Turbo'd on pane toyota with 404s - Page 13 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum  

Go Back   Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum > Brand Specific Tech > Mercedes
Notices

Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-04-2017, 05:52 PM   #301 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 181868
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,496
Quote:
Originally Posted by christophercorpus View Post
From the videos he has posted he doest seem to be into too much rock crawling. As stated before the rocks and the loading and unloading is what seems to make em break. As well as the loose bolts and old material...
These breaks just seem pretty catastrophic to me, leaving your rig immobile. And since I'm always a glutton for punishment taking the dumb(FUN) route and I just don't want to be stuck in some canyon with a broke portal. So I think ill upgrade them as soon as I can.
Yea, that guy probably doesn't wheel the way Nwflyoda does. LOL. But his is not a mall crawler either. And his probably out weighs by a couple grand. In one of his later posts, he broke an axle. So, at least that broke before the box. The loose bolts is a scary issue. I don't think the old material is a biggie. Especially if the boxes have low hours. (Probably most)

Your canyon senierio does suck. I know, I've had to leave my rig on three occasions off road. (Many years ago) Personally, I hate leaving it on road more. (More thieves are likely to spot it) But, I sappose, it can happen anytime no matter what you run.
__________________
Project : Amphibious HEMTT


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
waterhorse is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-05-2017, 07:00 PM   #302 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Member # 11684
Location: Australia
Posts: 268
In my own experience, it's the leverage from shallow backspaced wheels that the boxes can't handle.

I make my own wheels with as close to the standard Unimog offset as I can manage, Currently about 7" backspace on a 9" wide wheel (on the standard drum brakes), the face of my beadlock ring is roughly flush with the face of the big hub bolt.

I've bent wheels, bent axle housings, bent steering arms, stripped ring and pinions, but never broken a portal box front or rear.

The only downside to this setup is you have to use at least an 18" wheel to clear the top two bolts on the portal.
wendleburger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Old 04-05-2017, 07:02 PM   #303 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by wendleburger View Post
In my own experience, it's the leverage from shallow backspaced wheels that the boxes can't handle.

I make my own wheels with as close to the standard Unimog offset as I can manage, Currently about 7" backspace on a 9" wide wheel (on the standard drum brakes), the face of my beadlock ring is roughly flush with the face of the big hub bolt.

I've bent wheels, bent axle housings, bent steering arms, stripped ring and pinions, but never broken a portal box front or rear.

The only downside to this setup is you have to use at least an 18" wheel to clear the top two bolts on the portal.
That's good to know, thanks for the info.

I'm currently running the stock H1 wheels but with 2" wheel spacers to help clear the high steer arms. Hopefully that doesn't introduce too much of an issue but time will tell.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 04-12-2017, 05:10 PM   #304 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Update:

I was finally able to fully resolve the issue at hand where the lower links contacted the frame during full suspension travel. This wasn't as much of a pain to remedy as i had expected. I ended up only having to add 2 plates to box it the frame. It's a little hard to tell from the picture, but i had to add one vertical plate and then one plate to tie the peak of the "tunnel" to the outside wall of the frame. Once that was done i painted it and snapped the pic.



Now that i had a fully painted and ready chassis so to speak, it was time to roll it out of the garage so that i could start to work on the body. Here is where is sits now for the next couple weeks while i take care of the body work. Of course she'll be covered under a tarp for the time being.



With some room now in the garage, it was time to start working on the bottom of the cab. The cab is pretty light thankfully and with the help of a couple buddies, we set it in the garage (previously sat on top of my gooseneck trailer under a WAY oversized tarp) on its back. At this point, it was time to clean up the cab. The perk of building an older rig is that i get to clean off the 33 years of road grim, grease, and mud off of the bottom of the cab. I drilled the spot welds off of the inner fender to cab mounts since Toyota has everything (core support, inner fenders, and cab) spot welded together. This left me just the cab to work with. I was able to get most of the junk off of the bottom of the cab and firewall, but next will be pressure washing it to get it cleaned up the rest of the way.



From there, I'll address a few issues that i need to take care of. I am going to redo the lower fender mount on the cab. The factory bolts broke off inside the cab some time ago and I've just had the lower part of the fender attached via a self tap screw. This has started to not hold so well so now is the time to address it.

I'll also address some of the extra holes in the cab that were previously used for the factory wire harness. Since I'm going to run a completely aftermarket harness, there isn't much of a need for the large holes. Since Toyota basically dimples the holes outward, i cut some of the surrounding sheet metal off to weld in a patch panel.



I also started to clean up some of the areas on the cab where the original sheet metal met with the new sheet metal. I ground down the excess metal so that it was smooth. I'd rather not filet open my hands/arms when i have to work on the truck down the road.

While i did like the striped paint job on the hood, it was time to start stripping the paint off to prepare for the sand/tan color that it will have. I picked up some "aircraft paint remover" from the local parts house and got to work. I ended up using one entire can and this is what I'm left with. I may go pick up another can to work on the hood some more but so far, I'm pretty pleased.



There has been a slight change in plans as far as the paint goes. No longer is my buddy going to paint it due to scheduling issues plus the fact that the little bit of body that is expose, WILL get hit and/or scratched and it's going to be a lot easier to touch up the paint with rattle can vs an actual automotive paint done by a pro. Plus, this way, it'll be easier to get the colors to match once i finally continue to build my half doors.

The entire interior of the cab, firewall, and bottom of the cab will receive the truck bed liner treatment. I'll be using the rustoleum bed liner paint for that. The rest of the body pieces will be painted a "sand" color. I still plan to paint an OX head on the hood near the passenger head light. I've got 3 different size decals to use for a template. I'll have to decide which one i like best.

I'm excited and happy to be on this phase of the build now. Once the "body work" is done and everything is painted, I'll get to put it on and start stabbing the drive train back into the truck.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-12-2017, 07:21 PM   #305 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 181868
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,496
Wow, your shop looks roomy. Is the rustolium bed liner a two part paint? Have you used it before?

Definitely getting exciting now.

I would love to get back down there during final assembly. Its been so busy lately and your moving pretty fast. We'll see.
__________________
Project : Amphibious HEMTT


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
waterhorse is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-13-2017, 06:27 AM   #306 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
Wow, your shop looks roomy. Is the rustolium bed liner a two part paint? Have you used it before?

Definitely getting exciting now.

I would love to get back down there during final assembly. Its been so busy lately and your moving pretty fast. We'll see.
Yeah, there is lots of room for activities with the chassis out of the way. No, the rustolium is a single part in a spray can. I don't think it'll be anything like the line X that is in my dually's bed. I have not used it before but I've heard good things about it.

Just let me know when you head this way! It certainly doesn't feel like i'm moving fast...but that could be the excitement getting to me for it nearing completion.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2017, 08:05 AM   #307 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Small update:

There hasn't been a lot of progress lately. I went out of town to help a buddy work on his mother's place.

Last update i had started to clean the cab for paint. Well, since then, i brought the cab outside, pressure washed/degreased the under side of the cab and started patching any holes or removing any brackets that were no longer going to be used.

Then started to apply the truck bed liner paint to the cab. As of right now, the entire bottom of the cab and firewall are painted with the bed liner paint as well as the complete interior.

View of the bottom side of the cab.



The inside trans tunnel/firewall.



Here is the rest of the cab.



Next on the list is to start preparing the exterior panels on the cab for paint. Once i complete this, i'll move onto the hood, fenders, and cowl panel. Those last couple items shouldn't take too long to knock out.

Its definitely nice to start seeing it in one color and will be great to have the cab finally matted to the chassis for good.

Since i know i'm getting close to wiring the truck, i went ahead and ordered the harness for it. I still need to order a few components for the truck so that i can have everything plumb, and installed before i start to wire the truck.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by nwflyoda; 05-14-2017 at 02:40 PM.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2017, 08:58 AM   #308 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 181868
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,496
Amazing how the paint makes the cab not look so "chopped up". Looks almost like it was meant to be that way. So how you liking the bed liner for that job?
__________________
Project : Amphibious HEMTT


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
waterhorse is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2017, 11:46 AM   #309 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
So far i'm really liking how the bed liner job turned out. Its definitely no LineX or Rhino liner but for what i'm using it for, its great. One can doesn't go very far though. Just spraying the bottom of the cab, firewall, and complete interior of the cab....i've used 7 tall cans of that paint.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2017, 03:31 PM   #310 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Update:

Over the past few days, I've been working on the paint for the cab, doors, fenders, and cowl panel. And finally....they are now all done. They are painted on both the exterior and interior. Probably a bit over kill for a crawler that I'll beat on but i figured now is the best time to address them.

The only item left is the hood, which required a lot more work than i had expected due to the layers of paint on it. I was finally able to get the hood sanded and smooth enough. So first, i started on the underside. Here is what the hood currently looks like. I'm letting the paint dry and once its done, I'll get to work on the top side. This will get exciting since I'll get to lay on the ox head logo.



I masked off the cab and started to lay down the "fancy" rattle can gloss sand paint. I will say that i was actually really impressed/surprised with this paint. The paint laid on really nicely and turned out a lot better than i had expected honestly.

View from the front.



Rear view of the cab.



Once that was all dry, i removed the paper/masking tape to reveal the final product. I'm thrilled and at this point, couldn't wait for the cab to get installed.

Another front view of the cab.



I was even able to install the rear window. Just another step down for the build to be finished.



Here are a few photos of the doors, fenders, and cowl panel painted.

Bottom side of the cowl panel.



Top side of the cowl panel.



Inside of the front fenders.



Exterior of the front fenders.



Inside of the driver side door.

__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by nwflyoda; 05-14-2017 at 03:33 PM.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2017, 03:33 PM   #311 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Exterior of the driver side door.



Inside of the passenger side door.



Exterior of the passenger side door.



Don't mind the waviness of the doors, they'll get crushed soon enough. lol I added a 1x2 rectangle tube brace in the door and while welding the sheet metal to the .125" thick tubing, the sheet metal had some distortion. I wasn't terribly worried about it since the brace is there for function, the doors were already dented up, and the reality is this...the doors will get crushed again, I'm sure. This is the 3rd set the truck has had since I've owned it after all.

And now for the big moment that I've been waiting for, for quite some time...today was time for the cab to get installed. This ended up going more smoothly than i had planned/expected largely due to the fact that i had several friends over to help. Due to the tight clearances, we had to pick the front of the cab up quite a bit more than the rear to get the cab to fit down into the chassis below the top of the cage. i masked off the back corners of the cab where the ID tube clamps get very close and over all, that worked great. The cab went on and the only real scratch that occurred was due to the chain from the A frame slipping out of our hands and hitting the cab. Oh well. Its easy to touch up.

Here you can see the cab now in her final home.



I left the top of the cage off at this point since i still need to install the windshield. But to install it, i need to order the clips/guides that allow the windshield to rest on it while the glue dries that seals the windshield to the cab. Once that is in, i'll be able to install both the cage, and the cowl panel of the truck.

At this point, i didn't want to install the doors since they'll be in the way and make it a little tougher to get inside the cab to install the rest of the components.

This is very exciting to me since I'm getting close to the home stretch of this build. Now i can start to install the components of the truck for good and get ready to take care of the plumbing and wiring. Speaking of the wiring, i ordered a 20 circuit kwik wire chassis harness and it arrived. I'm very impressed with this kit and i look forward to getting to wire it up...i enjoy wiring a vehicle strangely enough. lol For the wiring of the truck, i plan to make all of the items in the truck ground switched instead of the norm hot side switched. I'll add several relay's to the system so that i can just run smaller gauge ground wires to the dash for the activation of the relays.



The next item up to install is the engine. I need to paint the engine mounts then i can set the engine in along with the transmission. I have to wait on the dana 300 since i need to rebuild it first.

While i hunt for the windshield clips, i need to find a new transmission fill plug. The one on it was tightened too tight before and i ended up ruining the hex head. I don't like how "shallow" the hex head of the fill plug is. It is very easy to round off while trying to use full retard strength to loosen. that ultimately caused me to round the head off and then i attempted to get the bolt off with a hammer and chisel to no avail. sadly, what finally worked to get the bolt loose was to weld a both onto it but now it needs to be replaced.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2017, 05:23 PM   #312 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 181868
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,496
Looks good. You like wiring? Hmmmm.

Carry on.
__________________
Project : Amphibious HEMTT


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
waterhorse is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-15-2017, 05:14 AM   #313 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Thanks. yeah, its a little relaxing and a challenge all at once. i'm weird though. lol
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-23-2017, 05:49 PM   #314 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Update:

There hasn't been a lot of progress lately, i had to head out of town for work. But i did want to get several items installed on the truck before i left.

The engine is now back in its final resting place. Man was it a pain in the ass to install this time. The only thing that really fought me was getting the engine mounts to slide down in between the tabs on the frame. Between tightening the bolts before, fully welding everything, the tolerances shrunk and left me cussing a bit more than the norm to get her bolted in. Its funny how small it looks with out the turbo or intake on.



The truck now has a new windshield. I bought a used one from a buddy of mine but after i cleaned it up, i noticed that it had a pretty nice chip right in the driver's view. So, i will keep it as a spare and i just bought a new one and had it installed.



The next item up was to install the transmission. This went a lot easier than i had expected considering how much more work the engine was this go around. From the below picture, you can see just how much of a steep angle i have to lift the transmission at in order to have the bell housing clear the engine yet still allow enough room for the cross members.



But now the transmission is fully bolted to the engine. All that i have left to do on this is to bolt on the engine braces between the bottom of the block and the lower bell housing bolts.



Now that the transmission is installed, i was able to install the 43s.



The last piece of the puzzle that i wanted to get installed before my trip was the top side of the cage. The truck is starting to come together nicely and it won't be long before i'm running the plumbing and wiring.



I was finally able to get the hood painted but the ox head didn't turn out quiet like i had wanted. Everything was going great but i think i got a little too impatient when it came to let the orange paint dry before i applied the decal. Once i had the entire hood painted tan, i went to pull the decal off to reveal the orange and sadly, some of the orange paint and primer came off with the decal. The extra humidity that we've had down here lately doesn't help but this is something that i'll definitely be readdressing. For now, the hood has been placed out of the way along with the rest of the body panels, in a safe location....my guest room in the house. lol once i'm done with everything else on the truck, i'll install the panels. But i do think the hood will look great once its all said and done. Here is what she looked like after the decal was removed.



Once i come back from my trip, i plan to start the rebuild of the dana 300 so that i can get the tcase bolted back in along with the drive lines.

Here soon i'll have to start installing the propane tanks as well as the plumbing for it. I'm still trying to decide the best location for the "evaporator" and mixer. I know the mixer will be on the driver side nearish to the turbo. i was planning on using the old heater core coolant lines for the evaporator. I'd just have to find a location for it out of the way from the exhaust heat.

Speaking of the exhaust, i think i'm going to have to wrap the exhaust with header wrap. Initially, i wanted to use stainless piping and have it all nicely tig welded up but with how close the exhaust will run to the firewall as well as the clutch hydraulic line and other hoses, i may not have a choice but to wrap it. Then that will negate the point of having a nicely stainless exhaust tig'd up.

My plan to render the turbo piping in stainless is still a go though. As always, i'll be sure to update the thread with more progress and too many photos. lol
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2017, 12:53 PM   #315 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Update:

Made a little progress lately. Nothing special to note really but there has been several little things taken care of.

First and foremost, the dana 300 has been fully rebuilt and now the entire drive train is now in the truck and bolted together. This has been exciting for me since now i don't have to rely on the wheel chock for keeping the truck from moving.



Had to bend the shift levers for the dana 300 so that they don't hit the dash when in high range. The only issue now with them bent back like this, is that when they are in low range, the rear output knob touches the right rear cutting brake lever. This will be fixed once i bend the cutting brake levers to allow better clearance/room to reach the trans shifter.



The heater core is now plumbed to the firewall. I still have to take care of the plumbing of the heater core inside the cab, but the under hood portion is complete. i will still need to drill a hole for the heater control valve wiring connection to pass through but i'll address that along with the needed grommet when i'm working on the wiring of the truck.



I took care of a couple small things like the winch clutch disengage lever. In the back ground, you can see that the vaporizer is now bolted down in its new home as well.



The cutting brake lever is now mounted as well.



And mounting of the rear steer electric pump. i ended up cutting a piece of the UHMW material to be used as a sort of brace for the end of the pump/motor. I didn't have a lot of confidence in the mount since it had so much leverage against it with the weight of the motor hanging off so far on one end. I was concerned that while i'm bouncing around off road, that it would crack the mount or bracket.



The PSC power steering pump was finally bolted into its new home.



Although i don't have any pictures handy at the moment, i modified the Taurus fan shroud to fit the new radiator then mounted the radiator. I also placed the battery where it will be to get an over all idea on how much space i'll have. After mounting the propane tanks back in the bed, i won't have enough space to put my tool box back in but, i do have a big ammo can that i can use for some things. I'll try to source another ammo can and then that'll give me more space for fluids and recovery gear.



The item that i'm working on at the moment is the alternator mount. The alternator will have to be mounted backwards on the engine. I reached out to the local repair shop that rebuilds electric motors and alternators and they said it won't have any issue with the alternator spinning backwards to charge the battery.

I plan to have the truck fully plumbed steering and brake wise before i start working on the wiring. Which i'm hoping will start soon. I first need to decide on the hoses that i will use for the hydraulic steering lines.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2017, 05:42 PM   #316 (permalink)
Rock God
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 181868
Location: North Florida
Posts: 1,496
Looks good! It looks like the fan shroud makes the fan off center. (Low) it might be better to have it to the high side for free flow of air. (If your going to have ammo cans in front)
__________________
Project : Amphibious HEMTT


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
waterhorse is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-15-2017, 06:47 PM   #317 (permalink)
Wheeler
 
nwflyoda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 99136
Location: Navarre, Fl
Posts: 390
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterhorse View Post
Looks good! It looks like the fan shroud makes the fan off center. (Low) it might be better to have it to the high side for free flow of air. (If your going to have ammo cans in front)
Good eye, it certainly looks more offset than what it is. haha The fan is only off center within the shroud by 1" or so; so I'm not too terribly concerned about that. Plus, this is a dual pass radiator and the ammo cans won't be that close to the radiator. Should cool pretty good. I've been a big fan of running the taurus fans for a while and they certainly move some air.
__________________
My build:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
nwflyoda is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

** A VERIFICATION EMAIL IS SENT TO THIS ADDRESS TO COMPLETE REGISTRATION!! **

Email Address:
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.