Radius arm tech for our boggers & dragger

[mustange70]

so the time is coming to start on the rebuilding of the race truck, starting with a new chassis (for a better frame mainly), with the main goals being a rollcage and getting rid of the leaf springs.

What i'm looking to build is a radius arm setup front and rear (like what the superduties run in terms of mounting points), and build them with high clearence as a main goal. But because this is a comp mud bog/drag truck i'd like to get some weight transfer, and get the ass end to squat, yeah i could go 4 link, but i want the truck to be as simple as possible, and the 4link add a fair bit of complexity to the rig, that and cost is the other big thing (hiems on all ends, 2.5x.5 tubing for links, cause i am going to beat it like it owes me money and the pansy ass shit i see a lot of guys running just will not cut the mustard).


So does any of the drag racers have any help here, since this just a modified ladder bar setup, i'm thinking it shouldn't be to bad, just something i haven't played with before.


The construction of the links will be done with some 2nps x.250 a106 smls pipe, which will be sleaved down the middle with some 2x1.5 x 3/16 rect. tubing down the middle to stiffen the hell out of it, without hopefully being no heavier than some 2.5x.5 link material, but a heck of a lot stronger. (i'm planning on hitting some tough truck style races, so i'm comprimising in weight in a few areas so it doesn't give me issues)

[TEX]

Ford style suspension works okay up front, but make sure you have enough shock damping to keep it from wheel-hopping in deep stuff.

Out back, truck arms (aka 2wd Chevy suspension from the mid 60's) is your best bet for the kind of suspension you desire.

[Midget28]

Why not just build your own beef Ladder bar setup....

[mustange70]

looking to do a few things with the truck i doubt i could do with a true ladder bar setup.

Thanks tex for the info, anyone have any geometry tips?

[mj]

simple math
each ladder bar/radius arm will need 3 bushings or rod ends, thats 6
the panhard needs 2 bushings or rod ends, thats 8

a triangulated 4 link needs 8 rod ends or bushings
a 3 link panhard needs 8 rod ends or bushings
a wishbone 3 link needs 7 rod ends or bushings

so what are you saving by choosing a ladder bar/radius arm ??
oh, and a radius arm is a "true ladder bar setup"

[mustange70]

i already have a bushing source for next to nothing, so not to concerned there, a dual triangulated 4 link plows to much in the deep mud (which will be what the truck sees the most), and its easier to build high clearence in the radius arm/ladder bars or whatever you want to call it, plus i won't have to worry about a anti-sway bar, less mounting points to worry about, just simpler overall. I'm not going for max flex, that andsome place i race at have rules against 4 links vs. factory style suspension up front (and the the truck is a 82 f-150 )