cv strength vs. standard u-joint - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 04-27-2004, 05:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cv strength vs. standard u-joint

im getting new drievshafts for my scout II soon and i need to find the angles that my driveshafts will be at. i can either just get the CV joints (more money,i know) or the standard u joints. i bet i will be getting a cv for the front but if i can get the standard u-joint setup would that be better than the cv strength wise? anythin else that i should know about cv's such as maintenance? i did do a search but i didnt get what i was looking for.. thanks
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Old 04-27-2004, 07:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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CVs suck. They really suck to rebuild in the woods. Avoid 'em if you can. Don't bother buying 'em. It really sucks to rebuild one you just paid for. Find the closest one in the boneyard, and stock up.
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Old 04-27-2004, 10:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey dapunk are you frigin stupid have you ever heard of high angle drive line 1 ton c/vs they are strong as hell the cost money but everything that is worth a shit does if you buy junk you get junk...
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Old 04-28-2004, 04:26 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Personally, I think credit card wheelers who buy every high tech part out of a catalog because some magazine/web site/know-it-all tells 'em they have to have it are stupid. Dodge Durango CV shafts are a direct bolt in to my truck. I get 'em free, because they often get warranteed for a squeak. Dealer techs just swap shafts (they don't bother rebuilding the Cardan joint. Hmm.) So yeah, once or twice a year gotta swap/rebuild mine. It sucks if it's on the trail, and pissy know-it-all trust fund 'wheelers think it's stupid when they read about it sitting at their computers. I'm setting up my next truck to run u-joints to avoid this. I recommend the same.
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Old 04-28-2004, 08:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sometimes u-joints are not an option due to excessive angle from lift or shaft lenth. Then a cv is the only option and a good one. They can be just as strong as u-joints but they do cost more, but, nice things cost money.
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Old 04-28-2004, 09:04 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daPunk
Personally, I think credit card wheelers who buy every high tech part out of a catalog because some magazine/web site/know-it-all tells 'em they have to have it are stupid.
Quote:
pissy know-it-all trust fund 'wheelers think it's stupid when they read about it
Well I really think you need to fuc off if you are talking about me. My wife and I only made $34,000 last yearand are building a jeep the best we can everything came from a junk yard but when it came time to get the drive shafts we went all out so that we didnt have to worry about breaking them. of course they will need maint but it wont break in my rig. A shack house made out of twigs will suffice for a house to and provide shelter but thats not what I would suggest to someone if they were looking for a place to live.
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:06 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daPunk
...credit card wheelers...pissy know-it-all trust fund 'wheelers...
I think somebody here has income issues. Some of the people here, regardless of income, actually do know what the fawk they're talking about, and what works better than what. But I wouldn't want to say anything bad about cheap bastards that are defrauding their employer, or anything...
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Old 04-28-2004, 03:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm just a po-ass cracker from Alabama but I can tell you this. I will be buying high angle driveline one ton c/vs cuz Im going SOA and using 4" lift springs on my CJ and I want to lessen the chances of a breakage on the trail.

Spend more $$ up front and have more fun on the trail (less breakage)

As will all things, the strength is gonna depend on your driving style. If your wild, nothings gonna hold up.
If you have a resonable foot, you stuff should hold up fine.


I'm all for the c/v's.........pay more now, less headaches later....
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Old 04-28-2004, 04:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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put it this way

ujoint are fine for close to stock angles, and equal pinion/t-case output angles

if you go high, or cut and turn the front axle, you will NEED a cv joint just to run over 15 mph without insane vibration.

i found a cv shaft for 20 bucks from a guy who has CJ's, just get a local driveshaft shop to find you the right adapter for the t-case output and your ready to go.
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Old 04-28-2004, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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so i imagine i should get the cv's even if i dont necesarily need one for daily driving. im thinkin more for when im flexing or have some drop in the rear axle it would be helpful. im pretty sure this axle was cut and turned but i still need the cvs for the front too probably. thanks for the help
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Old 04-28-2004, 07:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I am not an expert. A single U-joint of similar size to what's used in a CV is generally stronger. But as mentioned before angles usually dictate what you have to run. If you are concerned about strength try to step up to a bigger size CV. Yes CVs take more maintenance. You have two U-joint versus one and you have the center "ball" that has to be dealt with also. What it comes down to is figure out your angles. If you can run a single u-joint. Go for it. If not run a CV that is the appropriate size/strength according to how your rig is built. As always Jesse at High Angle is very helpfull in figuring out good setups. Good luck.
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