Dana 30 Disco to Non Disco

[hjeepxj]

Ive been searching and looking at info, but I have some q's that have yet to be answered.


I have a Disconnect front end right now.

I am planning on swapping to 4.10 gears, Non-Disconnect snap-ringed 760 shafts (297), and a locker of some type.


Which would be the best option and why? This is all assuming I dont find a Non-Disco front end.


Get the 4.10 front end, and use Randy's Disco delete, and use the 297x shafts.

Get the 4.10 front end, and swap the R&P and carrier over to a Non-Disco front end, then just plop the 297x shafts in.

The reason for this q, is because I have a Non-Disco axle, and if I can save the headache/$$ for the Disco delete, I might as well.

Also, I am under the impression that when you remove a carrier, as long as you dont take the R&P off, you dont have to re-set it up. Am I horribly off? And if that is correct, it would also seem like you would have to set up the R&P if you swap the gears and carrier to a new housing?

???




Also, what has to be done to the Vacuum hoses/wires that come from the tcase to complete this swap?

One last q, what all needs to be done to snap ring the 760s? Im 99.9% sure you can just plop 760s in place of 297s, but I want them snapringed for extra strength/assurance.

Thanks in Advance!

[deadmeat]

I do not have personal experiance, but a friend of mine does.


the disco housing seems to be stronger, he has bent Non disco housings, but never the disco housing.

I would do the Randy's disco removal kit. Or if you could find shafts yourself just do that. The seal is no big deal.
Just remember when you do that to the disc housing you need to remove the bearing that is at the disco on the carrier side. And move the seal to the carrier housing. You could just leave the shift motor there if you find your own shafts, or use a block off plate like the Randy's kit.

i would block off the vacuum BEFORE the transfer case, it removes more possible vacuum leak points, and is not needed for the case at all, that is just where it goes so it knows when to shift the disco. That joint is right near the charcoal canister, kind of between the canister and the starter. i know this well because I accidentally disconnected it when I replaced my starter.



And yes, if you pull the carrier and do not change the gears, just put everything back where it came from and you are OK.

[InsaneEd]

Just replace the disco housing with the non disco it will be easier, since you have a non disco axle... I know several people that have done this and no one has broken the housing yet. Yes you would have to set up the R&P if you swap the gears and carrier to a new housing.

[hjeepxj]

Cool, thanks guys!



Anyone else?

[Keith Strong]

I know its a standard response, but by the time you get all those parts you could have Pick N pulled a D44

[hjeepxj]

Originally posted by Keith Strong
I know its a standard response, but by the time you get all those parts you could have Pick N pulled a D44

Well, the cost of all of this will be the following:

4.10 front end: 125$ (jukyard)
Disco delete: 28$
Quickloc: 150$ (used)


sooo, roughly 300$



And plus, for the wheeling that this rig will be seeing, I just need a 30.


After this rig is "done" (4.10s, 33s, 30front/44rear, lockers) I'll start up on "Teh Beast" aka, HP 60s f/r, 37"s, stroker, 4:1 tcase.