old 60/40 and run them. Make adjustements from there.

[michaels]

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

Who says 95/100 rebound? Who are you listening to? That sounds nuts to me. I don't know your rig, or what you drive like, but that sounds foreign.

Of course you want to change the oil. Get the gallon. Drain completely and fill to the exact oil height. You won't need it all but it is good to have around. I think it is 6in on the reservior after "pumping". Hard to remember. If I were you, I would call John Marking at Fox in El Cajon. I think that is his name, it's been a while. Get your rig weighed and talk to a tech there to get the starting range. Tune from there.

Chances are, you won't know the difference between a well tuned shock and a standard one. In fact. I would do the standard old 60/40 and run them. Make adjustements from there.

85/95 or 90/100 compression/rebound is what i've been hearing from a lot of people.

the 85/95 is what a lot of people have recommended, with the 90/100 being for trucks more heavily laden.. they compared the 85/95 to bilstein's 380/90 numbers and the 90/100 to bilstein's 400/100 numbers.

the truck is a DII. it has sliders, front and rear bumpers and a winch up front. i keep probably 100lbs of gear in the back at all times, more when i'm loaded up for a trip. it's a heavy truck.

these are the numbers i've always heard for rear shock valving.

[michaels]

from the mind of marc_olivares via expedition portal.

Originally Posted by marc olivares

under every rubber damper on the fox shock, fox scribes the valving.
most off the shelf fox shocks come 40/60 but for a rover you will want to be in the 85/95, 90/100, 95/105 range depending on what kind of spring rate run and load you carry. there is no "one shock fits all" valving.
85/95 front and 90/100 rear pretty common

[Buckon37s]

Originally Posted by michaels

from the mind of marc_olivares via expedition portal.

How much does your truck weigh? Are you pushing 8k? I guess it could be right, I don't know your truck. I have a feeling that people are going way to stiff to compensate for other issues.

[michaels]

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

How much does your truck weigh? Are you pushing 8k? I guess it could be right, I don't know your truck. I have a feeling that people are going way to stiff to compensate for other issues.

hmm... well what my truck weighs aside, how would i achieve 85/95 or 90/100 when the valve stacks only go up to 90?

[Scrambler Jimmy]

Originally Posted by Buckon37s

I have a feeling that people are going way to stiff to compensate for other issues.

Yep... I've got my Fox 2.0s valved stiff due to the 3" lift and no sway bars. Definitely compensating...

[Junkyddog11]

You're right with the #'s. I'm not sure how FOX figures it (it does compare to the 400 /100 Bilstien) but the 90 /100 is right on for a 5500lb Disco. They'll still heat up off road though. Call FOX and they can send you a chart that goes "off the chart"...with the right valve stack info.

[michaels]

Originally Posted by Junkyddog11

You're right with the #'s. I'm not sure how FOX figures it (it does compare to the 400 /100 Bilstien) but the 90 /100 is right on for a 5500lb Disco. They'll still heat up off road though. Call FOX and they can send you a chart that goes "off the chart"...with the right valve stack info.

thanks. i'll give them a call on monday.

[Junkyddog11]

I probably shouldn't have said "right on" for a 55oold disco....it is the max rebound that those shocks can handle. It still is not really enough in my book and they get hot and fade. Asking allot from a little shock.

[100SRV]

Note that the Bilstein valving data given is only at one shaft speed, I think it is measured at 3 metres per second (I will check) whereas the Fox valve info is a percentage, one of which is actually twice the value of the other (again I can't remember whether 50% rebound = 100% bump or vice-versa but you get the idea).

You can also get some interesting effects by changing the pistons - I recently had the valving changed on the Fox 12 x 2.0 emulsion dampers fitted to my Bowler - I was amazed at how much difference three hours of work can make - initial test-drive, modify rear, test drive and be impressed, modify front and drive home amazed. It is worth between 10 and 15mph in cornering speed whether on tarmac or trail with no ill-effect on articulation.

PM me if you want to know more...I know an excellent suspension engineer and Fox agent in the UK who deals direct with the USA.

[red90rover]

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...ls.htm#offroad

How to valve above 90 is explained here....

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...icalManual.pdf

[michaels]

max gave me a good link of a palce that sells shims in 95 and 100. so i'm good to go on this issue. thanks.

[michaels]

sooo.... i'm just now getting to this. i can't get the cap off the main reservoir (where the shaft enters the assembly). any tips? i'm bending my spanner wrench everytime i try to unscrew. would heat be a bad idea on this end?

i've gotten as far as removing the remote reservoir and dumping the oil.

thanks.

[Kyle_T]

Rear? 95/105.

[Puffdragon]

Yes, you will likely want 95/100 or even higher. That is generally what I have always valved fox shocks for D90's and up.


I have even gone off the fox chart once or twice. Fox valving is pretty light. And the factory will always give you a rate that is way to low.

To get the higher valving, you must buy extra valving packs. Then double up the main shim if I recall. But refer to the chart of fox to be sure as it's been a couple years since I revalved a fox.

PS, you will not be covering up a problem, but merely realizing the difference in driving a truck on the street and some good off roading vs racing.

[michaels]

i got 90/100. i don't keep much weight in the truck these days (only a couple tool boxes now), but the valving isn't what i'm having trouble with right now. it's getting this damned cap off the body. i'm gonna go weld up a stronger wrench and heat up the parts a bit to try to get it off.

i watched a video on how to do it and it seems prettys traight forward from where i am now. here's the link for future reference to anyone.

YouTube - Rebuilding a Fox Off Road Shock.mov

[Puffdragon]

Yes, light heat even from a really good heat gun should release the cap. Don't go crazy with a torch, it wont really take that much heat. Hopefully you have a good soft jaw vice as this make a huge difference.

[michaels]

ok. i used the plasma and made a new spanner wrench out of 1/4" steel. drilled some holes for some metal rods as the pegs, and the shock cap came right out. no heat was needed. the spanner wrench i already had just wasn't up to the task.

now just to reassemble. the coilover bible helped a good bit. here's a link for future searches:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...lovers/Part_2/

and here's the tool i made: