Got axles?

[Cajun]

I'm so fired up that there will be a place for 'Mog tech here!

In the meantime...






These will be going under my CJ/YJ thing sometime in the future. Gotta build a shop to work on it first!

[MOGXJ44]

Pics on their way. So anybody got a shop I can borrow some space?

[ItsaCJ6]

those are sweet portals what did you have to pay for them and where did ya have them set up?

[coachgeo]

Hoooley axles batman

Them brake upgrades make me sweat... I wanna I wannaaa

[Cajun]

ItsaCJ6 I got the axles and the custom brake work all from Don Henry. Great craftsmanship, very good to do business with. He goes by taradon on this bbs.

Mine were the 2nd ones he did, after his own, so his prices may or may not have changed. I don't want to give you the wrong info, so give him a shout. They're not cheap, but it's a very good price for what you get. My 2 fronts to my door weren't anywhere near what a pair of 60's from Dyantrac run, and I have no doubt that I'm getting A LOT more axle for my money.

[Justin Messer]

Those are damn nice.
Are you going for rear steer?
What wheels are you going to have to use?
Ditto for the Suspension.
Is there a write up of detailed specs for portal axles like those?
What is your address and when will the axles be left alone

[Cajun]

Yes I'm going rear steer. As for wheels, I'm using hummer beadlocks. I'm going to cut the centers out and have new ones fabbed locally to fit the 'Mog bolt pattern. Backspacing shouldn't be an issue for fitment, but I may or may not reduce the backspacing depending on overall width. I'm shooting for 80-85" or so.

For suspension, I'd love to go coilover, but they're just so expensive. I'll probably end up going coils, I've talked to people that have had good results with stock ZJ or TJ coils. I'll probably just make a pass through the junkyard and get a whole gang of different kinds (in sets of 4, of course) and see which ones work the best.

I'm planning on using 4 links front and rear, similar to what Toy Family has on his new buggy. As long as I keep the triangulated links from interfering with the driveshaft during articulation, I shouldn't have any problems, correct? I'm concerned because of the offset of the rear diff. Or would I be better off using a non-triangulated 4 link and a track bar (like the '94-'00 Dodge 4x4 front end)?

[Justin Messer]

Hmmm... leaves you with some intersting possibilities and challenges too.
For my money I would CAD design it and cycle before I even fired up the welder.
Or at least get a very experienced susp. designers opinion. Lots of guys have done this type of thing (although maybe not with portals) so you shouldnt have any problem.
For the t-case. Are you going to use a offset rear output, like the Spicer 18? Either way I love offset rear diffs because you always know where to aim the big rocks going underneath.

I like F150 coils. Just my .02

Go 1/4 ellip in th rear. Its just as difficult as coils and probably as cheap. As long as you make your own spring packs and fab it yourself. All the link concerns are basically the same.
Good luck and show some pictures of the buildup.

[Cajun]

Yes, the project will most definitely provide me with MANY interesting possibilities and challenges! I think I'm as excited about building it as I am about wheeling it.

Depending on what the driveshaft angles look like when I mock it up, I may offset the engine and drivetrain to the passenger side. However, if the angles are acceptable, I'll leave it centered. I figure that as long as the angles are cool, it dosen't matter if they're down or sideways. (compound angles, if you will) The CV joints don't know which way is up.

I'm going Atlas II for the T-case, period.

Why 1/4 elliptical over coils?

[Justin Messer]

"I'm going Atlas II for the T-case, period.

Why 1/4 elliptical over coils?"

I agree with t-case choice especially since you have obviouly invested in bombproof parts already.

As for susp. I thought about it, and youre right. IMO if you use coils in front, use coils in the rear. Make them the same ones and you would always only need one type of spare.
The same goes for 1/4 ellip. though. If you do it in the back, then do it in the front. AKA the Sniper suspension setup. Again you would only need one typ of spare parts.

I guess that I just like the bracketry and design of a 1/4 ellip. better than coils.
But you know what, its your rig, so do it the way you like it.
Either way its going to be

[Spankbomb]

Cajun,

Why did you stay with the Mog bolt pattern? Wouldn't have been easier to convert to a standard 8 bolt pattern at this time?

BTW, love the axles.

[Cajun]

I stayed with the 'Mog bold pattern because it was cheaper to fab new centers for my hummer beadlocks then to have the conversion to 8 on 6.5" done, and because this way saves me 2" in total width.

[MOGXJ44]

What BS are you going to go with for the Hummer wheels? And are you going to widen them at all? What size tire?
Travis,
Mogified XJ

[Spankbomb]

Originally posted by Cajun
I stayed with the 'Mog bold pattern because it was cheaper to fab new centers for my hummer beadlocks then to have the conversion to 8 on 6.5" done, and because this way saves me 2" in total width.

Cool. Never have thought about it that way.

[Cajun]

Travis,

I don't plan on changing the backspacing unless I have to. During a "test fitting" there weren't any clearance problems, granted there was probably 1.5" of wheelstud in the way, but I didn't see anywhere that was even close. I'd like my overall width to be between 80" and 85". I figure that's wide enough for stability and narrow enough not to hang up on everything down here, so I may decrease the backspacing to get there.

I'll be running 42"x15" TSLs, so there's no reason for me to widen the wheel. They work fine.

[Sillyneck]

where'd the disks come from? I kinda read the post but didn't see anything about them.

[Cajun]

The disks are Wilwood units, 13.7" diameter.

[taradon]

The Rotors are custom made, 13.7", cross drilled, the calipers are wilwood 4 piston racing units.

Don Henry

[stonpny]

Do you have contact info?

[CaptainFleXJ151]

Taradon - Are you associated with Exaxt? A friend of mine is planning on purchasing axles from them, but if you can do it cheaper then he would be all for it. Contact info. would be nice!
Also, why 4 piston calipers? You have no need for that sort of thing, unless you are running laps in your 4x4 at high speed. Maybe I'm missing something. And also, does the brake kit bolt on or do you have to machine the hub?

[Cajun]

Originally posted by CaptainFleXJ151
...why 4 piston calipers?...

Why not?

[taradon]

Hi There, you can email me at taradon@uniserve.com or you can phone during the day or most evenings at (604) 828 7795.

I am not a part of exaxt, I have my own disc brake conversion.

I use Wilwood 4 piston calipers because then I don't have deal with a sliding caliper, because they have tons of clamping force, there are like 10 different kinds of brake pad materials to choose from, and they only weigh a couple of pounds.

Don henry

[road1will]

Originally posted by GollyGwagen
I wanted (and still want) Mog axles under my Gwagen. All in the family you know. ;-)

I was told that Mog axles rotate backwards of normal axles. You appear to be running fronts on both ends, so I obviously have no idea how that works since it seems like they would want to travel away from eachother. I don't want rear steer, so can I just put Mog front and rear axles under my truck and make it work?

The other question is can you reach highway speeds running anything smaller than 42's?!?

hey Q, i dunno who told you about the running backwards thing but that is just plain WRONG.

and as to the highway speeds, i wouldnt run them at highway speeds anyways, because the bearings and lube systems in the mogs were not designed to be run at above 59mph

seriously, you risk bearings seizing at any significant speed.

so until you are ready to make your G a dedicated trail machine, i think that you would be better off swapping in some D44s or something of the like.

[m016324]

actually the bearing and lube system in the transmission is the problem and they are actually bushings not bearings so running the axles are not a problem. You can run the tranny up to 55 all day but much past that you are probably going to burn up the bushings. There are kits to change them out to bearings and emilinate the problem but who wants to drive much faster than that in a mog anyway? And what you probably heard q was the front ujs on the axles look like they are running backwards when the truck is going down the road but that's not actually the case just looks funny.

-ben

[CaptainFleXJ151]

From what I understand the Unimog's differential spins in reverse, but the portal hubs turn it back the other direction. Anyone else on this one?

P.S. Can someone fill me in on why those rotors are not vented?? Are they for off-road use only?