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Can someone explain anti-sway bars for rock crawling?

17K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  Jupiterfx1 
#1 ·
I understand anti-sway bars for the street/road, but for offroad the street items are often removed to prevent them limiting articulation and axle travel. I can understand disconnectable bars for on and offroad. I can understand jointed, billet link, chromoly bars for desert racers. But how do they work in crawling? How do they help?
 
#3 ·
They work in the same way they are still going to limit flex because their job is to keep the truck level from side to side, depends on how the rest of your suspension is setup and how you use your truck if you spend the money on adding them in.

Course, if budget is of no concern, run them.
 
#4 ·
I've asked the same question before, and this is one of the replies I got (from Buckon37s)

I am assuming you understand the principle behind the actual bars. In super-ease, it acts as a progressive spring that pulls on the drooping side of the axle and pushes on the compressed side. This is not a linear spring rate so the farther the travel, the more resistance it will give. A stock bar works the same way, only it is severly limited in stroke. So what happens is it works as intended for a few inches, and then maxes out and stops the wheel travel. You don't want that.

So why not stiff springs? Any spring that is not perfect (or as perfect as you can get) for the terrain is a big problem. Stiffer springs will make go-fast suck. And even worse, will bounce you off rocks like pogo sticks. I have seen literally hundreds of rigs that are too stiff trying to bump rocks and it looks like two turtles humping. The vast majority of wheelers run springs that are already too stiff.

So a swaybar allows the correct spring rates to be used and will not stop or interfere with rapid compression (go fast) but will add stability on corners and off camber.

But, contrary to popular belief, it does not help in the rocks. It can actually force a roll if done just wrong. What it does aid with tremendously is off camber situations. It has saved me many times when I have literally gone past a roll and been "pulled" back by the bar. And, if you have it in the rear, you can "drive to it". Use it to keep you solid. Not always possible, but usually is.

After running one, I would never wheel again without one.

And speicifically on a rover, it will force the front radius arm to move without giving up any travel in the rear. I have 16in shocks mounted in a way that gives me 17 in of straight travel and who knows how much articulation. I can max mine out with ease.

The one that is on Lanes rig is this one: http://www.m-a-engineering.net/Sway-Bar-Kit-SXY.htm That was designed by a friend of mine. I then changed it to make it right for my rig and then he did the final adjustments. The kit was designed specifically for slightly heavier, or top heavier rigs. It allows for more adjustment than any other kit, and has 43 teeth to make it able to absorb longer travel applications. Lane will tell you that it can be adjusted from sloppy to stiff.

If you are interested in one, check these out, he will give you a rover discount. He understands that rover owners are broke from maintenance costs. I hope that answered your questions.
Hope that helps..
 
#5 ·
They are a necessary evil to reduce pucker factor. Slinky suspension and nose bleed hights promote lots of body roll and it needs to be managed for safety just the same as a street rig. The aftermarket ones have a softer spring rate that can allow articulation but it still handicaps it.
 
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