I have been reading about that the front axle nut size is for a dodge ram 1500 (i still don't know it actually) but I have found a lot of info about retorqing it correctly or big problems with the pinion bearing resulting. Should I just torque it down to factory specs and not worry about the rotation torque? or maybe a little looser to make sure it's not too tight?
The pinion has a crush sleeve that is only good once, twice if you are very careful putting the pinion nut back on.
The way I did it on my DD when my pinion seal blew out, was I took a chisel and marked the pinion nut, pinion and the yoke. When I went to re assemble it, I just lined everything up where it originally was and have not had a problem since. Do not go under the marks and do not go over the marks.
Probably not. The whole reason for replacing the yoke was because when I bought the truck the yoke had two screws broken off. I put the new one on and like a dumb ass broke off a screw in that one. Too the machine shop tomorrow to get them removed :homer:
I know it has a high torque to crush the crush washer... wouldn't tighting it till it was snug with no play kind of work?
What I WOULD DO? I would tighten the nut down and seat it. Then give it a small, VERY SMALL twist to get the play out of it. You dont want to crush the crush sleeve anymore than what it already it.
But Im sure that is the wrong way to do it. I would wait for someone to confirm this or has a better answer.
If its a fulltime front drive axle, no. If it has locking hubs, yes
I would just go very slow and use your "spider senses" to try and feel the nut torquing on the crush sleeve. Don't go too far, but dont leave it with slop.
Every Dana axle I've messed with had no crush sleeve. It has a solid spacer with shims. Rotational torque is what you should be concerned with. As long as no shims stuck to the yoke during all the swapping around it should be good.
Whats the specs on the truck? Do you know for sure you have a D44F?
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