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Old 06-04-2012, 10:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Solid Axle Camber Adjustment?

Can you adjust the camber on a solid axle?

If so, how? The only way I can think that you might be able to would be with a torch to heat the tubes and set it that way. . .seems like camber for a solid axle is something that once it's set that's what you've got.

Thanks!
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you are talking about a front axle, there are bushings that will offset the upper ball joint as well as spindle shims that can change it a bit. If you have a bent axle housing, probably the best thing to do is just replace it.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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eccentric bushings on kingpins, eccentric inserts for ball joints
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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OK. . .thanks.

Just wondering for future reference. . .
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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so who has these balljoint eccentrics
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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so who has these balljoint eccentrics
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...r_bushing.html
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Well Now, those are cool
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:12 AM   #8 (permalink)
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FYI, for rear axles, there are 4 bolt shims that will bolt between the backing plate and flange for minor adjustments too.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How is angling the brakes going to help with alignment?
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Because thats what your wheels bolt to. EDIT: ohhhhh, you mean disk brake caliper brackets don't you? Not clear in your post. I mean drums, or rotors but only with a bolt-on spindles, you are actually meant to bolt this shim between the SPINDLE and the tube....

Depending on the orientation of the square, you can change camber (+or-) or toe.

Not for FF axles obviously.............

Edit: I thought these were pretty cool too!
http://www.lightracing.com/products/...f-road-fastrax
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Last edited by Cooter!; 06-05-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Camber angle on front axles can be adjusted with shims that go between the spindle and the knuckle.

The eccentric balljoint sleeves can do both camber and caster depending on which way you rotate them.... But on the Dana 44 ones you may have to accept a less than ideal preload on the balljoint to get them lined up where you need them.
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Old 06-05-2012, 04:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter! View Post
Because thats what your wheels bolt to. EDIT: ohhhhh, you mean disk brake caliper brackets don't you? Not clear in your post. I mean drums, or rotors but only with a bolt-on spindles, you are actually meant to bolt this shim between the SPINDLE and the tube....

Depending on the orientation of the square, you can change camber (+or-) or toe.
No, either way won't matter. On a semi-floating axle, the wheels don't bolt to the brakes, they bolt to the end of the axle shaft. If you shim behind the backing plate on drum brakes all you are doing is shifting the backing plate and shoes around. The drum is still mounted to the axle flange as well as the wheel and will still run true to the axle housing. You will just wear the brake shoes and drums really odd and have them drag all the time.

To adjust a semi-floating axle, you would have to actually move the axle shaft around in relation to the axle tube. To get more camber, you would have to shift it higher in the tube and hope that there is enough play in the splines at the differential end to deal with the misalignment. To do this with a C-clip axle, you would have to re-machine the end of the housing.

Shimming works with an independent rear or front axle with a separate spindle that can be unbolted and shimmed for different angles but I don't think you would ever really be able to change a solid rear axle. If I am wrong, please post up an example of this and I will review it.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter! View Post
FYI, for rear axles, there are 4 bolt shims that will bolt between the backing plate and flange for minor adjustments too.
Please quit posting.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter! View Post
Because thats what your wheels bolt to. EDIT: ohhhhh, you mean disk brake caliper brackets don't you? Not clear in your post. I mean drums, or rotors but only with a bolt-on spindles, you are actually meant to bolt this shim between the SPINDLE and the tube....

Depending on the orientation of the square, you can change camber (+or-) or toe.

Not for FF axles obviously.............

Edit: I thought these were pretty cool too!
http://www.lightracing.com/products/...f-road-fastrax
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwenil View Post

Shimming works with an independent rear or front axle with a [COLOR="red"]separate spindle that can be unbolted and shimmed for different angles[/COLOR}but I don't think you would ever really be able to change a solid rear axle. If I am wrong, please post up an example of this and I will review it.
I have no example of a solid rear axle because that is NOT what my post said.
Your first post was unclear, hence the confused reply.
You can jump to whatever conclusion you think, but we are both right...
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter! View Post
I have no example of a solid rear axle because that is NOT what my post said.
Your first post was unclear, hence the confused reply.
You can jump to whatever conclusion you think, but we are both right...
Just shut up
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:24 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I guess you missed the whole part of this question being about SOLID AXLES.
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:01 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicjoe23 View Post
Can you adjust the camber on a solid axle?

If so, how? The only way I can think that you might be able to would be with a torch to heat the tubes and set it that way. . .seems like camber for a solid axle is something that once it's set that's what you've got.

Thanks!
Torch and a bunch of rags soaked in ice water is how we fine tuned camber on circle track (the 190 mph stuff) full floating 9" rear ends. Never tried to go more than .5 degrees or we would just swap to a different housing.
That was with ball type outer splines as well...

Last edited by MAster-O-Turbonics; 10-27-2012 at 06:02 AM.
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