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Old 01-24-2010, 08:23 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I'll take some shots of the factory tools tomorrow and post them up. We do sell quite a few of the specialty tools as long as they are still available from MB. In this case the factory tools are no longer available from MB. However, we do have a rental program that rents the factory hub puller and the installation tool for both the seal and the flange. It works well.

Personally if you have access, a 3 or 4 jaw hydraulic puller is a lot faster for removing the flange. I have not found any tool better than the factory tool for installing the seal and the flange. You must be careful, recently had a customer using a hydraulic puller and the flange was so frozen on that by the time they got it to release the puller had warped the flange. He was using a 2 jaw puller.

For the hub nut we use a 1" impact that pumps out about 2200 ft lbs. About 80% of the time it spins them free. For those that it doesn't....6-10' breaker bar with 325 lbs jumping on the end usually takes care of it.

About 10 years back I was watching an old German mechanic. He pounded down the locktab, and uncrewed the hub nut 1.5 turns, then hammered the lock tab back in place. I asked him what he was doing? He informed me that he was going to be replacing the seals in the next couple of weeks and wanted to break the flange free....his brother drove the truck back out of the shop for some trail fun. Didn't stick around to find out if it helped on the later maintenance job.

Cheers,

Scott Ingham
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:52 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Pictured are the MB factory tools.

Cone Puller - Mounts to the 6 studs on the flange. The foot PRESSES AGAINST THE FACE OF THE HUB GEAR. This is important as I cannot count the number of times people have called after they used a long screw going down through the center of the gear and break out the freeze plug at the base of the gear going into the box.

Seal Setting Race - Used in conjunction with the setting tool. Evenly sets the seal prior to the flange.

Seal/Flange Setting Tool - One end has the same thread as the hub bolt. You screw it in, then use the deeper threads and nut to press on the seal/flange. The hub uses a large roller bearing assembly between the setting nut and the flange or seal setting race.

As mentioned above, we are not a big fan of the cone puller when compared to a 20 or 30 ton 4 jaw puller. However, for re-assembly the factory tools are extremely controlled, smooth, and easy to use.

Cheers,

Scott Ingham
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:03 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Scott,

Thanks for the pics!

A couple of questions if you don't mind....


For the puller, since you don't seem to be impressed with the MB factory tool and I've seen a few homebrew designs here that seem to work fine, I may just build my own. The question is would it matter if I set it up to press against the inner splined area at the top of the hub, instead of trying to press from the very bottom of the hub the way the factory puller does?? I found that a 1-5/8" Socket flipped upside down drops into that area nicely (the socket has a step-cut shoulder that is about 1.8" across) and it seems like it would provide a nice tight fit and even pressure against the top area of the hub. Does this sound like a workable plan, or is there a pitfall to this method?

Second question: The installer seems to be the real "magic" tool from your description, both for the seal installation and the hub iteself. Is this one available for sale or rental from you? You can respond with the pricing via PM if you'd prefer.


Thanks!


-G
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:54 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I press on the splined end all the time. I fucked up one gear using the threads once, never again!
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:09 AM   #30 (permalink)
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We do rent the factory tools. I'll drop you a PM. Probably the biggest reason we are not that happy with the hub puller is simply the design and the wear and tear on the threads. I can get about 8 rentals before one of them is destroyed, normally the failure is the threads.

Pictured is the foot plate. This puts the force of the pull at the face of the gear. Notice the 4 sides are trimmed to clear the dowel pins if they are still installed. I would incorporate your puller to press at this same location and you should be good to go.

What I would like to find is a hydraulic jack that can operate in a horizontal position. That along with a basic fixture and a similar footplate would make up a nice puller, relatively inexpensively.

Cheers,

Scott
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:28 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weps View Post
I press on the splined end all the time. I fucked up one gear using the threads once, never again!
Keep in mind with the factory tool you are screwing the puller all the way into the gear, seating about 1.5" of thread, then using the threads of the pullers other end and the thrust bearing to seat the flange. I have definitely seen cases where the threads of the gear get hosed by people trying to seat the flange with the bolt by threading it into the threads in the gear. Normally they can pull out the first .25 - .5" of the threads.

About 70% of the time when we are doing this maintenance we are only replacing the output seal. (old trucks, old seals, starting to leak. The rest of the box is fine.) In this case dis-assembly of the HR to use the press costs $$ and parts. If the HR is dis-assembled already for a more complete rebuild, then there is no reason why a good press can't handle the whole dis-assembly and re-assembly.

Cheers,

Scott Ingham
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:47 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Well, how about a quick game of....... FAIL!!!




I took a chance building my own hub puller tonight. Hopeful that I'd be able to cut up an otherwise useless drum brake and get a quick bolt-on ring for my puller, I fired up the plasma cutter and welder and hoped for the best.

No luck. There's not enough "steel" in those drums and the no matter how hot I made the welds they just wouldn't hold. Every time I'd thread the bolt down to apply pressure, there would be a loud metallic "CLANK" and one of the welds would crack right off at the base. Oh well... looks like I'll have to make my own ring from scratch and drill out the holes for the lugnuts myself.

Thought everyone could use a laugh tonight.


-G
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:46 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Aren't the drums cast steel?
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:50 PM   #34 (permalink)
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It sure looked like it to me....

But when the welds failed it pulled up some of the base metal of the drum and it was really "grainy" looking at the failure point. I'm sure the metallurgy includes steel but clearly it must contain other materials not compatible with MIG.

Maybe some sort of arc welding with a special rod would have worked.... but I was trying to work quickly with the materials and tools I had available.


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Old 01-27-2010, 11:13 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Aren't the drums cast steel?
Usually cast iron I believe.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:11 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Saw this on another site. Work with what you got I guess.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:35 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I like that. I wonder if it works.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:00 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Usually cast iron I believe.
maybe try preheating before welding with a torch. I think there are some links on here about welding cast iron.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:36 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Old 10-08-2010, 10:27 AM   #40 (permalink)
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This how I took a set apart. I was lucky and one hub didnt put up much of a fight. The piece in the middle is just the plate from my floor jack.
I would put about 200ftlbs on the bolts then tap the taperd part of the hub and it would pull off.
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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mine worked great, i used the 20t jack from my china frieght shop press it fit perfect, a couple taps to break loose, no problem. each hub took about 2 min.




oh ya, i have all the mog brake parts for 4 corners, and a set of mog wheels for sale.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=92707


/forum/axles-tires-wheels-sale/923550-4-flipped-center-stock-20-unimog-wheels-locks-500-a.html
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:52 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Now that I've gone to an 8-Lug Chevy setup from eXaXt, the old 6-lug puller doesn't do me much good anymore...

Here's a shot of the new one I built using all the lessons learned from my previous failed attempts!







-G
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