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How do you get the drums off of a 14FF bolt?

1K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  badk5 
#1 ·
hi
im a newb
i cant search
please help, thanks

Mike
 
#2 ·
On mine I had to pull the axle shafts out, then remove a large nut, then the drum and wheel bearings all came off. Sounds worse than it is. Get some gear oil, you'll loose a little bit. I got a new seal for the axle shaft too, aluminum thing, but several of my friends have reused their old ones.

I'm a newb too, so don't take my word as gospel... but I figured I'd answer in case no one else does.

-Jay
 
#4 ·
The nut takes a special socket with 6? prongs on the end that fit into holes in the nut. Depending on the version of the axle that you have, there can either be a key holding the single nut in place, or there will be one nut, followed by a lock ring and then a second nut. If you go to that parts store, they can tell you waht socket will work on a 14 bolt. The other procedures above are correct.

Ryan
 
#6 ·
Flashover Mfg said:
The 14 bolt Bible has a lot of information and some pics that may be useful to you.

Thanks, I have looked over that thing a million times, but I will look over again.

The special ed's at napa sold me a 1/2 ton "key" that didnt fit, when I brought it back, I called a mechanic, and I got even worse info, but thanks for the good info, I will go back tommorow.
 
#8 ·
Geez, I think I used a flat head screwdriver and a deadblow to loosen the nut. Mine had a nut and a washer.. The washer was bent into the nut, preventing the nut from turning.. So I used needlenose to un-bend the washer and then the screwdriver and deadblow to loosen the nut. My truck was in good shape so there was not rust and the nut came right off.

I got my info from a 20 year old Chilton's manual.

-Jay
 
#9 ·
BigJay said:
Geez, I think I used a flat head screwdriver and a deadblow to loosen the nut. Mine had a nut and a washer.. The washer was bent into the nut, preventing the nut from turning.. So I used needlenose to un-bend the washer and then the screwdriver and deadblow to loosen the nut. My truck was in good shape so there was not rust and the nut came right off.

I got my info from a 20 year old Chilton's manual.

-Jay

That is what I needed to know, back to the basement and thanks again...
 
#10 ·
they can have either the 4 or 6 prong and some have the key way and some have double nut system.

it is the same system and process for removing a front rotor.

remove axle shaft,
spindle nut,
pull off and pound studs in with a SOFT pin or peice of woold, anything that wont smash the threads.

the 1/2t is a 2.25", you want a 2.5" 4/6prong. you can even get one that is double ended, 4x6
 
#11 ·
trkklr77 said:
they can have either the 4 or 6 prong and some have the key way and some have double nut system.

it is the same system and process for removing a front rotor.

remove axle shaft,
spindle nut,
pull off and pound studs in with a SOFT pin or peice of woold, anything that wont smash the threads.

the 1/2t is a 2.25", you want a 2.5" 4/6prong. you can even get one that is double ended, 4x6
I got one off, the other is rusted solid, I will get a hammer and a block of wood to pound the studs, I wont be re-using it, so I dont care if the threads get fubared.
Thanks again
 
#12 ·
BMFmike said:
I got one off, the other is rusted solid, I will get a hammer and a block of wood to pound the studs, I wont be re-using it, so I dont care if the threads get fubared.
Thanks again
Unless your block of wood is made of oak or cherry, your block of wood isn't going to last very long, maybe one stud. If you can get a brass drift pin... looks like a 3/4" diameter shaft made of brass, use that. I used an old 3/8" mini-breaker bar that I didn't care about.

Don't worry about hurting it... you won't!
 
#13 ·
are you trying to remove the drums?

are you going to discs?

If yes,take a sledge hammer to the drums and then the studs will pretty much fall out.
That's what I did
 
#15 · (Edited)
If your drums are being held by the shoes, there is a large nut on the backing plate above the wheel cylinder. With that nut removed, and with the nuts/spacers/lock/outerbearing removed from inside the hub you can just slide everything away from the backing plate.

I forgot to mention removing the wheel cyl. bolts as well. If you're converting to discs, you can torch, grind, chisel them off
 
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