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Old 11-25-2005, 05:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
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92 Toyota clutch Questions

Hello, new here but I need some info. Help is greatly appreciated!

My truck: 1992 toyota excab v64x4

The Problem: A few years and 10's of thousands of miles ago my clutch started slipping and I thought It was toast(120,000 miles maybe?). Then, magically it stopped slipping and has been fine ever since. My truck now has 160,000 and the clutch is slipping again, in every gear. It's still drivable, but if I give it a heavy foot it starts slipping. I vaguely remember it slipping maybe just once a few months ago also, but then it was fine again.
So, is the clutch worn out already?(I've heard these clutches can last 300,000). Seems wierd to be intermittent. Perhaps a seal has blown coating the clutch with engine oil?

The fix?: I've seen kits for about 150 bucks on the net. Any recommendations? Also, how hard would a replacement be, I am pretty inclined, replaced a clutch on a VW GTI many years ago, but it would be in my driveway. Special tools needed? Any tips would make my day.

I don't plan on keeping the truck much longer, in the market for a 99+ tacoma, but I'd like to give her 175,000 at least. Thanks guys, cool site!
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Old 11-25-2005, 07:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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mine was doing the same thing (a ford tho) but mine only slipped in 4th when entering the interstate (really hammering on it) turnd out the main seal was blown and a little oil was making by the slywheel and coating the clutch, i didnt find this out till i finally replaced it a few weeks ago, it had 350,000 miles on it and still had meat on it but i burnt it to hell when i sunk the truck in 5 feet of water. so replace the clutch, be sure to get the fly wheel cut, $150 sounds bout right for a clutch, i paid about $125 for clutch disk, presure plate, pilot bushing, trowout bearing. while your in there check the main seal, if it looks like theres oil coming outof it then you found the problem, if not then someone didnt know how to drive a stick .

oh yeah, i never worked on a toyota but on my ford i have the 4 peice oil pan gasket and the back side of it started to leak, if yours is the same that might be it aswell
89 Ranger, 2.9, 6" lift, 35" baja claws
92 Silverado, 6.2L, GM-3 Turbo at 10PSI
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Old 11-26-2005, 11:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Myabe I am just hard on clutches but a 160,000 sounds pretty good to me. You might be able to adjust it and make it stop slipping. My old Rodeo had the clutch slip every once in a while. I adjusted it and it was fine, sold it with 177,000 miles on it. You adjust it under the dash, on a hydrolic clutch you adjust the pedal travel.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The clutch has stopped slipping again. I love owning a truck that never breaks, and when it does, it fixes itself. I can't make the clutch slip, even floored in 4th it holds.

If anybody has more ideas on this problem, I'd still love to hear it though. And, yes I do know how to drive astick, I knew somebody would make a comment like Netbsd!! very haha funny.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 11-27-2005, 05:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Two other things to keep an eye on. First, clutch flex lines on 3.0 trucks like to crap out regularly. They like to leak on the bottom of the line. This is located on the passenger side of the truck, and is a rubber line. Also check out the actual clutch pedal bracketry. I've seen more than my fare share of those little pukes crack. They like to crack on the far left upper corner of the bracket, but have seen other places as well. As far as a clutch lasting 300K, definitely possible, but far from likely. If you've got 160K+, you've done pretty damn good. This is kind of a half assed check, but look at the clutch slave cylinder on the transmission where the boot is, if the boot is pretty compressed as compared to a known good one, chances are the clutch disk is in fact worn. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Old 11-28-2005, 10:27 AM   #6 (permalink)
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To check this, wait till it starts slipping, pull over and pop the bleeder on the slave, it should run a little, but if it spurts look real close at the master and the adjustment and linkages under the dash. If it doesn't spurt, make sure that the slave isn't putting pressure on the fork, if not and still slipping, tear it down, something will need to be replaced. I've experienced all the failures that Shelby listed, but they all lead to not being able to disengage the clutch (lots of fun to find this out when the light turns green). Let us know what happens.
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