On mine I had to pull the axle shafts out, then remove a large nut, then the drum and wheel bearings all came off. Sounds worse than it is. Get some gear oil, you'll loose a little bit. I got a new seal for the axle shaft too, aluminum thing, but several of my friends have reused their old ones.
I'm a newb too, so don't take my word as gospel... but I figured I'd answer in case no one else does.
I have the shafts out, and was told ot pull a snap ring out, and then the remove a "nut" but obviously its not a standard nut? Since I see nothing of the sort? Thanks for the help Jay.
The nut takes a special socket with 6? prongs on the end that fit into holes in the nut. Depending on the version of the axle that you have, there can either be a key holding the single nut in place, or there will be one nut, followed by a lock ring and then a second nut. If you go to that parts store, they can tell you waht socket will work on a 14 bolt. The other procedures above are correct.
Thanks, I have looked over that thing a million times, but I will look over again.
The special ed's at napa sold me a 1/2 ton "key" that didnt fit, when I brought it back, I called a mechanic, and I got even worse info, but thanks for the good info, I will go back tommorow.
Geez, I think I used a flat head screwdriver and a deadblow to loosen the nut. Mine had a nut and a washer.. The washer was bent into the nut, preventing the nut from turning.. So I used needlenose to un-bend the washer and then the screwdriver and deadblow to loosen the nut. My truck was in good shape so there was not rust and the nut came right off.
I got my info from a 20 year old Chilton's manual.
Geez, I think I used a flat head screwdriver and a deadblow to loosen the nut. Mine had a nut and a washer.. The washer was bent into the nut, preventing the nut from turning.. So I used needlenose to un-bend the washer and then the screwdriver and deadblow to loosen the nut. My truck was in good shape so there was not rust and the nut came right off.
I got my info from a 20 year old Chilton's manual.
I got one off, the other is rusted solid, I will get a hammer and a block of wood to pound the studs, I wont be re-using it, so I dont care if the threads get fubared.
Thanks again
I got one off, the other is rusted solid, I will get a hammer and a block of wood to pound the studs, I wont be re-using it, so I dont care if the threads get fubared.
Thanks again
Unless your block of wood is made of oak or cherry, your block of wood isn't going to last very long, maybe one stud. If you can get a brass drift pin... looks like a 3/4" diameter shaft made of brass, use that. I used an old 3/8" mini-breaker bar that I didn't care about.
If your drums are being held by the shoes, there is a large nut on the backing plate above the wheel cylinder. With that nut removed, and with the nuts/spacers/lock/outerbearing removed from inside the hub you can just slide everything away from the backing plate.
I forgot to mention removing the wheel cyl. bolts as well. If you're converting to discs, you can torch, grind, chisel them off
Just hammer the drums on the face to knock them loose then loosen the brake shoes from the rear with a flat screwdriver. (in the slot on bottom of backing plate)
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