Is the 60 a full floater axle? if so you shouldnt repack the wheel bearings just clean them and reinstall them. Wheel bearings in a full floater axle are lubricated by the differential fluid through the axle tube.
To identify your axles look for a # stamped into the passenger side axle tube, You may have to use a wire brush and some degreaser to clean it up enough to see it. Once you clean the grime off use some sand paper to clean the rust off, this should make it easier to see. To find out what spline count you can pull the axle shafts and take a look.
Okay so i just got online. i really appreciate your help with this. i plan on having 35 inch tires. i also have a lot of long side shafts for the 44. the reason im sticking with it is cuz all it needs is new locking hubs and my mounts of course. it already has 4.10s so thats whats im going with. the 60 has discs and all the bearings are solid si ill just repack them. theres some rust on the spindle and the pumpkin needs to be cleaned out(blasted)
First off what size tire do you plan on running? If you ever plan on going any bigger than 35in. tires and you don't want to keep dumping money into that D44 to replace broken parts, I would say sell the D44 and buy a D60 front. Ideally find a 78'-79' D60 out of a F350, If you can't find one of those look for a D60 out of an 85' F350 or earlier.
The D60 axles of these years will have King Pins instead of ball joints, a high pinion and 35 spline axle shafts. Replace any parts that need to be replaced. You can source any of these replacement parts from your local auto parts store, you just need to know the year, make and model of the vehicle it came out of. The rear D60 should be a full floater type. I would do a disk break conversion to the rear axle if it presently has drum brakes. Both these axles will be 8 lug.
I you donít already have rims and tires 17in. rims are a good choice because they will fit over the breaks properly. A lot of guys are using the rims from a Hummer2. Buy whatever tires work best for the terrain you plan on wheelin. Here in the North West, I think Super Swamper Iroks work the best, 39.5x13.5 is a good size.
Before you start putting anything on your xj make sure to plate your frame. You can do a Google search for frame plating kits for your xj, also known as frame stiffeners. I just used 3/16x3in. and 3/16x4in. flat bar and made my own. Search the Cherokee forum for a TOTM about frame plating and read it.
If you read my build thread more closely it will answer a lot of your questions. You’re going to have to get your rear drive shaft modified in length. I use a stock length drive shaft up front. normally you would have to shorten the front drive shaft to fit with a D60 or D44, I just moved the axle forward so I could always get replacement front drive shafts form the wrecking yard for cheap.
To mount your coil buckets you will first need to set your pinion angle and caster angle once you have those where you want them put your coil buckets on level. For shocks, put them where they fit. Try to make them similar to the original location. Once you have all your brackets tacked in place assemble the front end without the coil springs and flex it out in both directions and turn the steering both ways checking for any interference. Do the same at full bump.
Another thing to do before you have your drive shaft(s) made is get a good slip yoke eliminator kit for your NP231 transfer case and install it. This is a must, if you don't do this you will end up breaking rear drive shafts and probably the transfer case itself. This is due to the angles imposed on the driveshaft from the suspension lift and more extreme amounts of movement.
I would use the Detroit locker in the front axle, if you pick up D60 front. A full spool is nice for the rear for off road. For on road use the Detroit in the rear is a pretty good choice, these lockers will cause some drivability issues which don't bother some people. USA gears are pretty good a less expensive. 5.38 is a good gear ratio for big tires. There are a lot of other details involved with choice of gears, lockers, ratios, spline count etc.... Most of these details are dependent on exactly what axles you have, what size tire you want to run, personal preference, weather it's going to be a daily driver or a trailer rig etc....
Preston, I hope this was helpful to you, just remember some of this advice is just my opinion. There is no one specific right way to build this stuff, just good ways and bad ways. The one thing I would like to emphasize on is READ as much as you can. There are many forums, books and magazines out there. This one seems to be a good one, I get a lot of good info from here.