Hey all, I have a 94 mazda b4000 with manual hubs and puch button 4wd...I locked it in low...and now it will not come out...I have used it many times with now probs...and it messes up on me 30 miles from home...long trip doin 25mph....lights are off ...(they come on when truck is started but go off)....when i press the low button..it blinks, clicks and locks back in low....is this a switch problem or transfer case...how can i fix this ..thanks!!
While I dont know about mazdas, it does sound like a switch issue (solinoid?). Your hubs are set back to free correct? Can you press the button then go under the truck and unplug the harness. Try in reverse and see if it unlocks due to binding.
Thanks Guys...5spd tried that..and 1bille1 my battery is fine...truck runs fine...everything else is fine....I think it may be the switch due to the fact that when I took it out...the green light was still lit up , but no lights work on the switch...any other ways to get this thing out of 4WD low??....thanks!
I have an explorer as my company vehicle and had the same problem once. First off, the solenoid that engages the Borg Warner t-case is a common problem spot. They get gunked up and so on. If you search on a ranger forum you should find out about it. I'd just replace it now as a starting point.
In my case, the solenoid was acting up and not engaging and disengaging properly and it caused the pin on the shifter fork to wallow out th case. We had to replace half the transfercase, wasn't cheap....
It's common for the shifter motors to get dirty and stick. If you remove the motor you can shift the transfer case into 2 high with a pair of pliers. Before you go throwing parts at it, pull the shifter motor apart and clean it out.
If you cruise junkyards and didn't know this already, the B4000 is just a Ranger 4.0 with Mazda badging, and also shares parts with 91-94 Explorer 4.0's.
I have cleaned/rebuilt the shifter motor on my Xploder. Besure that your lubricate the case bolts on the gearhead (shifter motor) befor you pull it apart. they like to snap off flush to the case. there is a rotor plate inside with brushes, clean the carbon buildup off with an eraser or something like that, grease the gears and such while in there and reassemble. you will have to cut one wire to remove the motor completely, a brown one if I remember. it is the interlock wire I think. be sure to reconect it well (solder it).
Mine has worked for two years now, (though I'm sure it will break again now that I said that ) saved myself $140 for an hours work
I had the same thing with my ZR2 DD. Turned out to be the neutral safety switch. Mines an auto, but the switch plug was a little bit loose, the computer won't allow the T-case to shift out of low without a signal from the switch. Fixed me up, hope it helps you.
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