Gear Changing....What would you do?

[jstandle]

Hi All,

I'm trying to make a decision here and thought I'd see what you guys would do, here is the vehicle in question:

85 Cherokee, 2.8L V6, 904 Automatic, 32" Super Swampers, 90% offroad, 10% on, 3.73 gears.

I thought I had 3.07 or 3.55 gears but I just checked the tag on the front diff today and it shows 3.73's which is odd cause what I've read says these came in Tow Packaged Jeeps, mine doesn't have a tow package, so thats wierd.

Anyway, I can't decide wether to go 4.56's or 4.88's. I've got a line on a used Dana 4.56 R&P for the rear for $100, and I've already got a busted (stuck in lock) detroit locker for the rear. That just leaves me with buying 4.56's for the front, likely would just be Genuine Gears since they're the cheapest and they're like $120.

If I were to go 4.88's we're talking another $120 just for gears. I'm just not sure if going from 4.56 to 4.88 is worth that much.

I'm just hoping that going from 3.73 to 4.56 is worth the $400+ just in parts. My good friends dad has done lots of R&P installs so I'm hoping I can hit him up for helping setup the gears.

I might just say fook the whole thing and just weld the spiders front and rear and hit the trails.

Let me know what you guys think.

Jordan

[Yunaderis]

i would go with the the 4.56..its a bit cheaper in your situation...but dont get genuine gears, go with precision gears. people recommend the Precision gears more ..and thats for a reason....

[JeepinDoug]

Tranfer case gear low kit. You got good gears for long road trips on taller tires.

[Rockabilly]

if it was my cheap ass I'd go for the used ones. I got my 5.89s used for next to nothing.

[captain]

just go with the 4.56's...they're plenty low enough, especially if you're just running 32's.

[INFAMOUSBUTCHER]

i welded the stock 35 then went wheelin the next day with 33 muds and grenaded the frt and rear spiders plus a frt u joint on the driver side axle shaft in the same spot after about 45 minutes of wheelin i would just upgrade axles or atleats gear ratios but stay away from welding a 35 , and espeacialy a 30

if its basicly a trail only rig then spend 150$ on a 4.10 14 bolt then the rest on a 4.10 d44 frt lift it 6 inches and cut the fenders and put some 35s on it . youll have plenty of power in 4lo and plenty low gears with an auto if you splice a toggle switch to the power wire on the atuo wire harness to keep you from shifting from 1st to second or keep you in what gear you want . but i think that might be a prob with just the aw4 not quite sure .

[jstandle]

Originally posted by INFAMOUSBUTCHER
i welded the stock 35 then went wheelin the next day with 33 muds and grenaded the frt and rear spiders plus a frt u joint on the driver side axle shaft in the same spot after about 45 minutes of wheelin i would just upgrade axles or atleats gear ratios but stay away from welding a 35 , and espeacialy a 30

if its basicly a trail only rig then spend 150$ on a 4.10 14 bolt then the rest on a 4.10 d44 frt lift it 6 inches and cut the fenders and put some 35s on it . youll have plenty of power in 4lo and plenty low gears with an auto if you splice a toggle switch to the power wire on the atuo wire harness to keep you from shifting from 1st to second or keep you in what gear you want . but i think that might be a prob with just the aw4 not quite sure .

I can see the 30/35 being a problem with the inline 6, but the 2.8L V6 is totally gutless. I don't wheel hard, I'm looking more for running through deep snow and mud. 32's and 3"s of lift have got me through a lot so far so I have no reason to go higher or bigger yet. I just learn to tackle what I know my Jeep can do, I still have lots of fun and to me thats what it's all about.

I'm not sure what you're referring to about the toggle switch and the gear changing, I've got the Chrysler 904 in it so it has selections for first second and drive.

Thanks!
Jordan

[teapot]

i wouldn't weld the spiders it will only cause more problems down the road.

[jstandle]

Originally posted by teapot
i wouldn't weld the spiders it will only cause more problems down the road.

I thought as long as they're welded right they've been known to last a really long time? I'm not hard on my stuff and since the Jeep is real gutless I figured welded would work out fine.

[robselina]

weld it and don't worry about it. It's cheap and easy to do and it'll last a long time if you're not too hard on it. My CJ is just fine with a welded front and locked rear. You only really screw up daily driving if you weld up the front on a full time 4wd rig, then steering on the street is a PITA. What rear end do you have though? The 35 or the Mopar 8.25?

[jstandle]

Originally posted by robselina
weld it and don't worry about it. It's cheap and easy to do and it'll last a long time if you're not too hard on it. My CJ is just fine with a welded front and locked rear. You only really screw up daily driving if you weld up the front on a full time 4wd rig, then steering on the street is a PITA. What rear end do you have though? The 35 or the Mopar 8.25?

It's the weak Dana 35c

[Oatmeal]

I'm not sure about the 30 and 35 but, going to that low a gear might require a carrier change......something to look into

[INFAMOUSBUTCHER]

if you dont see ANY rocks then you MIGHT be ok

[moveaside]

You got a couple of options 3.73's aren't bad for having 32's and is stronger than 4.56's or 4.88's. Spend the money in a klunev or t-case gears instead. The other is making a small jump to 4.10's you can find a 4.10 axle at the yards if you look on another XJ and it will bolt right up. Then all you have to do is regear the rear. You already have the 3.73's which is the carrier break for the taller gears you are looking for so spending for r&p is all you have to do. I'd save yourself the money and weld the rear and leave the front open. An open front will not break as easy and won't bind up the steering at the worst possible times for you. Like climbing up some slabs for instance. You can get 35 parts at any yard cheap and carry cheap spares. You shouldn't break a 35 with 32's if your not wheeling it hard. Or if your going to do it, do it all the way get the 4.88's and spend a ton of money on a 30 and 35 making them weak as hell with the r&P being too small and grenading inside the diff. At least you'll be cool when it makes that ping/boom sound Hopes this helps personally I'd just wheel what you got and put the money in beer and gas so you can wheel every weekend instead. It doesn't sound like you breaking anything or getting stuck with what you have now.

[maxwell417]

My Isuzu Trooper came with the same weak 2.8 you have. Trooper is OEM geared 4.55. Swapped in a 3.4, running 33"s power is good enough, but had 31"s and 3.4 I miss the gitty up and go since upped to 33"s , so I am regearing to 5.38s .