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welding control arms?

9K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  2big bronco 
#1 ·
Im about ready to do the final welding on my control arms and im trying to figure out the best way to do it. The bungs are already in place and were plug welded for mockup but what is the best way to completely weld them up?

Should I leave the joint threaded in the bung and cover it from spatter? Or is there a chance of it arcing across the threads and welding it to the bung? I had tacked a thick washer to the side of the tube for a ground, is this sufficient for full welding? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
#2 ·
don't leave the joint threaded in, you risk having it seize in the bung, ask me how I know:shaking:

spray the inside of the threaded bung with antispatter to protect the threads.

tacked washer might be fine... you can also wrap a piece of grounding strap around the tube and clamp your neg to that if the clamp isn't big enough.
 
#5 ·
everything I read said to weld with the joint in, and I thought that was a good idea.

until 2 of the heims for my steering seized. I tried pulling them out as soon as I was done welding, but they were totally fucked.

talked to a guy who runs a fab shop and he told me to weld them without the joint, run some antispatter, let them cool somewhat and then try to run the joint in. if it sticks, don't force it, remove it and chase the threads with a tap.
 
#6 ·
Ive welded my tie rod and drag links with them tre threaded inside. Just put some anti seize on the joints thread and weld away.

Make sure you grind off the edges of the tube. Then make 2 welds, a small inner bead then weld the rest of the "V". Make sure you move the joints in/out just to be sure they dont seize inside the bungs.

I didnt have a problem doing it this way.
 
#8 · (Edited)
DO NOT WELD THE BUNGS WITH THE ENDS THREADED IN! I CAN ATTEST TO A NOW SIEZED ROD END. place an undersized bolt in there that will slip in/out, or weld it with the opening facing down, or use the anti-spatter spray in there if your worried about it. anything that will cover the opening will work. let it fully cool before re-inserting the rod end, and i now clean mine out with a tap or small wire brush before re-inserting the end with a little anti-sieze on it.
 
#9 ·
When I worked for a hydraulic ram outfit as a welder (10 years ago), we used an anti-spatter tape and silicon plugs to keep threads clean for welding. I did a quick google search but didn't come up with any products that looked the same as what I remember. Technology may have changed since then. I bet if you went to a welding shop they could get you what you need.

If you can gt the anti-spatter tape, I would just cover the opening with it. It does not stick or get gooey like regular tape would. I think it's made with some sort of fiberglass-like material. If you can find it, it works great.
 
#13 ·
How about don't try to do it all in one pass?

I've yet to have a problem doing 3-4 1" long beads.

Even with 7/8" bungs in 1" ID tubing.

And that's without leaving any rod ends in them, spraying anti-spatter (not sure what the hell that's gonna help with), or slathering anti seize in them.
 
#19 ·
figured I'd revive a good thread. Wishing i read this before.

I had a control arm joint seize inside the weld-on bung. I left it out while welding. and then put it back in after 5-10 minutes of sitting (time to weld the other control arms). i hand threaded it in, but it got tighter and then i tried to back it out, and it seize. and holy hell was it hard to get that thing out. (4 total joints welded in, 1 seized, 3 perfect)

So today, i welded a different control arm. I left the joint in it (covered it to protect from splatter) and then i pulled it out when i was done. I switch off between both sides. Well, it came out perfectly, going back in it started making a horrible high pitch squealing sound, but it wasnt getting tighter, so i kept going. Then, it stopped. i tried to back it out, same thing happened.

I have yet to get it out yet...thing is wanting A LOT of force to budge. If i cant get it out, im just going to cut the joint off and try and drill out the left over threading in the bung. (going to be a bitch to drill that chromoly steel). I checked my threads over and over before i threaded it back in, so i wouldnt have the same result as before.. Well, now after reading this, i guess the threading can warp from all the heat.

Purchased an expensive ass tap (1.25x12) and hopefully it's here soon. so i can see if that bung/control arm is salvageable.

I have anti spatter spray, just didn't think to use it. any suggestions to protect against warping threads? i read ^^^^up there somewhere, a guy does an inch or two at a time? i did full circumference, then switch to other side. then back, then switch. (3 passes each).
 
#22 · (Edited)
metal can be shrunk when it gets heated to that point. the joint being left in acts as a heat sink, that is why they seize in there. leave them out, let the threaded end cool, do not cool with water or compressed air. it should return to normal after cooling.

leave the joint out, weld it in 1" passes alternating sides, let cool in between.
beveling the edge of the tubing is a good way to get a full-pen weld.

you do want to weld it at the proper heat range to assure full penetration of the weld. it is utter B.S. that someone said 'your welding it too hot'. your welding f-ing metal, you may have welded too much at once, but i doubt you could weld too hot if using .030 mig and the proper wire speed for your weld speed and your level of skill. if you weld at too low of a temp all that happens is you don't get much penetration into the base metal and the weld is mostly just on top of the joined pieces. i have seen 'good looking' cold welds that separated neatly after welding with very little force. really not good on a steering component.
 
#23 · (Edited)
meh.

the diameter/thickness of steering links is so small that even if you just run 1" of weld you are putting enough heat to distort them.

all metal distorts when you weld it, why do you think people use fixture tables and massive jigs when welding important things.

if you want welds that have full penetration and hold up, weld it as hot as necessary for that, don't worry about the threads.

use a little antispatter to protect them and then run a tap in before threading a joint in. that's really the only way to know 100% of the time that it will not seize.

any other method is guess work.
 
#24 ·
I've always coated my threads gerously with grease, welded them in place and never touched them until everything was cool. Never had a problem or given 2nd thought to it. If your scared I'd suggest welding them out and just running a tap through it when everything cools.
 
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