Run my Mog9's with stock housing?

[Jwbogger]

Trying to decide if I want to run my mog9 using the 9" housings (trussed) or change it now to a aftermarket housing's. I am pulling my 404's this weekend and was going to start swapping the axles, but have concerns with stock 9" housings. They are pretty much ready minus link brackets and trussing, so changing to an aftermarket housing would be costly and delay the swap. However, it would eliminate a potential weak link.
Thoughts?

Pics of said axles;

[siebert]

You might want to consider aftermarket.

With my mog 9 rear, I had a heavy duty factory housing trussed across the back. I was tuning my blower kit in and was doing some pretty spirited accellerations.

Shortly after, I noticed oil leaking from beside the third member. The housing had cracked along the weld on the front of the center section beside the third member. It had seperated that weld and had started traveling around the axle tube where the center section is welded to it. It was lucky that I noticed it when I did.

There was another guy on this board that was running a mog 9 and his failure was the same, but catastrophic, the housing came right apart. There are pics on here somewhere.You can see in the pics that it had cracked around the tube at the weld.

I think that the cause if this is the tube trying to twist inside the center section. Maybe if you truss the shit out if the housing, top and back you may be able to prevent this.

I have since upgraded to Ruffstuff housings and so far so good. Definitely a much stronger housing.

[weps]

I built my mog -9's before the aftermarket ones were (readily) available. I put a truss on both of them and have had no problems, 'but' I do not have a blower motor.
I also retubed mine all the way into the stamped Ford piece, and set a 'bulkhead' plate inside where the pig goes.

If I were to build another one today, I would go with a fabbed housing as they are relatively cheap.
my 2 cents

[xjweeble]

Had the same failure on my mog9 front. Saw a drip and found the tube cracked.

Solution. I rewelded then added 1/2" thick flat stock. BTW this is a trussed strange housing with 3.250" tubes.

[Jwbogger]

I am leaning towards Ruff Stuff housing's.

[shaka 55]

x2 on after market. the 9 housings are known to tear open. I've seen it first hand.

Question:

What brake combo are you running? calipers? Brackets? rotors?

Hubs? >Machined? aftermarket? getthofabed?

Just curious cause I need to put together a disc brake kit mine.

[Jwbogger]

They are 2000 Super Duty Calipers and 97 Rotors. Brackets were built by previous owner and I have to recreate 2 more.
I am ordering my housings on Monday and I am leaning towards Ruff Stuff's right now.

Here are few pics of the brake, rotor, hub set up.

[shaka 55]

Thanks for the pictures that hepls alot. I was thinking of trying Ford stuff, so its good to see that it will work. I don;t like the brackets on the market because they use corvete calipers. Corvete calipers are expensive ( I think) to the piont were you might as well buy wilwood calipers instead. I did see you have the modified hubs. I'm guessing they move the Wheel mounting surface on the hub all the way out so the offset of the rotor doesn't hit the portal box? That must be why all the disc conversions add 3.5" to each side of the axle. That was something I wanted to try and avoid for a couple reasons. 1 then you need to narrow housing to get back to a good width which leads to a narrower housing that gives you less link and Coilover mounting options and space. 2) scrub raidius is changed, and you can offset that with H1 rims but then you can't use a majority of the aftermarket highsteer arms because they interfear with H1's. Nice project and looking forward to seeing the RS housings!

[Tazer15]

Make that 6 more and I'll make your wallet a little thicker!;-)