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Old 11-13-2003, 11:57 AM   #1 (permalink)
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lets talk about line locks

Im converting my 14 to a disc, and am torn between spending the money on the set with or without an ebrake, definitly want ebrake, just dont know if i should go line lock or mechanical. What are your thought pros/cons of line lock. Did my searching and just not finding the answer. also where is the 14 bolt write up I know its here somewhere.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you seen a disk brake setup using the mechanical e-brake that actually holds the vehicle? I have heard of issues with that, the bigger the tire, the worse it is. I was looking in to using a Jamar type inline lock. It's not electric, however it is hydraulic so it won't hold in the event of lost brake pressure (unless it's set before the pressure drops). I understand some place require a complete redundant mechanical ebrake for inspection reasons. We don't have that out here in AZ though.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:08 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: lets talk about line locks

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Originally posted by myeyesore
Im converting my 14 to a disc, and am torn between spending the money on the set with or without an ebrake, definitly want ebrake, just dont know if i should go line lock or mechanical. What are your thought pros/cons of line lock. Did my searching and just not finding the answer. also where is the 14 bolt write up I know its here somewhere.
The standard e-brake cable setup uses a completely separate mechanical system to activate the brakes. If you lose your hydraulics, the e-brake should still function.

If you use a hydraulic line-lock, you run the risk that you can lose both your primary and emergency brakes with a failure IF the failure is between the line-lock and the brakes. If you put a line-lock under the hood, any rupture towards the rear will kill your brakes. That includes both lines and wheel cylinders.

Running an electric remote line-lock on the axle removes a bunch of hydraulic line (including the flex line) but some hydraulic exposure remains. And you also have the disadvantage that you *NEED* electric power to run the locks. If you lose engine and battery, you're sunk.

You certainly can use line-locks, but you have some pretty significant issues to be aware of.

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Old 11-13-2003, 12:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Re: lets talk about line locks

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Originally posted by ChiXJeff


The standard e-brake cable setup uses a completely separate mechanical system to activate the brakes. If you lose your hydraulics, the e-brake should still function.

If you use a hydraulic line-lock, you run the risk that you can lose both your primary and emergency brakes with a failure IF the failure is between the line-lock and the brakes. If you put a line-lock under the hood, any rupture towards the rear will kill your brakes. That includes both lines and wheel cylinders.

Running an electric remote line-lock on the axle removes a bunch of hydraulic line (including the flex line) but some hydraulic exposure remains. And you also have the disadvantage that you *NEED* electric power to run the locks. If you lose engine and battery, you're sunk.

You certainly can use line-locks, but you have some pretty significant issues to be aware of.

ChiXJeff
Don't forget that electric line locks are usually rated for intermittent use, not constant duty. If the solenoid overheats or opens, there goes the brakes. That's why I prefer the Jamar ones over electric
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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So is it a better idea to get the cadie callipers so I can run a normal ebrake or figure somthing else out such as what were talking about. Or what about the ebrake on the drive shaft, I know nothing about this emergancy brake crap. Just want somthing to stop me incase I lose everything else.

Gonna run 39.5 or so, I hope, so need a decent amount of pressure to keep it on a hill. this is all for my 2nd gen toy build up.

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Old 11-13-2003, 12:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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E-brake mounted on the transfer case usually works well.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Where do I find the parts on the t case brake.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:41 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok getting a ton on a search for the t-case break, looks like somthing to look into will leave the thread for a few minutes incase anyone wants to add, but will delete it soon for its lack of knowledge by me and redundancy.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is this for your Sub or Toy?
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Its for the toy, Im pullling my 14 and 60 from the sub gonna put it back to stock and sell it for next to nothing, then build all my running gear and put it under the toy. Since Ill have the axles sitting in my garage for a while, might as well do it right, so gonna swap to discs, and just trying to figure what to do about ebrake, gonna go dual cases so Ive got time to figure it out, just dont want to buy the chevy callipers then want the caddies.
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Old 11-13-2003, 01:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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There are constant duty locks designed to be used for this puhrpose. The ones I know of are "mirco-lock" and are used a fair amount on older large trucks, tom lock all 4 wheels for whinching, etc. One way or the other, it's NOT an e-brake. All you're doing is keeping the fluid from draining back when the petal is released. Any failure thatg renders the brakes inoperative would deafeat the lock as well. They can be used for parking, but it's not advised, as you can get a bleed down, and then the brakes gradually release. I would definetly recomend building a mechanical parking brake, but you can get away without one.
-John
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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http://www.allprooffroad.com/brake.html
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:43 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thats awsome VT_Toy, I was just typing in all pro to check those out after I found out that caddie callipers are 110 a piece! thanks for the link looks like that the way Im going.
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Old 11-13-2003, 02:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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$300 bucks for the kit, wow, lets see, 2 caddie callipers 220 or 2 chevy callipers plus 300. but the t-case is a lot stronger than the caddie, shoot gotta sleep on this one. Are there any other options out there? Should start a poll
1. Run your stick toy without an e brake
2. Go with the caddie
3. Go with the t-case
4. Bacon
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Old 11-13-2003, 03:08 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by VT_Toy
http://www.allprooffroad.com/brake.html
looks a lot like a HAD set up... but its cheaper at HAD...

j
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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14 bolt bible

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Old 11-13-2003, 06:35 PM   #18 (permalink)
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looks a lot like a HAD set up... but its cheaper at HAD...

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What's HAD?
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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FWIW, I had a micro lock on my 14-bolt and never had a problem. Like stated, they can bleed down but mine held, overnite at least.
Im going to run it again, but will also add a mechanical one to the t-case. If I snap my driveshaft, I can at least have another option if need be. Id do both if I were you.

just my $.02
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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AaronT used a rotor and caliper off a goldwing motorcycle on his yota t-case. You might PM him and see if he ever got it all set up.
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Old 11-13-2003, 08:11 PM   #21 (permalink)
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HAD, High Angle, They do have a cheaper set up. Same deal though, Still thinking that it would cost less to go Caddie. Guy at my local parts shop thought that maybe a new 1 ton with rear discs has a seperate ebrake thing, I dont really understand. I dont think it would work cause I got my brakets from shaker, I think the brakets would have to different. dont really know....
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