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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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I'm wanting to get rid of my T-Case Drop
I bought the Skyjacker 2.5" suspension lift. It raised my Tj 3". Which is good. It came with the T-Case Drop for correcting the driveshaft angle. I don't like the T-Case Drop. My Question is can I use a different drive shaft and get rid of the T-case drop?
Or an I stuck with this. My other Options are using a 1" body lift with 1" motor mounts. I don't realy want to do the body lift. I just want the extra ground clearance under my jeep back. Any help, please.... |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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[CENTER][SIZE="5"][URL="http://www.strong-arms.com"]Strong Arms "Survival Slings" For Sale PM me for a PBB only price[/URL] [/SIZE][/CENTER] |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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Ok, I'm on track now. I found the slip-yoke eliminator kit and a longer driveshaft. Wow 600.00 buck just to gain 1 1/2" of ground clearance.. What a bargin>
One more thing, do you have to take the whole transfer apart to install the kit or can you do it through the back? This may be a spring project.. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Member # 62
Location: Omaha NE
Posts: 5,992
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Quote:
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Jeff Neves |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Member # 5861
Location: California
Posts: 8,491
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hmmm for a 2.5 inch lift on a TJ, I do not think you would even need to use the t case drop setup; why not remove the t-case brackets, and verify if your rear angle gets way high first, vibration, etc. I think you may be able to get away for a while without the t case drop, but again, check it first.
On the other hand, I totally agree about no binding in the back. I had not SYE, and the shaft bind and I broke on the trail (dumbass ) Had to two wheel drive and winch myself out, with a leaky rear case (stuffed some tape and a coke bottle to prevent mpore fluid loss) ![]() Trust me, get the SYE, a bigger shaft (high angle, or Woods), and $600 will seem like a good investment. Also look for used T Cases with slip yoke eliminator. I have a TJ one I may sell, since I just built a nicer one ![]() GUi |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Member # 10068
Posts: 648
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Go with one from Jess at High Angle, or get one built locally. Tom's stuff hasn't held up well for me at all.
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<>< '98 XJ - 3/4ton - D300 4:1 - 39.5" IROKs - cage [URL=http://www.rockmonkey4x4.com]RockMonkey 4x4[/URL] '04 PSD - Tow Rig |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 25765
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 8
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Another good opt. to consider is adj. upper arms so no matter what you do. you can always change your pinion angle to suit any drive line w/any amount of lift.
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STUK SUX. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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Ok, Great advice from every one.
One more thing, Adjustable upper a-arms? Do you mean upper control arm or are they a-arms. I didn't know you could buy adjustable ones. Would that not mess somthing else up by changing the pinion angle. Brakes, coils, ect? This sounds like a good quick fix, and Then I'll do the SYE in the spring. I emailed the drive shaft place here on the beard on monday with no responce, So I posted here. I also have a local shop that can use my old driveshaft and cut and weld the new ends to it, he said it would save my about 80-100.00. So having a custom drive shaft made won't be that bad. Does any one know if I have to take the T-case out to put in the SYE or can I do it in the jeep.. I know it sounds stupid worring about the driveshaft angle on 3" lift, But this is my daily driver and my weeknight/weekend wheeler. I don't need to break anything I don't have to.. Plus this leaves me extra money for all the CHROME acces.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 25765
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 8
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I didn't say a-arms. I said upper arms(Controll arms). RE makes good ones and you can get ind. parts from them instead of a whole kit. no It wont have any affect on the axle with the amount of lift your talking about. they wont need adj. very far and when you adj. them set them so your t-case output yolk and your pinion yolk are the same angle."parrellel (sp)" so the angle at both ends of the drive shaft are the same=no vibes.
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STUK SUX. |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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I was just flinging some poo at ya. I wasn't trying to be rude.
I'll fling some poo at my self now, Who is RE. I called Skyjacker about the adjustable ones and they want 350.00 for doulbe hem joint and 249.00 for single. Wow, I thought about making my own. But if I can buy them for around 150.00 , that saves a pain in my ass. Does RE have a web site? Thanks Again.. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Member # 3301
Location: Chandler,AZ
Posts: 1,534
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zooterboy ---There is some money involved in getting rid of the tranny drop.......this also addresses the problematic slip yoke on the transfer case rear output. Like someone already said, get a SYE with a CV style driveshaft.....I have dealt with Tom and he is very fair.
To improve/relieve the operating angle of the CV even more, like you said, put the 1" body lift on AND do the .75" motor mount lift at the same time (3/4" lift at the MM is a 1" lift at the fan end). And, for what it's worth, the 3/4" MM lift not only tips the fan up 1 full inch....but physically LOWERS the transfer case yoke output right around 1/4"(kinda like having a 1/4" lowering kit).....also relieves the CV angle about 1.6 degrees. All of this adds up to a happier CV and minimal vib issues. Plus, you will need that 1" body lift if you try for a flat bellypan in the future.
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http://gearinstalls.com 2001 Taco auto 3.4L stock Last edited by ZUK; 01-30-2004 at 03:14 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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I know there is money involved. I 'm just trying to hold onto as much of it s I can for my new gears. I need to do my 4:10 first. Thats 800-900.00 installed.
So I'm just looking for a simple fix for right now. The SYe and new drive shaft are the next thing on the list. I figured I'd try to figure a cheaper alternative to getting rid of it now. And yea, The flat belly pan was in the future. It's a never ending love affair, of parts. I have a few friend who have the pro comp spring and shock lifts, about 2". They don't have any T-case drop and it looks so much better. I was hoping the adjustable upper contol arm thing would get me by for now. I checked the angle and it's not off by much without the T-case drop. So moving the pinion a couple degrees might work for now. Then in the future I'll have the upper control arms. I already have the lowers from skyjacker. Plus with the T-case drop my jeep don't like to shift to 2nd and reverse. So thats where I'm at. I know there are the right ways and the wrong ways of doing things. I'm looking for the middle way right now.. So can some one tell me who RE is? |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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instead of saving for gears why not save for a decent rear axle? or do you have a d44 rear... if you do have the 44 rear you are good to go if you have the d35 i would not put one dime in it.
__________________
Blake http://www.lockitupoffroad.net |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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No, I don't have a D44. I realy don't plan on getting one either.
I only run 32X10.5X15 and may get 33 in a couple years. Like I said, I use it as a every day driver and wheel on the weekends. I don't do anything to hard on it, I have a YJ for that stuff. So what is wrong with the d35. I have 165,000 hard miles on my YJ and no problems. Could a simple axle upgrade get me by if I had to. They seem to make some nice axles out there for a resonable price without going through the hastle for changing to a 44. I'm still trying to fine out who RE is, about the adjustable upper control arms.. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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the biggest prop with teh d35 is the housing. after that its the toothpick shafts.
alot of it depends on your type of wheelin too. the 35 with 33"s or so is decent for mud and trails but when you get bound up in deep ruts or rocks it can snap very easily. also yea you could super 35 it but for that money you could get a decent axle like an 8.8 or 44... but like you said htis is primarily your driver so you'll be ok just take it easy on it. i know a guy with a very capable trail rig and just bought a TJon 35s for a DD. hes slappin 4.88's in it so it canbe driven(4popper) and after that he's not touchin it.
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Blake http://www.lockitupoffroad.net Last edited by gumbojeepyj; 01-31-2004 at 12:53 PM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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I finaly found out who RE is Rubicaon Express. They have a nice set of Rear adjustable control arms for 200.00. They look like they are built tough. I'll have to paint them red to match all the other red heep stuff..
Thanks for all the info, I even found a great article about installing the rear uppers for pinion angle change for my lift height. |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Member # 24390
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 163
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if you buy direct from RE their prices are usually pretty steep. Check with a few vendors, local distributors, etc. I order from DC4WD so I don't have to pay CA sales tax, but the parts still drop ship directly from RE (and the prices are way cheaper)
another note - a motor mount lift won't make your tranny any easier going in to 2nd and reverse. It's basically tilting the entire driveline back some so it will make the problem worse. When I did mine I took out the shifter and beat it with a hammer to curve it forward. also had to cut out some of the hole in the body pan to give more rear-ward movement. ![]() another note - there are 2 types of SYEs. one is lovingly referred to as a 'hack and tap' where you basically chop the existing output yoke down. the other (and in my opinion better) option is a new short-shaft, that replaces the output shaft. yes, you'll wanna take the t-case out to do this but it's really not a big deal, pretty easy. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Member # 20362
Location: Indiana
Posts: 59
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I ended up finding the Re uppers for 199.50 shipped to my door. That was the best price I found, RE had them for 199.95 on their webpage, but I had to pay shipping. So I saved about 15.00.
I found a couple other kinds out their, RE's looked stronger and were priced better. I found the Sye and New Driveshaft at MAD4wd for 500.00 for both. That's a great deal. That will have to wait till it warms up a bit, and I get some more buckalero's saved up.. I'm going to have to get a part time job just to pay for all this!! |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Member # 25765
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 8
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Sorry about the abb. . it makes typing faster. DC4WD if you havent already bought them. I've bought tons of stuff from him and he beats the living hell out of everyones prices. as the person stated above.
__________________
STUK SUX. |
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