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Old 12-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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S 10 Mud truck

Im building an S10 to Mud bog with and cant decide if I want to use the S10 frame or a blazer frame. Moost of the guys around here use Blazer (K5) frames but the front tire location is too far forward in the wheelwell. I would prefer to use the S10 frame but am worried that it might not be strong enough. Anyone used an S10 frame? Opinions?
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You need to verify the rules where you plan on racing as the frame could dictate what class you run in. The s10 frame is plenty strong especially if braced properly. There s10 frame because it was ifs or 2wd whatever you got creates some problems. You have to cut out and make all new mounts for your suspension. Using the blazer frame is probably the easiest and less expensive way to go. If you can get away it I prefer a custom tube chassis.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I cant make my own per the rules.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Its a 2wd standard cab shortbed.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Tim Huellinghoff had one of the best Super Stockers in Missouri that was an S15 2wd originally. He kept the S-10 frame. You don't save a ton of weight, but you do save some. Plus, it keeps the wheelbase correct and you don't have that huge gap under the bed. Tim's truck had an F150 Coil & Radius Arm setup up front BTW & a 488" BBC. He had to notch the frame a hair to make room for the underswept headers.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would actually put $ on the newer S10 frames being stronger than the old open Cchanel frame of the blazer.


the only reason they swap bodys over to the other frames is the ease of the leafs up front.

ot they allready had a truck and then swaped over to a s10 body.
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Agree

if u cant use a full tube chassis then stick with the S10 frame n save weight, we have a ranger on rockwells with 49's under it and that frame holds up.
and there is very little mods to that frame, so IMO use ur frame n build..
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I cant make my own per the rules.
Would have been useful info in your OP.
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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use the s-10 frame, much lighter.but you will have issues with the metal. that hydroformed stuff has thin spots. nothing to worrie about ,but you'll find a few when you weld. the rear frame rails are low for a proper 4-link.. can't get into it here but if you like I'll PM you my number and wecan chat about it. I also have some drag style 4-link designs that work real well for muddrags.

heres the last ride
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...066.1510812775
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the S10 frame can bend right behind the cab, where it turns up.

it happened to mine and i've seen it happen to a couple of others. these are all 2.5 ton trucks though.
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Old 12-19-2010, 01:07 PM   #12 (permalink)
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what axles come stock under the s10?
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Old 12-19-2010, 04:04 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
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what axles come stock under the s10?
junk...

10 bolt rear, ifs front...
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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this competition mud bogg truck (buddy of mines) is on a shortened K5 blazer frame with 3/4 ton axles...

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Old 12-19-2010, 05:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by georgiaboy2500HD View Post
this competition mud bogg truck (buddy of mines) is on a shortened K5 blazer frame with 3/4 ton axles...

what motor and tranny is he running? and tire size?
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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you will be just fine with the stock frame under there.. no pics, but 2 summers ago we built a 2wd s10 truck with a d44 and 14b with a 355 in it and a rear mount rad.... that truck was fun because it could still be driven on the road... unlike everything else we have built...

Last edited by burnsy86; 12-21-2010 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 04:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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nothing wrong with thin, well designed, box chassis. If you are linking it, make sure to weld fish plates to the frame before you weld your link mounts straight to it. also make the ends of the fish plate < > not square and avoid sharp corners.
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Old 01-26-2011, 11:02 PM   #18 (permalink)
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heres the only pic of mine i could find. s10 frame. mines bent. but the guy that put the axles under it before i got it didnt brace the frame right. Building a box tube/ tube frame this year

Last edited by norris; 01-26-2011 at 11:03 PM.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:12 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Was there a roll cage in these bent frames? I build an 1.5" .095 - .120, 12 point cage in all my s-10's. I've never bent one.

The new owner of the old orange one has put it through a beating that i didn't think it would take. As far as I know he bent the toyota front housing, but not the frame.

All my S-10's other than a new one I'm heloing a buddy build have been 4-linked though.... that may be the difference. This new one have a 9" and 44 leaf sprung, so we will see what it does.
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Old 01-27-2011, 06:57 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The new owner of the old orange one has put it through a beating that i didn't think it would take. As far as I know he bent the toyota front housing, but not the frame.
The Toy front housings are prone to do that if you don't truss 'em. Agreed on the cage comments. If you have a competition level cage, you're a lot less likely to tweak the frame.
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiaboy2500HD View Post
this competition mud bogg truck (buddy of mines) is on a shortened K5 blazer frame with 3/4 ton axles...

any specs on how he choped the frame?
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