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Old 02-09-2005, 03:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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cryo treating

just wondering if anyone has had it done to any axles or tranny parts. how did they hold up and are you happy with it. i want to try it just want to get some opinions first
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Old 02-10-2005, 11:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Do a search under cryo and you will find some good info there.
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I have some input on cryo and hwo good it works.
I work In a custom cabinet shop that can produce cabinets for one off custom jobs or production jobs like track homes and appartments/condos.
In out big shop that is 30,000sq/ft we have several machines that use either cutting blades or saw blades. I hooked up with dean about a year back for some hummer rims. we talked here and there and he told me he was starting his buisness abd said I should try it out on some of our blades. note our blades range from $5-20 shaper blade to our 10ft panel saw and gang rip saw blades that are about $80-160 brand new so anything we could do to get more life out of them would be better for production and be more cost effective.

I sent dean 3 sets of bits and 1 saw blade. need les to saw out of a new shaper bit I got over 2500 more linier feet out of 1 set of blades. with un treated blades we were anywhere from 3700 LF to 4300LF and with the treated new blades we got almost 6700 LF I think.
our saw blades last about 40-50% longer. it was noticeable.

I don't know if this helps but I thought I would throw it out there for you.
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Old 02-13-2005, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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that is awesome to here i was thinking of getting a cold saw wonder how it would hold up being cryo treated. how much did it cost you to get them treated
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Old 02-13-2005, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Tim Florian on the board has had most of his vehicle cryo'd with amazing results!!! He no longer breaks in his driveway
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Old 02-14-2005, 01:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It was $3 dollars a bit and I think $18-$20 for the carbide tipped 18" wood saw he goes by the pound I think but call dean and check it out. I was amazed on how well it worked and I did a little research and even plastic benifits from this as well.
the higher the carbon content of the metal the more effect the process will have. I noticed that we didn't chip teeth or loose teeth as well It help the bonding of the carbide and material it is attached to
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Old 02-14-2005, 05:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Anyone know where I can buy a Hole saw cryo'd for me notcher!!!!
Damn we burn through eemm. Like two chassis's or three roll cage jobs and bingo nother eight bucks..
We even learned not to purchase the saw that has a blade right where the seam is cause that one always fly's off immediately.
Maybe I'll start making some and selling them on me website.
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I would say slow down your speed on the drill running the hole saw. They need to spin pretty slow and the larger the slower. I did a few for a guy that was spinning them to fast and therefor going through holesaws like mad and it din't help. He was not using the correctly so they didn't get any better. So for a 2" holesaw the speed it should be turning is 170 RPM's and a 1.5" should be turning 230 RPM's. These #'s are for cutting mild steel so for cromo tubing it will be 1/2 those speeds.
If you want to cryo some they are $4ea up to 2" and if you have one that is small enough to fit inside the other it is $2. Example. A 1 1/2 will fit inside the 2" so the total would be $6 for both. I have a good cryo example of what it can do for carbide tiped saw blades. I have two 7.25" 48 tooth saw blades for cutting steel. One I cryoed and one I didn't. I was cutting some bumpstop holders the are .120 DOM with some .625x.120 wall tubes welded to it for the bolts to run through to clamp them onto the bumpstop. I was able to cut 28 with the cryoed blade and only 8 with the uncryoed blade. Same guy cutting, same table saw, and same matierial. I am waiting for the blades to come back from getting sharpened to run them again but this time the one that only cut 8 has now been cryoed. I want to see if there is a flaw with that blade or if it now will cut 28 like the other.
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:05 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Childsplay
Tim Florian on the board has had most of his vehicle cryo'd with amazing results!!! He no longer breaks in his driveway
Yeah it works--I was breaking a toyota output shaft every couple trips. Till I sent one to Dean for Cryo. I then was able to fully get it 4 trips in a row and no breakage . I also had alot of problems tearing up Ring and Pinions till I had them cryo treated. If your hard on your shyt like I am and you like the skinny pedal. Then this is the only way to go, and Dean is the man to go to.
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:01 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66CJdean
I would say slow down your speed on the drill running the hole saw. They need to spin pretty slow and the larger the slower. I did a few for a guy that was spinning them to fast and therefor going through holesaws like mad and it din't help. He was not using the correctly so they didn't get any better. So for a 2" holesaw the speed it should be turning is 170 RPM's and a 1.5" should be turning 230 RPM's. These #'s are for cutting mild steel so for cromo tubing it will be 1/2 those speeds.
If you want to cryo some they are $4ea up to 2" and if you have one that is small enough to fit inside the other it is $2. Example. A 1 1/2 will fit inside the 2" so the total would be $6 for both. I have a good cryo example of what it can do for carbide tiped saw blades. I have two 7.25" 48 tooth saw blades for cutting steel. One I cryoed and one I didn't. I was cutting some bumpstop holders the are .120 DOM with some .625x.120 wall tubes welded to it for the bolts to run through to clamp them onto the bumpstop. I was able to cut 28 with the cryoed blade and only 8 with the uncryoed blade. Same guy cutting, same table saw, and same matierial. I am waiting for the blades to come back from getting sharpened to run them again but this time the one that only cut 8 has now been cryoed. I want to see if there is a flaw with that blade or if it now will cut 28 like the other.

So basically if I understand that correctly the hand drills on our notchers are always going to ruin bit's unless we mount it on one of our drill presses...
The one with the dewalt drill we have setup is 840minimum rpm.
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Old 02-15-2005, 06:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That is what I am saying. Not that it wont cut some holes but you won't get the life out of it like you would if it were turning slower.
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Old 02-15-2005, 06:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Florian
Yeah it works--I was breaking a toyota output shaft every couple trips. Till I sent one to Dean for Cryo. I then was able to fully get it 4 trips in a row and no breakage . I also had alot of problems tearing up Ring and Pinions till I had them cryo treated. If your hard on your shyt like I am and you like the skinny pedal. Then this is the only way to go, and Dean is the man to go to.
I still cant get over that output only being 1" dia. I am glad it is working out.

Dean
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:16 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks Dean,
Once I get another notcher I'll set it up on one of our drill presses and get some hole saws to you..
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:54 PM   #14 (permalink)
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hey guys thats for all the info diffinetly thinkof doing this in the future to some axles and ring and pinions o yeah i do like the skinny pedal on the right too
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