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Old 01-20-2009, 03:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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15 inch rims on one tons?

I got 84 dana 60 front w a matchin sterling 10.25 out back this isnt street legel so im woundering how u guys are getting 15 inch rims on there. I know the dana 60s caliper needs to be grinded down how are you guys getting 15 inch rims to fit?

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Old 01-20-2009, 03:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Disks on the rear, 4 hours of grinding on the front and wheel spacers up front
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Old 01-20-2009, 04:11 PM   #3 (permalink)
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2 inch backspacing rims all the way around.
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Old 01-20-2009, 04:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Not worth it in my oppinon but iv done it three times, gets to be a pain in the ass, never buy 15s again for the mudder, the less back spacing you have the easier it is to get them to fit, got about three hours into my 60,
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Old 01-21-2009, 10:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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so i should fawk that idea and run 16.5 hummer H1 rims is that the story? well thats the way i was leaning its just theres a ton of 15 inch tires for sale right now didnt know if it would be worth it.

thanks for the answers

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Old 01-21-2009, 10:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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16.5's for mud? Eff that.
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Old 01-21-2009, 11:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ok no 15 no 16.5 than what
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Old 01-21-2009, 12:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Grind away & make the 15's work - or go to 16's if the right tire is available.
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Old 01-21-2009, 02:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Dually Hubs? But that may be unessecary $$$. Grinding disk are cheap.
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I run 15" wheels on a balljoint Dana 60 and 14 bolt. I ordered my wheels with 2 inch backspacing. Everything clears the brakes well, but the truck is WIDE! I would recommend going with 2.5" or 3" backspacing, and grinding the front calipers as necessary.

Just my two cents!
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Old 01-21-2009, 06:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i had 15x14 eatons on my d60 and sterling 10.25. rears fit no problem. had to grind the shit outta the front calipers. i had 4" BS on the wheels, but i had to lose the squealers and get into the pad ears. truck barely fit into parking spaces. about a week later i switched out to 42" tsls on 16.5"s i got off craigslist on the cheap. fit waaay easier and rode alot better for some reason too.

yeah, that was my first post
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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16.5's for mud? Eff that.
Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:01 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?
They don't have the proper bead to stay on a non-beadlocked rim, and any beadlocked 16.5" rims you'll find are stupid heavy.
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?
Because people are too damn lazy to weld a saftey bead around them.
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Old 01-26-2009, 02:32 PM   #15 (permalink)
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They don't have the proper bead to stay on a non-beadlocked rim, and any beadlocked 16.5" rims you'll find are stupid heavy.
I must not be mudding as hard as you guys. I've got 16.5's with 35x12.50's and I haven't had a problem yet. That's not to say I won't though. I'm just running a bone stock '79 3/4ton chevy with a 350 and about 8" of lift. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind when I start making some power upgrades.
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:51 AM   #16 (permalink)
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ordered rims the other day for my chevy 60 front....we grinded down the dually hubs and made them single front wheel hubs...got a GREAT price on eaton 15x10 8 lug with 2.5" bs from National Tire and Wheel....he is on here as a vendor and gives a pirate discount if you mention you got his number from this site
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I must not be mudding as hard as you guys. I've got 16.5's with 35x12.50's and I haven't had a problem yet. That's not to say I won't though. I'm just running a bone stock '79 3/4ton chevy with a 350 and about 8" of lift. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind when I start making some power upgrades.
You probably won't have issues at street pressures or even mild airing down unless you have a lot of motor. Most guys I know run Boggers at less than 8lbs with pretty healthy big-blocks and that doesn't work on 16.5's.
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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remove front brakes altogether and run rear discs only...
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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remove front brakes altogether and run rear discs only...
Why on Earth would you do that???? First off, the front brakes provide the bulk of your stopping power. Second, the removal of the front brakes is going to not only bump you out of many of the lower classes, it'll make your truck illegal for ALL classes at any race utilizing MRA rules.
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Old 02-20-2009, 07:59 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I kinda figured that would get a wtf from a few people... haha, it does a few things,

1 it moves weight off of the front of the truck
2 allows 15 inch wheels to fit 1ton axles
3 and the trucks that its done on are race only and are locked in 4wd all the time so all 4 wheels stop when you step on the pedal

I know it wouldnt be the hot setup for anything that you would drive around but around here there are LOTS of trucks that have been running this setup for many years with no problems, and all of these trucks are straight line hill and hole race vehicles...
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:48 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I have a regular old king pin, SRW, stock 1-ton brakes, Chevy D60 in my blazer running 15x8 wheels with 2.75" backspacing. I spent about a minute per side cleaning up the calipers from some very light rubbing on the rough parts of the casting. Rear axle is a 14FF converted to disc using 3/4 ton 10-bolt rotors and calipers with no interference issues.

Guy in our club has a '78 F-250 w/ factory D60 front axle and stock brakes running the same wheels (15x8, 2.75" BS) with no issues. Rear axle is a D70 with disc brakes, no issues.

The 15x8 size with 2.75" BS works great in this application as it allows 15" rims on the 1-tons with minimal to no work, and it doesn't make the truck any wider than a standard BS 15x10 rim. We both run 15.5" wide TSL's, mine are 39.5's and his are 42's. The skinny rim protects the rim edge better, and is a poor man's beadlock. Both are heavy fullsize rigs and the Ford has been running single digit air pressure for several years and never loss a bead even when the 500+ ft-lb. big block is singing. I haven't had mine as long but no issues so far running 10 psi or lower, and on my previous setup (38x13 TSL on 10" wide rims) I knocked the beads off the front at 15 psi every other ride.
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:14 AM   #22 (permalink)
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run 17s
15s are so 1980
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:23 AM   #23 (permalink)
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What part of Missouri are you in TEX?
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Old 02-20-2009, 10:33 AM   #24 (permalink)
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3 and the trucks that its done on are race only and are locked in 4wd all the time so all 4 wheels stop when you step on the pedal
So you're counting on your axles (assuming you have a welded diff) to stop the truck. What happens when a front axle breaks? You roll through the DQ line, that's what (saw it happen with a buddy of mine with no front brakes).

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I know it wouldnt be the hot setup for anything that you would drive around but around here there are LOTS of trucks that have been running this setup for many years with no problems, and all of these trucks are straight line hill and hole race vehicles...
Hill N Hole trucks are going to be required to run 4-wheel brakes in 2010.


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Old 02-20-2009, 10:36 AM   #25 (permalink)
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run 17s
15s are so 1980
You checked into mud tire (REAL mud tire) availability for 17's? Besides, nobody makes a really lightweight 17" rim. Heavy wheels are so 1970
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