Highsteer crossover question, with link to a pic - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

PIA · 02-22-2003, 09:53 PM

dont know if the link will be big enough to illustrate my questions/clarification, can email for posting

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/ksdaoski2...c=ph%26.view=t

Have high steer arms. Driver side has 1 TRE hole, passenger side has 2 TRE holes.

Rear holes are for the tie rod (knuckle to knuckle)

Front passenger side hole is for drag link.

Measurement from ball joint to front pass. side hole is 7.5"

I believe that means I would want a pitman arm that is 7.5" long, from the Tie rod point to the point where it bolts to the gear box.

Doing that would mean the tie rod and the drag link would not be parallel with each other. To obtain a parallel setup would require a pitman arm that is 5.5" long.

What can I do, what is best? And am I interpreting my searches correctly? Or do I go with a Y setup, pulling that drag link to about 6" from the ball joint, or pretty much right in line with a stock style pitman arm (5.5")?

Thanks!

PIA · 02-22-2003, 09:58 PM

ok, should throw in some more info that I meant to before.

YJ, Dana 44, SOA. Do not have issues with anything rubbing springs, mounts, etc. Will go with tie tod ends, not hiem. Just trying to get the best steering setup without having to go with trial and error.

Robert · 02-23-2003, 01:42 PM

The difference in pitman arm length change the amount of "throw" you get out of it. The longer pitman arm will move the drag link further and faster than the shorter pitman arm would.
This could cause you twitchy steering at speed, as well as oversteering the steering stops on the axle. I don't think the links not being totally parallel will hurt anything. When the links are not parallel on a horizontal plane, they will cause bumpsteer, but I don't think it will hurt much on a vertical plane.
Try out both pitman arms and see what work best for you.

I would also run the draglink to the tie rod, instead of the steering arm. That way, the right side steering arm does not see as much force put on it with every steering input. I run a GM 1 ton TRE on the right side, with a mounting hole in it just for this purpose.

02-22-2003, 09:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
PIA Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Member # 1739 Location: NW Posts: 873	Highsteer crossover question, with link to a pic dont know if the link will be big enough to illustrate my questions/clarification, can email for posting http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/ksdaoski2...c=ph%26.view=t Have high steer arms. Driver side has 1 TRE hole, passenger side has 2 TRE holes. Rear holes are for the tie rod (knuckle to knuckle) Front passenger side hole is for drag link. Measurement from ball joint to front pass. side hole is 7.5" I believe that means I would want a pitman arm that is 7.5" long, from the Tie rod point to the point where it bolts to the gear box. Doing that would mean the tie rod and the drag link would not be parallel with each other. To obtain a parallel setup would require a pitman arm that is 5.5" long. What can I do, what is best? And am I interpreting my searches correctly? Or do I go with a Y setup, pulling that drag link to about 6" from the ball joint, or pretty much right in line with a stock style pitman arm (5.5")? Thanks! __________________ If the path does not have any obstacles, it probably won’t lead you anywhere Last edited by PIA; 02-22-2003 at 10:54 PM.

02-22-2003, 09:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
PIA Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Member # 1739 Location: NW Posts: 873	ok, should throw in some more info that I meant to before. YJ, Dana 44, SOA. Do not have issues with anything rubbing springs, mounts, etc. Will go with tie tod ends, not hiem. Just trying to get the best steering setup without having to go with trial and error. __________________ If the path does not have any obstacles, it probably won’t lead you anywhere

02-23-2003, 01:42 PM	#3 (permalink)
Robert Registered User Join Date: Jun 2000 Member # 1050 Location: West Sacramento, Kalleyforneeya Posts: 2,399	The difference in pitman arm length change the amount of "throw" you get out of it. The longer pitman arm will move the drag link further and faster than the shorter pitman arm would. This could cause you twitchy steering at speed, as well as oversteering the steering stops on the axle. I don't think the links not being totally parallel will hurt anything. When the links are not parallel on a horizontal plane, they will cause bumpsteer, but I don't think it will hurt much on a vertical plane. Try out both pitman arms and see what work best for you. I would also run the draglink to the tie rod, instead of the steering arm. That way, the right side steering arm does not see as much force put on it with every steering input. I run a GM 1 ton TRE on the right side, with a mounting hole in it just for this purpose. __________________ Ask me anything about a Cummins, I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

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