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Old 09-13-2005, 12:30 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Narrowing 79 F250 hp d44

I'm curious on how easy it is to narrow this axle. Don't have one in my possession so Im not sure about what is cast into the housing/tubes.

From the info Ive been gathering, one advantage to this hp d44 over the ton version is that it doesnt have the case radius arm mounts on the tubes (front leafs on ton). Other advantages over the ton are 8x6.5 lug pattern and larger hubs (per mr. Ns article). From what I have gathered, the axle should be about 68 WMS to WMS. This is wider than I want, but seems like a better choice than the headaches of the F150s hp d44. I'm thinking between 63-65" would be more ideal, depending on what length of a "stock" 44 shaft that would put me in the range.

My plans are to swap out my ZJs axles while doing a long arm lift. Most likely 35-37 mud tires will be run on about 7 of lift.

Following much of the advice of people on this and other forums, Im trying to choose my front axle first then choose a rear to match (a shaved f250 d60 would work well in my setup, even though it would need to be narrowed also). Im open to other options/opinions as well.
TIA, MTNZJ

Last edited by mtnzj; 09-13-2005 at 12:33 AM. Reason: cluttered
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Old 09-13-2005, 05:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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60's come in all sorts of widths so changing the width on a rear 60 might not be an issue depending on what you make the front. "N's" articles are great info

I started taking the brackets off of a 79 f250 hp44 last night. Sawzall and a grinder work great. I've never shortened an axle but what the hell might as well give it a shot. Going underneath a 98 TJ unless I really screw it up.

My biggest concerns so far are steering, clearing the cast in flat mount on the drivers side of the housing and making sure I get the inner "c" back on at the right angle.

All new to me short of what I've read on Pirates for the last 7 years or so.
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Old 09-13-2005, 07:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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im doing the same axle swap right now..... here are the pics of how my zj sits on un altered f250 axles... http://community.webshots.com/album/351094935ngVlwI/1

im not done yet but check out my build at... http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2341

youll find all my info there, should be finished with the build this weekend
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnzj
From what I have gathered, the axle should be about 68 WMS to WMS. This is wider than I want, but seems like a better choice than the headaches of the F150s hp d44.
Not sure what head aches you're talking about. I got a 78 F150 HP D44 on the bench at my place now. The tubes are 1/2 inch thick and the radius arm mounts are welded on rather than cast. They were very easy to remove, unlike the 79 D44 version that are cast into the tubes. The inner C's came off with a BFH and a grinder. I'm cutting 3.11 inches off the driver side and 1.79 inches off the passenger side and using early 80's wagoneer shafts.

You can pretty much use anything on the outers to give you any bolt pattern you like. I think Billavista has posted some tech on D44 outers that might be usefull.

cheers,
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Old 09-13-2005, 09:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Out of curiosity how do you cut off exactly 3.11 inches and 1.79 inches from the short and long sides? I'm guessing you are putting your axle under a TJ based on your screen name.

Not trying to be an ass here just looking at a similar swap. Any particular reason you arn't just taking the roughly 5" off of the long side and leaving the short side stock? I have a f250 housing which brings up some space issues on the short side but research I've done says it should work.
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Old 09-14-2005, 04:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microtus
Out of curiosity how do you cut off exactly 3.11 inches and 1.79 inches from the short and long sides? I'm guessing you are putting your axle under a TJ based on your screen name.

Not trying to be an ass here just looking at a similar swap. Any particular reason you arn't just taking the roughly 5" off of the long side and leaving the short side stock? I have a f250 housing which brings up some space issues on the short side but research I've done says it should work.
Ok...lets be honest....it might not be 3.11 or 1.79 but it will be very close. If you just take roughly 5 inches off one side you end up having to get a custom shaft made for the passenger side. Waggy shafts are 3.11 and 1.79 inches shorter than the F150 shafts. Keep everything 'off the shelf' and it makes it easier to replace broken shafts later on down the road.
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Old 09-14-2005, 07:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnzj
I'm curious on how easy it is to narrow this axle. Don't have one in my possession so Im not sure about what is cast into the housing/tubes.

From the info Ive been gathering, one advantage to this hp d44 over the ton version is that it doesnt have the case radius arm mounts on the tubes (front leafs on ton). Other advantages over the ton are 8x6.5 lug pattern and larger hubs (per mr. Ns article). From what I have gathered, the axle should be about 68 WMS to WMS. This is wider than I want, but seems like a better choice than the headaches of the F150s hp d44. I'm thinking between 63-65" would be more ideal, depending on what length of a "stock" 44 shaft that would put me in the range.

My plans are to swap out my ZJs axles while doing a long arm lift. Most likely 35-37 mud tires will be run on about 7 of lift.

Following much of the advice of people on this and other forums, Im trying to choose my front axle first then choose a rear to match (a shaved f250 d60 would work well in my setup, even though it would need to be narrowed also). Im open to other options/opinions as well.
TIA, MTNZJ
one potential "problem" with the f-250 axle is the cast housing on the drivers side is much larger/longer. it is this way because of the leaf spring perch. it doesn't leave much room for your coil bucket bracket after you shorten it. it can be dealt with just takes more work.
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Old 09-14-2005, 08:36 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cisco
one potential "problem" with the f-250 axle is the cast housing on the drivers side is much larger/longer. it is this way because of the leaf spring perch. it doesn't leave much room for your coil bucket bracket after you shorten it. it can be dealt with just takes more work.
Hopefully I wont need to narrow the short(drivers) side much, if at all. Like I said in the first post, I'll probably only be taking around 3-4" off and if possible I'd like to do it on the long side (shorter stub shaft).

In regards to the cast leaf perch off the houseing, Kraqa (has buggy ZJ) had a pretty good way to get around it. I don't think I would go control arms outside of coils, but it gives ideas of how to make it work




^did not ask for permission to post here, Kraqa, bitch slap me if you want them removed
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Old 09-16-2005, 09:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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One other width combination that would be just slightly narrower would be one I'm considering for use on my wife's Tacoma with a F250 axle would be to narrow the long side to a Early Bronco length pass side axle. I can't remember specifically how much it narrows it, but it leaves the final width about 61" with 6 lug hubs or 63" with the 8 lug hubs. You could always use the axleshaft lengths on warn's website to determine how much it was shorter.

David
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