mud proofin manual trans

[mudbug660]

I know there's some people that have mud proofed their clutch and such.
Is it a good idea to without airflow to cool it off? What's ya'lls take on the matter?

[spidr]

Come on you know it all bastards

Let's get the usefull tech going. Prepping a clutch for the Tank trap.
Spill the beans boys.

[zk16vl]

seal it up use a ceterforce pressure plate and and a semi-metalic disc, pick a gear and go, don't shift when your in the stuff or you risk getting crap between the disc, pressure plate, and flywheel. you can hook a fitting to the top of the bell houseing to blow pressure in (air, exhaust, co2) and a fitting hooked to a hose on the bottom of the bell houseing (run the hose up high). as the water comes in the pressure forces it out the hose on the bottom.

[spidr]

That's knid of what I figured. You using the factory splash plate or something else? How much pressure is right? Too little it does nothing, too much it blows seals?

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

Originally Posted by spidr

That's knid of what I figured. You using the factory splash plate or something else? How much pressure is right? Too little it does nothing, too much it blows seals?

Waiting for answer to this ^^^^^^

[zk16vl]

yes, you have to have a plate across the bottom. and silicone the top and sides as you put it up behind the flywheel over the oilpan lip. its going to leak, kind of like an old rusty bucket with pin holes. the biggest problem is around the clutch boot on manual linkage. silicone the snot out of it. with the hose on the bottom of the bell houseing don't go any bigger than 1/2".

now that I have your attention there is another option, you still have to hook a line off the top of the bell houseing. that is the vent(3/4" seems to work best) run it up as high as you can. then hook a 12v water pump up to the bottom of the bell houseing and suck that bitch dry off a flick of the switch. I like this method best because it's a lot simpler to do.

[mj]

centerforce clutches are junk
last thing I would do is seal stuff in, but that is just my opinion

[mudskipper4x4]

Originally Posted by mj

centerforce clutches are junk

Why's that? Not being a dick, just wanna know why you think they are junk. I was looking at swapping my stock one out for a cf clutch.

[spidr]

I'm not a fan of Centerforce either. I've got a cheapy in there now, likely a LUK when it comes apart. Having said that, I want to keep water and grit away from that expensive clutch, so I like the idea of sealing it.

[mj]

Originally Posted by mudskipper4x4

Why's that? Not being a dick, just wanna know why you think they are junk. I was looking at swapping my stock one out for a cf clutch.

how much are you paying for the CF clutch?
chances are you can get a real nice McLeod or Ram for that money rather then paying for a gimic
I havent looked at a CF for a long time but when they came out they were just a cheap rebuilt clutch with some wieght wedged in the diagram springs
same price or more then the 2700# McLeod, no marcel, "sprung" hub, I used in my 5.0 to remove the teeth off of third gear
get the Clutch Handbook and read what makes a clutch work for different applications and then look at what is available
a quality Luk ProGold set will most likely be more then enough for most, and if you drive through it, then you would start looking at heavier pressure plates or the big $$ twin discs (not dual friction) from the real aftermarket McLeod or Ram

[mj]

Originally Posted by spidr

I'm not a fan of Centerforce either. I've got a cheapy in there now, likely a LUK when it comes apart. Having said that, I want to keep water and grit away from that expensive clutch, so I like the idea of sealing it.

the problem with most attempts at sealed things is that it traps more 'in' then when they are left open
then you have the heat and clutch debris all trapped in a box

[bayouhazard]

Most of my clutch problems were with grass, roots and particles getting trapped in the "fingers" of the pressure plate. water and mud don't seem to mess it up too bad.
I don't like the high performance clutches as they are too hard to modulate. Sometimes you want to slip the clutch...
Run the shield and seal it all up, you'll still get crap in it.

[Stranger ranger]

might as well stop while your ahead. It will always find a way in somehow. And even if your sealed up so tight it cant get in, the clutch will burn up. either way, fawked.

[94stepsideford]

Originally Posted by Stranger ranger

might as well stop while your ahead. It will always find a way in somehow. And even if your sealed up so tight it cant get in, the clutch will burn up. either way, fawked.

[/thread]

[mj]

Originally Posted by bayouhazard

I don't like the high performance clutches as they are too hard to modulate. Sometimes you want to slip the clutch...

that is where reading the clutch handbook will tell you what to order.
you want to modulate it then you need a sprung hub with Marcel style disc, like stock clutches, but you can still up the pressure plate for more holding power

[bayouhazard]

If your gearing is low enough the clutch shouldn't slip...

[the1208]

For those of you who are loosing your clutch because of junk getting behind the fingers switch to a three finger [borg and beck] type pressure plate.This is a BIG proplem in jersey because are mud has a lot of sand in it. Unfortunitly you cant get them for all trucks. Also if you have a very good (read not lazy) parts guy who is willing to do some searching International trucks and scouts used a greaseable throw out bearing that is the same size as alot of other bearings.I use to have the exact year and model but lost it. Then use a hole saw to cut a hole in the bottem of the bell to reach it . Too plug the hole goto the help section at an auto parts store and buy one of those expandable rubber plugs. Get plug before you drill hole so its drilled to the right size. I have used the above listed set up for years and have had trouble free clutches ever since but I have never been able to keep water out of the trans. One of the ideas I have been playing with is to weld a round plate on the shifter about 4 to 6 inches up the shifter and then below the shifter on the trans mount another round plate and then install a soft rubber hose clamping it at each end to the round plates, a silcone after cooler hose the one with the bubble in it looks like it would really do the trick. Hope this helped some one out.

[mj]

I am worried about the np435 in water as well, there is no seal on the shifter
was thinking inner tube might work

[zk16vl]

Originally Posted by mj

I am worried about the np435 in water as well, there is no seal on the shifter
was thinking inner tube might work

a bicycle inner tube works great for it. use a 20" bmx tube (the rubber is thicker) cut the tube about 10" long, hose clamp it to the shifter base, fill the tube with grease (not to full) then hose clamp the other end of the tube about 1 1/2" above the shifter locking ring on the shifter (silicone and fold it tight around the shift lever). works great

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

Originally Posted by zk16vl

a bicycle inner tube works great for it. use a 20" bmx tube (the rubber is thicker) cut the tube about 10" long, hose clamp it to the shifter base, fill the tube with grease (not to full) then hose clamp the other end of the tube about 1 1/2" above the shifter locking ring on the shifter (silicone and fold it tight around the shift lever). works great

Good info. The NP435 in my big ugly wag thanks you.

[ufospy]

Spray foam!!!!!!

[mj]

Originally Posted by ufospy

Spray foam!!!!!!

is there anything you cannot do with spray foam?

[rustywagoneersdotcom]

Originally Posted by mj

is there anything you cannot do with spray foam?

Put it back in the can.....