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Old 02-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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93 22re won't idle, DD-need help!

Got a 93 yota, 22re, stock everything. For the last few weeks its been idleing wierd. The idle would lope. I was told it was the idle air control valve or something like that and would cost between $200 and $300 to replace!!! Was also told it wouldn't hurt nothing to run it like that. So i did, so far. Never died, just was a little embarassing at stoplights, anywho,

Halfway to work this morning it wouldn't idle right, almost dying and sputtering... Got a full tank, fully charged battery, oil full... I got it home and changed the plugs, wires, dist. cap & rotor, (even the air filter just for shits and giggles!) I disconnected the battery for 1/2 hour to "reset the computer" as was reccomended by someone. no luck.

The truck will stay running if I got it in gear and on the throttle, of course, but if I push the clutch in at a stop light it will now die. Kind of a problem if I push the clutch in during a slow turn! No power steering means I run into snowbanks! 93 toyota pickup 5 speed 4x4 132K miles, not beaten. Please help? I did put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into the tank, but I doubt it does anything enough to cause this, right?
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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instead of replacing the IAC why not remove it and try cleaning it out?

this is a common problem on Fords and mostly because it builds up carbon inside and doesnt allow the valve to open and close properly...try taking it off and spraying some brake parts cleaner or cabr cleaner inside it to clean it out real good,put it back on and see what happens

this shows the price for it at my work...other parts stores should be close in price as well

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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check to make sure that your plastic/rubber part of the intake doesnt have any cracks in it, if there is an air leak between the throttle body and AFM it wont idle. it usually cracks on the underside of the rubber boot just before the throttle body
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Old 02-27-2008, 03:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMopar View Post
instead of replacing the IAC why not remove it and try cleaning it out?

this is a common problem on Fords and mostly because it builds up carbon inside and doesnt allow the valve to open and close properly...try taking it off and spraying some brake parts cleaner or cabr cleaner inside it to clean it out real good,put it back on and see what happens

this shows the price for it at my work...other parts stores should be close in price as well

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0
thanks, can anyone tell me where the IAC is? I know it's a DAN question, but I don't know imports or newer (post-70's) motors.
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I have owned 4 EFI toyota's with and have NEVER had to mess with an IAC, but what do i know...
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Old 02-27-2008, 04:39 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have owned 4 EFI toyota's with and have NEVER had to mess with an IAC, but what do i know...


sorry, didn't mean to offend. Just trying one option at a time. I'm grateful for the help and apoligize to you. I'll even drink a light beer to prove my regret!

BTW where and what is the AFM?

Last edited by bluecrew; 02-27-2008 at 04:40 AM.
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Old 02-27-2008, 03:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well, I pulled the throttle body off, cleaned it all up and couldn't get the IAC valve off (stripped screw head...) so I sprayed it full of carb cleaner and let it soak for a few hours. Threw it all back together with the TPS still disconnected and it idles about 2,500 to 3,000 rpms. Plug it back in, and it stumbles and dies again. I didn't see any problems with the gasket between the throttle body and (?)intake(?) all vacuum lines are good and none seem old enough to leak or crack, checked and double checked... any ideas as to what to try next?

And what is the AFM?
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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anybody? please?
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bluecrew View Post
sorry, didn't mean to offend. Just trying one option at a time. I'm grateful for the help and apoligize to you. I'll even drink a light beer to prove my regret!

BTW where and what is the AFM?
LOL, none taken, the AFM is the sensor that is bolted to the top of the air filter housing, it uses a vien to guage how much air is being pulled into the engine, you could try stuffing somthing in it to keep it open and see if the engine still runs if it does LOOK FOR CRACKS IN THE RUBBER/PLASTIC INTAKE if that is good than test the AFM there is a feild service manual that can be downloaded look in the FAQ for the link.
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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well, I shoved a carpenter's pencil in there to wedge it open and I got it to stay running. I runs rough and sounds like a severly cold motor trying to run. It's ain't all that cold out, around 20*. Kinda like it's missing. I give it some gas, and it runs better. I'd drive it like that, but I'm worried I might damage the engine somehow. Any ideas?
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:49 AM   #11 (permalink)
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good tips. thanks. so I started after the EGR. look what I found.



Is there supposed to ba a gasket in there. I don't see the bolts anywhere. I put some bolts in and it ran fine!!!!! Idled around 1,500rpm's. Thought it was just cold. Then I took it for a spin around the block. When I got back, the idle was loping again. Still idles high. But it stays running. Could the lack of a gasket cause this? Also, I found this here too.



Is this busted rubber boot cause any of these problems?
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Old 03-05-2008, 04:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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replaced the gasket, blew out the little filter in the EGR valve. I removed the EGR competely, and nothing did anything to help/change. Idles around 1200-1500 rpm's and only lopes when I push in the brake. Any ideas?
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