Diff removal - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

cruiserrg · 12-07-2002, 10:01 PM

Just wanted to see if anyone has tips or tricks to remove the diff assembly from a 404 housing. I finally got mine out after about an hour or two of messing around.

I found that the tie rod had to be removed, diff rotated so the locker is pointed up, and hold the locker engaged while tilting it out. It was a PITA. I'm hoping there is a neat trick to make it easier when I tackle the second axle.

EUROTRUCK · 12-08-2002, 12:13 AM

Cruiser,

This is verbatim from the shop manual:

Knock out two set pins.
Attach drive housing (3rd member) to hoist and raise approx. 1 cm at first, then turn 90 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) and lift out completely.

I have all of the backlash numbers and other specs if you need them. Come to think of it, you might want to call your nearest Unimog dealer and order the manual so you'll have it all there in your shop when you need it.

Good luck,

Sean Philyaw

cruiserrg · 12-08-2002, 12:04 PM

sean,

Thanks for the reply. Glad to know I did it right. Of course I found out the hard way that its the only way that the diff will come out.

As far as the shop manual, I had read somewhere the factory manual did have much on the axles. I might have to check further into that.

It looks like I won't have to rebuild the diff assembly, I just have to change over to the narrowed housings I have. So I may not need the backlash numbers and specs, but would be good information to have collected here for others.

Thanks

midog · 07-23-2008, 09:58 AM

I know this is an old thread but does anyone have the backlash numbers for the ring and pinion?

Bentcrank · 07-24-2008, 02:47 PM

While you got the diff out go on and grind out the axle housing so you can load the diff straight back in without the rotation issues. Oh yea....a zip-tie on the locker arm also comes in real handy.

weps · 07-24-2008, 07:06 PM

X2 on the "open up the housing" so you don't have to screw with rotating it again.

YELLOWHOBO · 08-01-2008, 10:31 PM

X3... Well worth the clearance!

kabuki · 08-05-2008, 11:00 AM

i would be interested to know what the backlash specs are supposed to be. i checked mine before dissassembly and it was .005" and it was the same when i assembled it, so i figured it was fine.

Public_AenimA · 08-22-2008, 11:47 AM

I have been thinking about adding an assist cylinder to my front end using a double ended ram and two short tie rods to replace the stock tie rod in the back. To do this I had figured on welding a 3/8" plate to the bottom of the diff housing and have it overhang in the back so I could mount my ram on top of it below the third member portion of the housing out of harms way. Now if I do this... I am not sure it would be possible to rotate the third member to remove it if I ever needed to. Am I right? Should I reconsider this design?

weps · 08-25-2008, 06:32 PM

physically should work just fine. It will be "nested" up out of harms way pretty nice too.
"But", may bring the suck trying to remove the pig.
Can't you weld it with a removable mount? I clamped my cylinder with a 2 piece bracket (no pics) that resembled a main cap on an engine crankshaft, and that was easy to service.

Public_AenimA · 08-26-2008, 11:49 AM

after posting I got to thinking and I guess I 'could' make the whole plate removable, I just thought easier (faster, simpler) install would be nice.

Oh well I guess I can suck it up and do things the right(inconvenient, more time consuming) way

12-07-2002, 10:01 PM	#1 (permalink)
cruiserrg Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Member # 4961 Location: Mankato, MN USA Posts: 867	Diff removal Just wanted to see if anyone has tips or tricks to remove the diff assembly from a 404 housing. I finally got mine out after about an hour or two of messing around. I found that the tie rod had to be removed, diff rotated so the locker is pointed up, and hold the locker engaged while tilting it out. It was a PITA. I'm hoping there is a neat trick to make it easier when I tackle the second axle. __________________ Reuben Gosewisch AKA: cruiserrg See pics of my Tube Chassised, MOG axled rockcrawler project: [url="http://webpages.charter.net/cruiserrg/toypuproject.html"]CruiserProject[/url] Wisconsin Off Highway Vehicle Association Webmaster: [url="http://www.wohva.com"]www.wohva.com[/url] Midwest 4 Wheel Drive Association Webmaster: [url="http://www.mw4wda.org"]www.mw4wda.org[/url]

12-08-2002, 12:13 AM	#2 (permalink)
EUROTRUCK Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Member # 12704 Location: Oakwood, GA - USA Posts: 122	you did it right Cruiser, This is verbatim from the shop manual: Knock out two set pins. Attach drive housing (3rd member) to hoist and raise approx. 1 cm at first, then turn 90 degrees to the left (counterclockwise) and lift out completely. I have all of the backlash numbers and other specs if you need them. Come to think of it, you might want to call your nearest Unimog dealer and order the manual so you'll have it all there in your shop when you need it. Good luck, Sean Philyaw __________________ [COLOR=Red][SIZE=3]Unimog Sales - Service - Parts[/SIZE][/COLOR] [URL=http://www.eurotruck-importers.com]www.eurotruck-importers.com[/URL]

12-08-2002, 12:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
cruiserrg Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Member # 4961 Location: Mankato, MN USA Posts: 867	sean, Thanks for the reply. Glad to know I did it right. Of course I found out the hard way that its the only way that the diff will come out. As far as the shop manual, I had read somewhere the factory manual did have much on the axles. I might have to check further into that. It looks like I won't have to rebuild the diff assembly, I just have to change over to the narrowed housings I have. So I may not need the backlash numbers and specs, but would be good information to have collected here for others. Thanks __________________ Reuben Gosewisch AKA: cruiserrg See pics of my Tube Chassised, MOG axled rockcrawler project: [url="http://webpages.charter.net/cruiserrg/toypuproject.html"]CruiserProject[/url] Wisconsin Off Highway Vehicle Association Webmaster: [url="http://www.wohva.com"]www.wohva.com[/url] Midwest 4 Wheel Drive Association Webmaster: [url="http://www.mw4wda.org"]www.mw4wda.org[/url]

08-01-2008, 10:31 PM	#7 (permalink)
YELLOWHOBO Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Member # 81150 Location: Clovis, CA Posts: 961	X3... Well worth the clearance! __________________ PTM Racing #37 Craig Thompson Spotter: Red Dragon 2010 CalRocs Champion 2011 Cal-Neva Champion ________________ Trail-Gear Inc. Expedition Imports TK1 Artworkz Any7 Tom Woods

08-05-2008, 11:00 AM	#8 (permalink)
kabuki Wheeler Join Date: Jun 2004 Member # 31910 Location: Portland OR Posts: 476	i would be interested to know what the backlash specs are supposed to be. i checked mine before dissassembly and it was .005" and it was the same when i assembled it, so i figured it was fine. __________________ www.KabukiWarrior.com

07-23-2008, 09:58 AM	#4 (permalink)
midog Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Member # 111594 Posts: 258	I know this is an old thread but does anyone have the backlash numbers for the ring and pinion?

07-24-2008, 02:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
Bentcrank Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Member # 114920 Location: Here for now Posts: 117	While you got the diff out go on and grind out the axle housing so you can load the diff straight back in without the rotation issues. Oh yea....a zip-tie on the locker arm also comes in real handy.

07-24-2008, 07:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
weps Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10290 Location: Northeast Indiana Posts: 1,205	X2 on the "open up the housing" so you don't have to screw with rotating it again.

08-22-2008, 11:47 AM	#9 (permalink)
Public_AenimA Wheeler Join Date: Mar 2008 Member # 110069 Posts: 248	I have been thinking about adding an assist cylinder to my front end using a double ended ram and two short tie rods to replace the stock tie rod in the back. To do this I had figured on welding a 3/8" plate to the bottom of the diff housing and have it overhang in the back so I could mount my ram on top of it below the third member portion of the housing out of harms way. Now if I do this... I am not sure it would be possible to rotate the third member to remove it if I ever needed to. Am I right? Should I reconsider this design?

08-25-2008, 06:32 PM	#10 (permalink)
weps Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Member # 10290 Location: Northeast Indiana Posts: 1,205	physically should work just fine. It will be "nested" up out of harms way pretty nice too. "But", may bring the suck trying to remove the pig. Can't you weld it with a removable mount? I clamped my cylinder with a 2 piece bracket (no pics) that resembled a main cap on an engine crankshaft, and that was easy to service.

08-26-2008, 11:49 AM	#11 (permalink)
Public_AenimA Wheeler Join Date: Mar 2008 Member # 110069 Posts: 248	after posting I got to thinking and I guess I 'could' make the whole plate removable, I just thought easier (faster, simpler) install would be nice. Oh well I guess I can suck it up and do things the right(inconvenient, more time consuming) way

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