Just finished building my new truck. Finished Friday night and ran Saturday. Throttle stuck on the big end of the pit bouncing around at the shutdown area and couldn't get to the shutoff switch on the cage was getting close to the hay bales and the cameraman behind them I turned right went up on two tires. Got the engine shut down and when it came down it broke the ball joints and ripped up the front bumper. Took 3rd though.
yea it looks like a fullsize until you see it next to something :grinpimp:
one guy on each end can pick it up so i don't know on weight but its very compact.
So far i havnt broke a stock axle. I put new ujoints in and repack wheel bearings. I run 4.10 ratio in low range with a 4000rpm stall. They work great for our area. Chromoly shafts r in the future but i got a spare set of stock ones yet. Sorry for the poor quality its a text msg video.
I dont know why they call it 10 point. It was a jegs kit. Theres also 2 bars that go out to the bed. I would call it 6 myself. They say its nhra certified but how could that be. Anyway for the type of racing i do it will work fine for $250.
In reality, a mud truck is only going to take one roll before it's fucked (a flop in soft goo isn't a roll in racing for the trolls) and that's really a cage that's only designed to save your ass once IMHO. It'll work.
I personally don't like that there is no cross bars for bracing up on the roof area, but that's just me.
Dana 60 swap worked good for me untill the big block and 44's. Now its Longfield super joints, 10 Factory 35 spline stubs, drive flanges and stock inners. In our 2nd season and thats all good, other stuff not so much. :shaking:
It will be done before the next race. It does get old.
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Pirate 4x4
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