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Old 01-27-2009, 03:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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tell me about my 4 link numbers....

yep... it's a big gay mud truck. add your thoughs, or just flame me. either way is fine.

if you need full specs on the truck, let me know and i'll post them...

i've been debating adding more triangulation to the lowers by bringing them in at the frame end. however, this will require more fab work then just leaving them at the frame width.

anyway... enough talk. here's a screen shot. give me some advice...








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Old 01-27-2009, 06:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Jeez..... what is this beast - an old monster truck ? ( the new ones run pretty much horizontal links for less antisquat )
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:16 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum_Willys View Post
Jeez..... what is this beast - an old monster truck ? ( the new ones run pretty much horizontal links for less antisquat )
eh.... i can drop the antisquat to 1 if i raise the lower link frame end 3.5"

my last truck had around 50% antisquat and worked great. however, if i can improve on things, i would like to.
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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your roll axis angle is way to high.......13* is not desirable on any vehicle mud truck or not. The roll axis angle describes how the axle is going to steer itself. Say the body rolls to the passenger side...the passenger links push the axle forward, while the driver links get steeper and pull the axle back. This adds in steering through the axle itself, with disregard to the knuckles. This is oversteer.

43% is fine,

get the roll axis angle as low as possible.....
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Old 01-27-2009, 07:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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your IC is underground
I do not know how to read the numbers with the IC underground behind the vehicle
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Old 01-27-2009, 09:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOGGER1966 View Post
your roll axis angle is way to high.......13* is not desirable on any vehicle mud truck or not. The roll axis angle describes how the axle is going to steer itself. Say the body rolls to the passenger side...the passenger links push the axle forward, while the driver links get steeper and pull the axle back. This adds in steering through the axle itself, with disregard to the knuckles. This is oversteer.

43% is fine,

get the roll axis angle as low as possible.....
ok... i'll play with it tomorrow and see what i can figure out. thanks.


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your IC is underground
I do not know how to read the numbers with the IC underground behind the vehicle
where do i want the IC?

suggestions on how to get it there?
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Old 01-28-2009, 05:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ok i got the roll axis down. do i need to get lower?

the instant center is above ground now too...

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Old 01-28-2009, 12:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ok i got the roll axis down. do i need to get lower?

the instant center is above ground now too...

get the roll axis angle as close to zero as you can......im running 5* on mine and thats b/c i had move my axle mounts further in......

since you havn't built anything yet i would get it perfect before you build it.....
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BOGGER1966 View Post
get the roll axis angle as close to zero as you can......im running 5* on mine and thats b/c i had move my axle mounts further in......
whenever i get the roll axis lower, the antisquat drops.... at what point should i be concerned with the antisquat being too low?

also... getting the roll axis lower puts my instant center back into the negative numbers. dropping the lower link at the frame gives me a 0 on roll axis. however, antisquat is -28 and instant center is -170.

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since you havn't built anything yet i would get it perfect before you build it.....
that's the plan... i won't really get a chance to mess with it untill friday though. i guess i really need to read more about what each things does.

i appreciate the advice.
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Old 01-28-2009, 02:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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just play with it.....i would try to get the a/s higher then it is now......i dont exactly what to change to get what your looking for....
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Old 01-28-2009, 04:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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ok, i think these are better... too much AS?

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Old 01-28-2009, 06:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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axle side lower mount needs to come up to about axle center line
then bring the uppers framer mount down
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Old 01-28-2009, 07:06 PM   #13 (permalink)
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lower the upper frame mount untill when? bascially, what number am i trying to change by doing that?
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Old 02-15-2009, 06:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ideally you want the angle of your lowers to be 5-10. Distance between the upper and lower axle side link mounts should be 25% of your tire diameter. Distance between upper and lower link mounts on the frame should be 50% of that number.
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:21 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by toytechproject View Post
Ideally you want the angle of your lowers to be 5-10. Distance between the upper and lower axle side link mounts should be 25% of your tire diameter. Distance between upper and lower link mounts on the frame should be 50% of that number.

Where do you guys come up with these generalizations? Really, they just get more and more off the wall, starting with 70% uppers off the lowers.

I have not seen a single 'rule of thumb' that made every style design easier to create, or function better. There are so many variables throughout each build that it is plain ridiculous to have any base template, in my mind. Dont mean to single you out toy, but you really see a lot of this going around, and it only spreads more. I just dont agree with it i guess.

Did I miss it, or does it not say anywhere if this is a front or rear axle? Can you give us a picture of the truck? Some visual things and numbers not plugged into the calc (track width) will play into how you interpret the numbers in the calculator....what numbers you prioritize over others.
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Old 02-17-2009, 07:38 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Did I miss it, or does it not say anywhere if this is a front or rear axle? Can you give us a picture of the truck? Some visual things and numbers not plugged into the calc (track width) will play into how you interpret the numbers in the calculator....what numbers you prioritize over others.

i planned on running this same setup front and rear. here is a pic from when i started this topic. 102" track width.




however... it's already built.... so here's the final numbers i went with.






and some pics of it...




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Old 02-17-2009, 08:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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looks good to me
what made you pick 62" for COG?
are those pics at ride hieght?
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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looks good to me
what made you pick 62" for COG?
are those pics at ride hieght?

it was a guess.... i figured if most rigs use the top bellhousing bolt and mine has way more unsprung weight... i figured it needed to be lower.

yes, those are at ride height.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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you could build in a foot of adjustment in that thing
lowers frame end is pretty much where it can be but you could make the axle end adjustable with 8 or so different hieghts up from where it is now
the uppers axle end are pretty much where they have to be but the frame end you could have mounting spots all the way down the vertical of that drop bracket
being crazy tall like that makes it easy to build in options
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:04 AM   #20 (permalink)
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that's a good idea.... i probably should have made the tabs with adjustments in mind. lol.
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Where can I get a copy of this spread sheet?
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Old 02-21-2009, 10:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Where can I get a copy of this spread sheet?
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/fi...rLinkV3.1d.zip

Triaged is his screenname, search
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Old 02-21-2009, 11:45 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info. This is excellent
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