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Old 10-27-2003, 12:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Main Seal

I have never done one with the motor in the vehicle

Can I change a YJ 6 cyl rear main without pulling the case and tranny?
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp
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Old 10-27-2003, 01:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Its no problem with all of it still in Just remove the rear main bearing cap and take a small punch and tap it aroud the crank till you can get a hold of it on the other side and pull it out. Thread the new one in the same way and replace cap to propper specs.
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeep2.5
Its no problem with all of it still in Just remove the rear main bearing cap and take a small punch and tap it aroud the crank till you can get a hold of it on the other side and pull it out. Thread the new one in the same way and replace cap to propper specs.
not exactly your rig, but i was able to do it in my 97 Ram with v8/auto

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php
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Old 10-27-2003, 02:24 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jeep2.5
Its no problem with all of it still in Just remove the rear main bearing cap and take a small punch and tap it aroud the crank till you can get a hold of it on the other side and pull it out. Thread the new one in the same way and replace cap to propper specs.
Don't use a STEEL punch! Get a brass drift for this so you don't scar any of the sealing surfaces. And be careful of Sneaky Pete tools, the braided steel can still do some damage.

Another tip I've heard is to put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer nut and gently turn the engine over to spen the seal out. Note that I have not personally tried this......

2 XJs had their rear mains changed in the Slickrock campground in Moab a couple of weeks back. A 4-6 hour job.

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Old 10-27-2003, 02:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I know with the 4.0s you can so I imagine the 4banger would be the same.

EDIT: I thought you were talking about your jeep. Yes you can do it w/o pulling everything back.
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Old 10-27-2003, 03:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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best write up I have found one the web:

http://www.darksiderz.co.uk/technica...main/index.htm

might have to register but it's a good site anyways.
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Old 10-27-2003, 04:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hi Keith!


How are ya mon? Hey, there are a bunch of write ups out there, so I suggest read them, since tehre are a bunch of tips on the repalcement of teh main seal.


The one I liek the most is teh one Larousx posted before on:

http://jeepin.com/features/rearmain/index.asp


I recomemnd getting two sets, since those things can fall apart (mine had a hairline crack on teh rubber, so I got another one). Use soap water to isntall them, it makes teh job easier, at least it did for me).

ANother good write ups here:

http://www.bc4x4.com/faqs/yj.cfm?cat=5&faqid=40

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/motors/rearmainseal.shtml

Make sure taht the seal lips face the engine!

Good luck!

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Old 10-27-2003, 04:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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two piece main easy to replace, turning the motor over will NOT take the upper half of the seal out, dont put the seal in backwards (easy to do)
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Old 10-27-2003, 06:21 PM   #10 (permalink)
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hey keith.. so your a noob again..
man thought you knew it all..
lol

hey what do you tell everyone ..


USE THE SEARCH BUTTONUSE THE SEARCH BUTTON




so there.. go find it..
laters..
yea you can do it.. its e-z..
just use a brass punch tho
and I have tried to use the installer wire.. forget it..
just push it in till it gets tight.. turn the shaft to finish it..
make sure its in all the way tho..
use some assy lube for the seal.. when you install it..
if you cant get it.. lol
use a bigger hammer.. on it
later ..
mike
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Old 10-28-2003, 10:50 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by mikeswrangler

man thought you knew it all..
Suck me

Thanks for the links guys
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Old 10-28-2003, 05:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Keith, You'll need to drop the passeger side motor mount out of the way to drop the pan.
Push one side of the seal and then grab the other and rotate it out.
The trick is installing the new one.
***DO NOT OIL IT***
You could actually put a slight coat of vaseline or assm lube on the seal side only. On the block side of the seal use liquid dish soap to make it slippery.
Oil will swell the rubber making everything tight as h3ll. It's already gonna be tight pushing back around, tight enough to shear rubber off the block side of the seal.
On the cap seal use oil if you want, it doesn't matter.
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Old 10-30-2003, 07:51 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeepinDoug
Keith, You'll need to drop the passeger side motor mount out of the way to drop the pan.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Are you sure?
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Old 10-30-2003, 08:50 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Hmmm, I did not have to drop the motor mount on mine, and the pan came out fine. Doug, do you have a body lift kit or something that moved your engine up? ine was ok, and I had no problems removing the pan. Again, that was on a YJ.

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Old 10-30-2003, 12:43 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeepinDoug
Keith, You'll need to drop the passeger side motor mount out of the way to drop the pan.
Push one side of the seal and then grab the other and rotate it out.
The trick is installing the new one.
***DO NOT OIL IT***
You could actually put a slight coat of vaseline or assm lube on the seal side only. On the block side of the seal use liquid dish soap to make it slippery.
Oil will swell the rubber making everything tight as h3ll. It's already gonna be tight pushing back around, tight enough to shear rubber off the block side of the seal.
On the cap seal use oil if you want, it doesn't matter.
I never removed the motor mount. Hmmm. Are you talking about a 2.5 maybe
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Old 10-30-2003, 12:50 PM   #16 (permalink)
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hey kieth..
ok.. heres how to do it..

remove all mounts
remove all fuel lines and other stuff connected to the engine.. including the transmission..
pull out the engine.. replace engine with a 350 chev..
and get adapter for trans.. put it together and there you go.. good as new..

hey

good luck..

its e-z to do realy..
just take your time doing it..
dont let it get you mad..

later

mike
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Old 10-30-2003, 05:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Mine's a CJ5 with a 4.2, same configuration. I use a MORE bomb proof mount and had to disconnect the bushing section just enough to let it drop out the way. Remember the pass side has the bulge for the dist and dip stick, it's hard to get the pan past the mount b/c of the ear in the pan.
It's not a big deal to do, just stuff a 2x4 between the alt mount and frame rail.
If you have stock mounts than maybe it's easier to get the pan out, I can't remember, it's been years since I had to fix a stock mount.
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Last edited by JeepinDoug; 10-30-2003 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 10-31-2003, 11:58 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by mikeswrangler
hey kieth..
ok.. heres how to do it..

remove all mounts
remove all fuel lines and other stuff connected to the engine.. including the transmission..
pull out the engine.. replace engine with a 350 chev..
and get adapter for trans.. put it together and there you go.. good as new..

hey

good luck..

its e-z to do realy..
just take your time doing it..
dont let it get you mad..

later

mike
Its my brothers mall crawler and its going up for sale
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