88 D50 build dual cases 38" sx's - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:27 AM   #1 (permalink)
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88 D50 build dual cases 38" sx's

It took me a while to decide where to put this build since I have had Samurais, Sidekicks, Chevy trucks, Jeeps, a 4Runner and a LX450; each have taught me quite a bit about building and wheeling. Of course I have learned a lot from Pirate and other boards too. Since it is a Dodge Ram 50/Mitsu Mighty Max I decided this section. Back in 1988 by buddy in California bought this truck brand new while he was in the Air Force. When I saw it I said "if you get rid of it let me know..." And 2004 he did. At that time I put 17" Escalade rims and tires on it and drove it:



It was like a go kart, not super fast but fun as hell to drive! After one summer of it like that I decided to make it 4wd and bought full width D44 axles, gears, a spool and a locker. I put Wrangler leafs in the front and bolted on some 35" MTR's. I also cut the rocker off and welded in some 2x3 tubing and built an external cage. My first attempt (which you can tell):





Then it sat for some time as I had a daughter which kept me very busy. I cut off the exo and sold that. Sold the 35's and scraped the full width/leaf spring front end. While wheeling an open buggy (samurai) when I could I knew if she was to go along I would need a cab of some sort. So I started over on the truck. Here is what I have for parts at this time and the build plan:

38" Super Swampers SX's
15x8 stock chevy rally wheels that will get weld on bead locks
3 link front with panhard bar
full hydro steering, implement ram and orbital, jeep cherokee p.s. pump, Chevy Astro van reservoir and big cooler
Stock D50 leafs in the rear
narrowing front
bobbing bed 12-14"
D44's from a Jeep cherokee
spool, 5.89:1
elocker in front
discs in the rear
opening up the fenders (of course) for flex keeping it as low as possible/practical
Pro Comp 14" shocks all the way around with 2.5" coil springs in the front
OR 14" coil overs in the front...
Nissan divorced transfer case, stock gears 2:1 low
Samurai divorced transfer case, 4:1 gears
flat belly
custom transfercase mount(s)
exo cage with front "A" pillar tubes tucked into front fenders
rear section in bed with set for passengers and cage protection
a tool/parts/recovery spot that is covered and lockable

I have narrowed the front end 14" (ultra ghetto style fab):





Here is a pic of the dual transfer case set:



and the front end mocked up, links are angled too much. I was trying to run the coils under the frame rails:



Now I will set them off to the side and it is sitting on the tires, trim fenders and frame is at 23"



The front end is out that far to clear the oil pump and pan; I can't move the drive train back because at this point I will have a 55" drive shaft with a hanger bearing.
I borrowed a set of coil overs for mock up and will be working on that today. I ordered the bushings and mounts for the t-case bracketry and should have it next week. Here is a pic of my buddy fucking with me:



He wants me to get it ready to go out to M O A B... not going to happen
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Looking good bro. Get it done before August!
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looking good, I like what you've done with it. It kind of inspires me to finish mine.
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1985 Mitsubishi Pickup, 2.3 H.O. Turbo Diesel, Watercooled Turbo, ported and polished 4D56 Head with Roller Rockers, Custom '83 Injection pump, JK Rubicon axles w/elockers and disc brakes, 14" Fox Coilovers, Centerforce II, 5.0 Atlas II, ARB Bull Bar, 33x12.50x17 General Grabber Competition tires
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you for the compliment. I did get a chance to get to work on the truck this weekend, after measuring a million times and checking angles, level etc I started tacking the lower links, top link, panhard bar and upper/lower link mounts on the frame. Here are some pics (poor quality, sorry):





I may have to put a slight bend in the panhard bar to clear the dif cover. The large triangler mount on the draglink is for the hydraulic steering mount. The lower links are almost level, but will be angled up slightly as I build a new transmission crossmember that will hold the upper and lower link frame mounts (raising the lower mounts up to avoid hanging them up on rocks), the hanger bearing for the front drive shaft, transmission and make room for exhaust. Everything is just tacked as I cycle the suspension. I have 5" of up travel on the passenger side and I plan to raise the engine 2" to gain another 2" of up travel. The drivers side top link hits the current engine mount so that will have to be modified before I can cycle that side. I am going to run coilover shocks (FOA's) and they will be through the inner fender up to the cage inside the engine bay. I will start bending tube soon.

I do have some questions about the 2.0 engine, I am planning on replacing the timing belt and wondering about the counter balance shaft. I read somewhere about removing it? Is it necessary? What are the pros/cons of leaving it or removing it? Also does anyone know of a remote oil filter for this engine? Any input is grately appreciated.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Nice!

I don't know about the 5.89s, though. I run 5.38s in my Currie D44s with 35"s on a Sport that tops out at 6700lbs. Never had a problem but I have a reverse HP in the front of mine with monster shafts and I'm real carefull with the gas pedal.

I seriously thought about 5.89s in my new build and started doing some research. The general opinion from everyone I've talked to including Currie and Dynatrac was there wasn't enough pinion/ring gear tooth contact when you start getting into gears that deep.

For what it's worth, I did know a guy that tried this with a bob'd Toy pickup here about 10 years ago and his had problems. Even with a light vehicle and a 4-cylinder he still broke axle parts on a regular basis.

My 2 cents worth: You'll be running close to my t-case gearing at 8:1. I run 10.88:1. That gearing will DEFINITELY overcome the force needed to turn the tires but if there's a weak spot in the middle somewhere you're going to find it really fast.

I did the math on my Sport. Stock was something like 1400 ft/lbs with the stock 1.92 t-case, 5-speed and stock 6G72 6-cylinder to the pinion. With the 10.88 it was 8000 ft/lbs.

My guestimate is you'll take some teeth off even before you break a u-joint (which is usually what you want to have happen). I know the drop in gearing would be great but it'd suck to blow a set of gears.

Edward
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'03 Montero Sport Limited 3.5 AWD

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Old 03-05-2012, 03:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Edward, thanks for the info. I have ran the same gearsets in these axles for 5 years and they were used by my friend under a 2 door sidekick 8v prior to that with 4:1 t-case gears who beat them senseless and broke axle shafts but no ring and pinions. I do hear you, I know anything can be broken and I will be running more gearing than he did (or I did before) and that can lead to more damage. I don't pound on rigs that much so they should last a while. Thanks again, Jeff
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't either which is probably why I haven't busted a gear yet. At least that's everyone's theory. I wussed out and settled on the JK axle; it won't take anything lower then 5.38. I'd love to see how this work out, though. I won't be ordering axles until June so there's still time to change my mind (yet again). LOL!

Your's is going to be nice when it's done, though!!

BTW, I just posted up my new build. Keep us posted on the 3-link. That's new terratory for me. Did you run your 3-link through Dan's 3-link calculator? Just curious.

Edward
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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That's new terratory for me. Did you run your 3-link through Dan's 3-link calculator?
It is new to me too, I haven't run it through yet, I need to get all my measurements, study the theory and then I will.
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