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#1 (permalink) |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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"Evil Twin" Samurai Twin Stick $140 shipped to the lower 48!
"Evil Twin" Samurai Twin Stick $140 with free shipping to the lower 48!
I am now selling the transmission tunnel boot for an additional $20. This is my cost on these, they are custom made by my local interior shop and are very high quality. Order here using a credit card or paypal www.zukeviltwin.com In stock now and ready to ship!. ![]() ![]() This is a premium quality twin stick for your Suzuki Samurai! This kit is made up of: *Super strong shift levers made from 4340 alloy steel *Machined billet aluminum bushing (replaces t-case shift seat) *two shift handles. Handles need to be bent to shape and welded in place for your particular application. *Two comfort grip knobs *Dowel pin *Rubber O ring *Transmission tunnel boot - optional You must remove your shift rail interlock ball from the t-case prior to using this kit. A lower shift boot is not included, but we are working on one and will offer it to our customers at cost when it's done. In the meantime, a heavy duty rubber glove is very effective at sealing it up. I will post up pics later this week of the complete unit. If you want the cure for insomnia, you can read the build thread here http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=548136 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 90656
Location: The OC, California
Posts: 24
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Additional assembly instructions
For those of you who do not (or did not) need instructions, we sent out the pre-ordered "Evil Twin" kits this week without instructions so that you would have the kits in hand and could begin to assemble, install, and enjoy them. The "quick and dirty" instructions above in this thread should help you to assemble your kit.
A couple of things to note in addition to the instructions in the thread: 1) Do not confuse the left and right hand levers - they are different and will only fit one way. The right hand lever is the one with the notch in it. The notch faces forward. 2) Be certain to remove the shift sheet - the bushing will not seat in the shift tower unless you do this. 3) The O-ring goes inside of the stock shift retainer cup and is designed to apply upward spring pressure to the cup so that it will lock in place. 4) When welding the handles to the levers, make certain that the diagonal chamfer at the top of the lever is facing backwards. On the right hand shifter, the lever surface to be welded to the handle is the one with the notch in it. Weld each handle to each lever in a way that allows the levers to clear each other when installed in the bushing. 5) Once the handles are bent and welded to the levers, it is easiest to assemble the Twin Stick by placing the levers through the retainer cup, the O-ring, and into the bushing. Now slide the fulcrum pin into the bushing and through the levers 6) The levers should fit into the bushing with the bushing oriented such that the slots for the levers are farther to the left side of the shift tower. 7) Before installing the twin stick in the transfer case shift tower, make certain that the transfer case is in 4WD - High as this is the easiest position to get the lever tips to drop into the shift rails. You will probably have to jiggle the assembly to get it to drop in as the levers fit very snugly into the shift rails. 8) I used a pair of long offset nose needle nose pliers to twist the retainer cup in place - clears the handles and turns easily. 9) Reminder - You will not be able to select 2WD Low unless you remove the interlock ball from the transfer case. This is the ball that is between the shift rails. For those who are waiting for instructions, I am working on an assembly manual with illustrations for you which I hope to finish within the next few days. It will be in Adobe PDF format and I'll be emailing it to each person to whom we've sent a kit. For those who can't wait - I hope that this is helpful... Alan
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1962 Triumph Spitfire road racer 1965 Tecno Formula 4 1967 PBS GT1 Sports Racer 1975 Lola T-342 Formula Ford (Yeee-ha!) 1975 Merlyn Mk29 Formula Ford 1983 Renault Sports Racer 1988 Samurai JX - [I](5.12s, locked, diff guards, 6"SPOA/YJs, RS9000s, full armor, 4.16 tcase/bucket, twin stick, etc )[/I] |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Wheeler
Join Date: Jan 2006
Member # 64712
Location: Honor, MI
Posts: 273
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Do you have to pull the case apart to remove the dedent ball?
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87 suzuki samurai, 3" suspension lift, 32x11.5 mud rovers on white steelies Soon to have yota axles with 5.29 gears, propane, and some 36" iroks |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 90656
Location: The OC, California
Posts: 24
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RE:Interlock ball removal
Yes, you do, but it's really pretty simple and doesn't require much mechanical ability. The FSM has a very quick and easy section on how to disassemble/reassemble it and the interlock ball is obvious on the exploded view. Remember to keep the detent balls that hold the shift rails in place and remove only the interlock ball - it's the one that is between the shift rails in the center case.
I found that the easiest way to remove it once the center case is separated from the rear case is to remove the plug (Allen plug), spring, and Hi-N-Lo detent ball from the case, then pull the Hi-N-Lo shift fork and rail from the case as a unit. DO NOT remove the 2WD-4WD shift rail. The interlock ball will fall out of the case - be certain to retrieve it so that it doesn't end up floating around in the case after you reassemble it. After the interlock ball is out, reinsert the rail, place the detent ball and spring back in the appropriate center case hole, and then replace the Allen plug. Slap the case back together with some gasket sealer/gasket or silicone, reinstall, and refill with gear oil and you're ready to go... Alan
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1962 Triumph Spitfire road racer 1965 Tecno Formula 4 1967 PBS GT1 Sports Racer 1975 Lola T-342 Formula Ford (Yeee-ha!) 1975 Merlyn Mk29 Formula Ford 1983 Renault Sports Racer 1988 Samurai JX - [I](5.12s, locked, diff guards, 6"SPOA/YJs, RS9000s, full armor, 4.16 tcase/bucket, twin stick, etc )[/I] Last edited by SammiEngineer; 08-19-2007 at 09:18 PM. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 90656
Location: The OC, California
Posts: 24
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Instruction Manuals for the "Evil Twin" Kit
I've had the instruction manual finished for a while now and I've been working on converting it to an Adobe PDF file, but the conversion software keeps distorting the dimensions of the the diagrams and templates. In spite of my multiple attempts at generating a PDF file, I've had to resort to "snail mailing" hard copies to all of you who have placed advance orders. If you have received your "Evil Twin" kit without instructions, PM me your snail mail address and I'll get your instruction manual to you.
All kits ordered from now on will have instruction manuals included with the parts kit. Sorry for the inconvenience, Alan
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1962 Triumph Spitfire road racer 1965 Tecno Formula 4 1967 PBS GT1 Sports Racer 1975 Lola T-342 Formula Ford (Yeee-ha!) 1975 Merlyn Mk29 Formula Ford 1983 Renault Sports Racer 1988 Samurai JX - [I](5.12s, locked, diff guards, 6"SPOA/YJs, RS9000s, full armor, 4.16 tcase/bucket, twin stick, etc )[/I] |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Member # 90656
Location: The OC, California
Posts: 24
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Technical Update
Technical Update -
As of 9/10/07, all of the left shift levers (Hi-N-Lo) have been updated and are of the modified design (thanks to all of those who previously commented on this). All of the kits shipped since that date and going forward are of the modified design and fitment/action should be "bug free" for all Samurai transfer case applications. The transmission tunnel boots are in production and available per Vince's previous post. I am still working out molding issues with the shift tower boots... I'll keep you posted on the progress with this one. Thanks, Alan
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1962 Triumph Spitfire road racer 1965 Tecno Formula 4 1967 PBS GT1 Sports Racer 1975 Lola T-342 Formula Ford (Yeee-ha!) 1975 Merlyn Mk29 Formula Ford 1983 Renault Sports Racer 1988 Samurai JX - [I](5.12s, locked, diff guards, 6"SPOA/YJs, RS9000s, full armor, 4.16 tcase/bucket, twin stick, etc )[/I] |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Member # 252906
Posts: 2
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Warning on evil twin stick!!!!
Quote:
If you really have to have one... please buy mine... cheap... no warranties of any kind extended by me. And you have been warned. REMEMBER THEY WANT TO SELL THEIR ITEM... I HAVE NOTHING TO GAIN FROM YOU... take the advise |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Zeus of the Sluice
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Quote:
We are not a large company, just a couple of Samurai enthusiasts in the garage that tried to fill a need in the market. I don't recall ever speaking to you and don't consider myself a "slick" salesperson. If you had an issue, you never contacted me. Since I'm the only one taking calls and emails I guess that makes me the "warranty" department too. I'm sorry to hear of your issues. Is it possible that your deep water crossings caused your breather to leak? That may be a source of water as well if not properly modified. I really question why you would join a site just to slam someone, but if you have a problem and needed help I'm here. We have hundreds of these in use around the world and you're the first person to report this type of issue. We're not pushing the sale of these as this is more of a hobby than a business. We are not motivated to deceive anyone as this is not our main source of income. I wish you luck with your projects and encourage you to reach out and try to resolve issues with vendors in a more appropriate manner in the future. |
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