Figure others out there might have the same issue I did when making a square drive shaft with Square Tube (ST)
How do you center it?
For my front I use a 2" ST with 0.25 wall that fit a 1.5" ST with just less than 0.25" wall. Ground the typical grove to fit.
The T-case end 2" end was an easy fit, just needed to cut the tube short and slip it on.
However the axle yoke short end 1.5" square tube was giving me issues. Finally I just cut the male part of the slip yoke off, about 1.5" above the splines and then cut the splines 3/4" of an inch from the start of the splines. Slipped this into the cut off yoke after grinding down the 4 sides at an angle so the square tube would fit. I left a good gap and welded it up with lots of rod.
It might be as nice as other, but it's something I could do in my garage.
I used a Ford 1330 yoke as it much faster / easier to remove a u-joint compared to other 1330 yokes. (The inside measurement between the ears are less on some)
The Yoke is also clearanced with a 4.5" grinder, as is the pinion yoke, to allow for more u-joint angle.
How do you center it?
For my front I use a 2" ST with 0.25 wall that fit a 1.5" ST with just less than 0.25" wall. Ground the typical grove to fit.
The T-case end 2" end was an easy fit, just needed to cut the tube short and slip it on.
However the axle yoke short end 1.5" square tube was giving me issues. Finally I just cut the male part of the slip yoke off, about 1.5" above the splines and then cut the splines 3/4" of an inch from the start of the splines. Slipped this into the cut off yoke after grinding down the 4 sides at an angle so the square tube would fit. I left a good gap and welded it up with lots of rod.
It might be as nice as other, but it's something I could do in my garage.
I used a Ford 1330 yoke as it much faster / easier to remove a u-joint compared to other 1330 yokes. (The inside measurement between the ears are less on some)
The Yoke is also clearanced with a 4.5" grinder, as is the pinion yoke, to allow for more u-joint angle.