Flex Joints - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

Kory · 02-05-2005, 10:05 AM

I'm currently drawing-up a radius arm setup for my Dodge Dakota solid axle swap. I'm leaning toward using some type of poly flex-joint at the chassis end of the arms, and either 1.5 or 2" tubing with 1/4" wall on the front.

Now for the stupid newbie questions. Would a 2.5" Rubicon Express joint be strong enough for the chassis end of the arm, or would I be better off using something like DT Profab's 3" joint with the 3/4" thru-bolt?

Also, is 2" tubing overkill for radius arms or a good choice?

I've searched multiple threads and some guys seem to prefer the Rubicon Express joints becuase of the threaded washer, but I'm not so sure the 9/16" thru-bolt is going to be beefy enough.

Thanks!

DHONDAGOD · 02-05-2005, 06:54 PM

when it refers to the 9/16" bolt you do realize that its a 9/16" SHANK right? not a 9/16" HEAD that you would use a 9/16" wrench to turn... its also the largest r.e. joint they make... should be plenty strong... was told by a r.e. dealer that i didnt need one that big for the rear trailing arms on my fj40 but thats what im useing.. (would rather have too big) if the 9/16" bolt bothers you as being too small remember itll be stronger than anything youll be fastening it too....
hope this helps,

chris

Kory · 02-05-2005, 08:31 PM

Thanks, Chris! Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. And, yes, I do know that 9/16" refers to the shank

My axle swap is going to be my first crack at suspension building... just want to make sure I'm going strong enough. I've done a few lift kits before and I'm tired of the bolt-on crap, and ready to finally be rid of my IFS.
Thanks for the help!
~Kory

02-05-2005, 10:05 AM	#1 (permalink)
Kory Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Member # 39638 Location: Eielson AFB, AK Posts: 14	Flex Joints I'm currently drawing-up a radius arm setup for my Dodge Dakota solid axle swap. I'm leaning toward using some type of poly flex-joint at the chassis end of the arms, and either 1.5 or 2" tubing with 1/4" wall on the front. Now for the stupid newbie questions. Would a 2.5" Rubicon Express joint be strong enough for the chassis end of the arm, or would I be better off using something like DT Profab's 3" joint with the 3/4" thru-bolt? Also, is 2" tubing overkill for radius arms or a good choice? I've searched multiple threads and some guys seem to prefer the Rubicon Express joints becuase of the threaded washer, but I'm not so sure the 9/16" thru-bolt is going to be beefy enough. Thanks!

02-05-2005, 06:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
DHONDAGOD Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Member # 34369 Location: CENTRAL CALIFORNIA Posts: 3,132	when it refers to the 9/16" bolt you do realize that its a 9/16" SHANK right? not a 9/16" HEAD that you would use a 9/16" wrench to turn... its also the largest r.e. joint they make... should be plenty strong... was told by a r.e. dealer that i didnt need one that big for the rear trailing arms on my fj40 but thats what im useing.. (would rather have too big) if the 9/16" bolt bothers you as being too small remember itll be stronger than anything youll be fastening it too.... hope this helps, chris __________________ [COLOR="Magenta"][QUOTE=Earl_of_Burl] Q: What is Hell? A: A place that is without God. Q: How do you find God to avoid Hell? A: Through his son, Jesus Christ. Q: What does this mean to me? A: If you are living your life without accepting Jesus Christ as your personal savior, you are on the road to Hell.[/QUOTE][/COLOR]

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02-05-2005, 08:31 PM	#3 (permalink)
Kory Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Member # 39638 Location: Eielson AFB, AK Posts: 14	Thanks, Chris! Yeah, that's kinda what I was thinking. And, yes, I do know that 9/16" refers to the shank My axle swap is going to be my first crack at suspension building... just want to make sure I'm going strong enough. I've done a few lift kits before and I'm tired of the bolt-on crap, and ready to finally be rid of my IFS. Thanks for the help! ~Kory