My cobbled together way over timeline sas swapped 4x4 converted 94 mighty max

[nissancam]

So now that it was standing on all 4's I could start to mount everything. Since the factory motor mounts were built into the front crossmember and that is long gone we had to make our own. The block side of the mount is stock we then cut out a new plate to mount to the factory mount then a piece of 1/4 wall 2x2 square connected the factory mount to the frame

[88_Pathy]

The garage comment was pretty funny.

[nissancam]

At least i can actually work in my garage

[nissancam]

Well back to "tech". So the motor is mounted on to the tranny and t case, I wasn't sure what needed to be done with the tranny mount due to the t case being so far away and having such a long drive shaft so I started with the case mount. I started with a ott t case mount.


I then took a piece of 1 1/2 tube and welded on some bushings



So now that the back was taken care of it was on to the front since the case is divorce mounted, what I came up with is a 3/16 plate that mounted to the OTT divorce adapter then bent up some more tubing, added another bushing and it turned out like this


The brackets are 1/4 inch tabs from ballistic, I did add a gusset to the rear mount. Then painted everything, I will get some finished pics tommorow.

[Guns_and_Roses]

I like the black paint!

[nissancam]

Are you reffering to the factory pewter gray of the truck or the semi-gloss black that everyone else has on their frames?

[88mitsu]

I like the steering angles, bumpsteer sucks! I also like the low stance.

Are you planning to trailer it or drive it to the trail?

[nissancam]

Does my bump steer angles suck or bump steer in general? If mine suck what would you change. It will be semi street legal but hopefully i can get a trailer soon so i can just tow it. So when i do break it it wont be as bad.

[88mitsu]

No the angles look good. Add a sway bar and it should ride great on the street.

Good luck covering up those tires to be legal though.

[nissancam]

Yea i really need to get new rims and will help a lot

[Raole Duke]

Update???

[Raole Duke]

Originally Posted by Raole Duke

Update???

Well??? Let's see some progress on this.

[nissancam]

I figured all lost intrest i will get some more pics and updates soon

[4D55 Performance Inc]

Originally Posted by nissancam

I figured all lost intrest i will get some more pics and updates soon

Nope, we're still watchin'.

[MudRaider]

Yep, just waiting for more work.

[Raole Duke]

Sooooooo...






wassup? Where are those update pics?

[nissancam]

I am getting married in May and have been planning that, trust me i would much rather be working on the truck. I have been doing some stuff and hopefully i can get a bunch more done since i have back to back 3 day weekends coming up, got to love government jobs! I will snap some picks

[Rockrenegade]

Cool build. Just read your whole thread and had a couple questions/comments. Why not Toyota axels? If you gear that case that d44 will never hold up, no matter how much you spend on it. You can buy a fully built set of yota axels used, for a g and they will never break given your tire size. Do your self a favor and build some good lower links now. Breaking on the trail sucks. Especially if you have to drive it home. All you need is the dom,2 more joints or just some hard mount bushings for the axel end. Then when you decide to link the front you will only need to build some .120 wall uppers. If you want to shorten up your drive train, get rid of your drive shaft between the tranny and t-case. Just run 1 u-joint between the tranny slip and the flange on the ott adapter. Worked great for me. I'n case you didn't know, you can swap a 4g63t head with turbo, exuaste and intake onto your 4g64 block. Your stock mighty max computer will handle it and you will have around 230hp. Just some food for thought. P.s. Go dials before gearing that case. Roughly the same price, but lower gearing with duals and better gear selection. If you do go duals, make sure you install a chromo output!

[nissancam]

Ok havent actually worked on it much but have been collecting some new parts i got a killer deal on a dual case setup and twin sticks so things are getting moved around.

As I said all this was originally going under a Nissan Frontier so Toyota axles would be to narrow with out spacers which I hate, also i am not a fan of closed knuckle axles or birfs.

I have read tons of info on the head swap and if I was going to do that I would switch to the narrow block so I could use the Toyota tranny, and I want to keep it semi street legal so I am going to run a rear mount turbo.

[Rockrenegade]

Right on. You will be happy with your twin stick cases. I agree with the 4g63/toyota tranny option. But just so you know. You should be able to swap that Mitsu tranny tail housing with a jeep aw4 tail housing, without changing the tail shaft. Might be cheaper for a jeep to Toyota t-case adapter than a Mitsu to Toyota bell housing adapter. Plus you would have the option to run a Dana300/atlas t-case without any adapters in the future. Which Will be needed if you tune your engine to anything above 200hp.

[twistedyota]

Originally Posted by Rockrenegade

Cool build. Just read your whole thread and had a couple questions/comments. Why not Toyota axels? If you gear that case that d44 will never hold up, no matter how much you spend on it. You can buy a fully built set of yota axels used, for a g and they will never break given your tire size. Do your self a favor and build some good lower links now. Breaking on the trail sucks. Especially if you have to drive it home. All you need is the dom,2 more joints or just some hard mount bushings for the axel end. Then when you decide to link the front you will only need to build some .120 wall uppers. If you want to shorten up your drive train, get rid of your drive shaft between the tranny and t-case. Just run 1 u-joint between the tranny slip and the flange on the ott adapter. Worked great for me. I'n case you didn't know, you can swap a 4g63t head with turbo, exuaste and intake onto your 4g64 block. Your stock mighty max computer will handle it and you will have around 230hp. Just some food for thought. P.s. Go dials before gearing that case. Roughly the same price, but lower gearing with duals and better gear selection. If you do go duals, make sure you install a chromo output!

Originally Posted by Rockrenegade

Right on. You will be happy with your twin stick cases. I agree with the 4g63/toyota tranny option. But just so you know. You should be able to swap that Mitsu tranny tail housing with a jeep aw4 tail housing, without changing the tail shaft. Might be cheaper for a jeep to Toyota t-case adapter than a Mitsu to Toyota bell housing adapter. Plus you would have the option to run a Dana300/atlas t-case without any adapters in the future. Which Will be needed if you tune your engine to anything above 200hp.

Wow buddy you must read some weird stuff, for starters there is no reason a 44 cant be built to hold up to 35s, especially if he spends the grand you suggest to replace them with toyota axles. Secondly what do you mean build real links now and just add uppers when he wants to link it... If he looses the radius arms then he has to three or four link it(or go to leaves), end of story... And if you want him to just use the lower part of the arm and DOM the rest why would he do that if he is eventually going to link it? the links would be to short to reuse and he would have to re buy the tubing and bungs anyway... In regards to cromo output guess you better pm the tens of thousands of people that run duals and have never had an issue. And lastly you think that a 2wd tranny from the mighty max with an atlas behind it is a good idea? and needed for 200 hp? the toyota trans and tcases will hold 200 hp no problem no to mention that an atlas behind that tranny would be retardedly overkill, and expensive.

[Rockrenegade]

Yes I read a lot. But I've wheeled a lot and all my friends have built capable rigs a few times now. Just trying to shed light on a couple things that he should do instead of wishing he would have done. Whats the differance between a radious arm and a lower link, besides strength. For your information, he could build real, strong lower links/radius arms long enough to doulbe as lower links on the four link he's going to build in the future. Geometry numbers only matter in the rear anyway because the rear pushes and the front pulls. Anti squat feffers to forces trying to push the truck.
Second you can build a Toyota axle stronger than a d44. The week link is the housing. The third can't handle a 40" tire though. A used, fully built set of Toyota axels can be had for a g.
Third you can only gear a axel so much so you need to gear the case's right? And so when you have a good set of axels with limitted gearing the next week link is going to be the case/cases. Because all the stress is on the rear case not the front one, you are going to break a output. It happens all the time even on 35's, and especially with a geared single case or duals. My cousin had the best toyota cases money could buy only to start breaking housings. That was with 4:10's and 42's, 60's exct. Toyota cases seriously holding up to 200hp reliably, I doubt it. Buy the time you build those cases you could buy a atlas. Because a mighty max tranny is capable of bolting to a atlas/dana300 why not just get one and run it forever. The tranny would hold up fine, the axels and case see all the stresses of wheeling.

[twistedyota]

Going to have to disagree with you. The difference between a radius arm and a lower links is that radius arms handle all the rotational forces. If he builds a full tube arm and slices on the stock C's when he cuts them off to add bungs for flex joints they will be to short. And if your thinking about jeep style arms then he would still have to build upper link mounts and has the same amount of work as three linking it? In regards to housing strength, you are the first person I have heard of that thinks the toyota housing is stronger than a dana housing, I have run toyota axles on my junk and I love them but they are narrow and have supper thin sheet metal housings, his 44 has 3/8 wall tubes and much beffier center section. Please don't use a rig on 60s and 42's to determine if a Toyota case will hold up on 35s, just not a fair comparison. At that level then an atlas would be something to consider. And just fyi the tranny still sees stress when wheeling, not as much as whats behind the gear reduction but enough that there is potential for breakage and that potential goes up alot if the rig had bullet proof axles and tranfercase. and no a toy case will not reliably hold up to 200 hp on a rig with 60's, huge tires and hard wheeling but again not an apples to apples comparison.

[Rockrenegade]

You completely misunderstood everything I was trying to say. But that's alright. To the person who started this thread. Your stock engine is enough to do everything that you want to do. It's already comperable to a 2rz/3rz. Your 4g64 is over 150hp stock. With minor up grades, using stock 4g63t parts (head swap with turbo) you will be around 50hp more than if you do a 4g63 swap which is 200hp. The 4g63 is still a good swap in my opinion. Just more expensive due to the bellhousing adapter to Toyota tranny. Because you can already bolt other cases to the stock mitsu tranny by switching the tailhousing. But whatever. As long as you keep your tires bellow 40" your cases should hold up fine. People break stock outputs all the time on 35's and 37's but on bullet proof yota axels. You will break shafts, u-joints and 3rds before a case just because its d44. Switch the out put before installing your cases though. Or at least take a couple stock spares. When you break one on the trail it is a 8hr job to get your rig moving.
It would be wise to atleast 3link the front right now. If I were you I would go straight to the 4link with full hydro steering. Better ride stronger steering on the trail. Hydro assist is better than a unassisted box but still is rough on the trail.
A Toyota axel is stronger in every way except the housing, as I previously stated.
I know you are planning on only running 35's. I have a feeling that that will go out the window after you actually start wheeling this thing. I'd be surprised if you arnt trying to run 40's I'n years time, or wishing you could.
As far as me comparing 60's, 42's to this build. I think it's relevant because all that carnage that happened every trip for 6 trips was with stock worn out 22re power (120 hp max)
Trannys see most abuse when the t-case is in high range. Due to the fact that the case is not releaving any stress through gearing. Just passing it on to the tranny, to do all the work. Same reason why when you gear axels, cases it's almost impossible to stall the engine. The engine doesn't see very much load. Prob won't matter with 35's until you are trying to haul ass through the desert ect.
Just my opion based on my rig building and wheeling experiences. Still a cool build either way.

[nissancam]

Well its been "done" for awhile now and has been out a couple time, besides the normal new truck bugs everthing has worked great. The first run out the only thing that broke was a I lost a u joint cap on the front drive shaft. But i did find one big problem, the steering pump squiled like a stuck pig. I started looking at new pumps and they wanted $180 bucks for one. Hell no am I paying that kind of money for that tiny pump. I went through my spare parts and a sagnaw style pump off an old Chevy 350, a couple modifications to the brackets and a new powersteering pressure line, since the stock line had a banjo fitting and the new pump had a oring style and I was good to go. I will take a picture of the bracket when I get home.