Mog-9 Build Thread.... !!! PICS !!!

[Greg72]

The plates are 1.5" cold rolled steel milled in some crazy HAAS walk-in type machine

I bought a set of the MSI boxes a few years ago so I think I've got most of the weak links covered now?

[YELLOWHOBO]

Yah, you got them covered... your rig is going to be really nice!

Only thing that I can think of is the CV joint will be the weakest link for you now. You might be able to machine those ears out of some exoticly strong material since you have done everthing else.

I'm jealous!

[tjmark]

Originally Posted by YELLOWHOBO

Yah, you got them covered... your rig is going to be really nice!

Only thing that I can think of is the CV joint will be the weakest link for you now. You might be able to machine those ears out of some exoticly strong material since you have done everthing else.

I'm jealous!

Are people breaking Cv's? Only thing yet to not break on mine.

[YELLOWHOBO]

Yah, I've broken a couple, but I clearance the middle ring and the ears for more steering and I compete in a couple of rock crawling series where they make us do some funny stuff (ie: big drop-offs and throttle happy climbs). Still, if I have done it 2 times... it can happen. Both times have been done in a comp - never on the trail...

[Greg72]

OK, Here are a few new photo updates now that I have those adapters in my own shop...


In position to show where they attach to the portal backing plate.




Overall shot of the 404 Portal / Exaxt 8-Lug Disc Brake combo / and Adapter:



I only used a 3/8" spacer (not the 1" spacer as provided by Exaxt) and ended up with a 15.875" height from cement floor to underside of the level.


Spidertrax axle cut-down to 50.875" (inner plate to inner plate) with the new adapters installed. This will give me a final WMS-to-WMS measurement of 70.625"




I decided not to align the pinion (.94" offset) to the transfercase output shaft. The axle is completely symmetrical from side to side. All of the feedback I solicited from various people and manufacturers said that it won't make any difference to the operation and won't create any weird vibes on the highway....

And in case any of you are wondering, here is a recent shot of the project vehicle that it's being built for... 1972 Chevy Blazer

[zebrajeep]

Nice! Sweet build. Subscribed.

[jays68yak]

I always tend to forget that your building a badass blazer in your garage.

[Greg72]

Yakkers,

What I wouldn't give for about 1000 sq ft of dedicated shop space right about now.....

It gets really tiring having to constantly fight for space to get things done. I think my efficiency is down to about 30% of what it could be if I had the room to spread out more and maybe squeeze a 2-post lift in somewhere.

[MNtal]

Greg72,

Very awsome, I really enjoy reading your tech, thank you...

Geoff,

[jays68yak]

Originally Posted by Greg72

Yakkers,

What I wouldn't give for about 1000 sq ft of dedicated shop space right about now.....

It gets really tiring having to constantly fight for space to get things done. I think my efficiency is down to about 30% of what it could be if I had the room to spread out more and maybe squeeze a 2-post lift in somewhere.

Ah the single life with a 2 car garage. But yeah 1000 sq ft would be way nicer then 400sq ft. sq ftage goes quick when you gotta have the tools, storage, and the vehicle. Not to mention having some working room. What about another project to side line you and add on to the garage?

[Greg72]

Originally Posted by jays68yak

What about another project to side line you and add on to the garage?

That's the plan.....I've already got the money saved up to do it.

My S.O. indicates that my priorities are completing the living room / dining room and kitchen remodels FIRST.....and THEN we can start blowing out the garage to add a 3rd bay and workshop space (with a luxurious 2-post lift).

Believe me, I'm extremely motivated to get the house projects done so I can get some REAL workspace for myself. But like you said, the actual truck build will end up mothballed for at least 6 months while the new shop gets built and finished-out.

[Greg72]

Does anyone have an accurate dimensioned drawing of the Ford 9" ???

Here is my best attempt to measure off a scale-drawing and pull the pinion offset dimension (horizontal and vertical).....

[jays68yak]

Originally Posted by Greg72

Does anyone have an accurate dimensioned drawing of the Ford 9" ???

Here is my best attempt to measure off a scale-drawing and pull the pinion offset dimension (horizontal and vertical).....

http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/re...-third-member/

Ive used that several times. Have a few 9 inches modeled semi-completely off of it. Also made a measuring tool with that file and the plasma.

[Triaged]

On a ford 9" the hypoid offset is 2-1/4" (from axle centerline down to pinion centerline). The other I think is 15/16". If you need something more accurate I could look it up.

[Greg72]

Some recent mock-ups trying to effectively integrate an axle truss, plus upper & lower link mounts and a coil over mount in a small amount of space....















I've got 10" of link separation between the uppers and lowers, (pretty good) but I'm still trying to add as much gusseting as possible to anchor that tall upper link mount. Ultimately, I think it will get that same triangular gusseting on both sides....these photos currently only show one one the pumpkin side.

[wanna]

looks good i see you used part numbers BRCLS-7-RM and BRCLS-6-RM for your calipers whats the part number for the disc brake rotors? Australia's so fun for getting parts

[Greg72]

The rotors were Motorcraft also..... here's a clip from the original order from racepages.com

Brake Disc 1995 - 1998
Ford F-250 Motorcraft Brake Disc F-250 Motorcraft Price: $ 79.18 Qty: 2.00 Part #: MIBRR4


Hope that helps!


-G

[wanna]

perfect thankyou

[Slowerthanu]

Awesome project, very clean workspace.

I'm only disappointed that I came into this project halfway (not even) through. Now I have to wait.

[Greg72]

Appreciate the kind words...

I'd like to make some better progress also. Too many home improvement projects are queued-up right now and with a new baby in the house there just aren't many hours left these days.

I've got a birthday coming up in the next few weeks, so I'm going to be campaigning for a couple days of "shop time"... hopefully that will allow me to get the rear truss built in steel and tack-welded in place.

That would allow me to reconnect the link mounts and maybe throw a couple of solid tubes where the ORIs are supposed to be, and get the truck sitting under it's own weight (in the rear at least)

[postaldave]

some people are so skilled I wonder why they even buy axles, clearly
they can build what ever they want and can't leave anything they buy as it is.

wicked cool build. thumbs up

[Greg72]

Quick update......

Not much happening in the workshop these days, but I was at least able to transfer my foam core templates into 1/4" plate and get them tacked onto the housing. Some recent feedback has shown me that my original placement of the lower strut mount is NOT going to work without interference, so that is going to need to be redesigned.



I'm trying to build the truss using the "Corner-to-corner" method with the individual plates. It makes it impossible to weld them together unless you have something to clamp all the parts to so that they will stay in place for alignment and tack welding...



Fitment took forever, but I was able to keep the gaps really small everywhere, even as the truss traveled over the complex bump-formed housing



The inside of the truss lines up with the mounting face of the 3rd member so everything will stay nice and flush...



The beginning of my upper link mount bracket...

[jrod66]

when I originally did my 404 axle swap I had my lower link mounts inline with the axle housing like you have now, but I ended up dropping the mounting hole and ultimately the link mount because of axle wrap and the leverage that the boxes have on the axle due to the portal design, From the looks of your fab skills and design you probably already thought of it, but just an FYI

[Greg72]

We covered some of those topics / concerns around post 60, and then again around 112.

Some people insist that the lower link mount needs to be below the axle tube, but my assertion is that it has a lot more to do with link separation (the largest you can fit) than the specific link position on the axle tube.

For sure, there are some big forces with all that gear reduction... So as I'm sure you've noticed, I'm building the bracketry out of 1/4" in most places and in some spots I'm laminating it as thick as 1/2" to reinforce bolt holes, etc. I definitely don't want to have to go back later and rebuild these hangers and brackets!

-G

[fcfred]

any updates?