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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 52630
Posts: 2
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to much voltage to lights?
My buddy has a 72 Scout II and when his taillights are on they will get hot enough to melt the bulb and light cover, and the problem gets worse when the truck is running. Has anyone had this problem or know how to fix it?
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Member # 29177
Location: New Albany, IN
Posts: 1,829
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Quote:
Check the clearance between the taillight lens and the housing. Maybe they are too close to each other. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Pirate4x4 Addict!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Member # 6704
Location: Roosterville, Missouri
Posts: 6,986
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Is he using those extra bright halogen bulbs? They produce more heat than a standard bulb.
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It's IHeavy aka TORC KC0UIC -.- -.-. ----- ..- .. -.-. Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Member # 52630
Posts: 2
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He is using regular bulbs #1157 in rear, and he has not checked the voltage to them, but if it is to high what does he need to do to fix the problem? Also, what could cause the voltage to be high? What should the voltage be 12 volts?
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#6 (permalink) |
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AF6 OD
Join Date: Apr 2005
Member # 46467
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,673
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Measure the battery, should be 12-14 volts, most Scout would be lucky to even get 11 volts at the tails lights. I would suspect the housing has a short to ground some how. (P.O. mods, trailer wiring,etc) Turn it on and feel where the heat is starting to come from and look close. The glass bulb gets hot, but the base should not get that hot.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Member # 97584
Posts: 10
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Resistance causes heat, not necessarily over-voltage (unless you're shooting well above 12v). I'd check the ground, check the wiring for breaks or kinks or corrosion, check the socket for the same thing.
You should be getting anywhere from 11-14v would be in the "ok" range. If you're getting more than that, your alternator and/or voltage regulator have problems. I would bet almost anything that you're shorting to ground somewhere near the socket, though. Last edited by Crawdad; 05-30-2008 at 09:43 AM. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Bad Doctor
Join Date: Feb 2007
Member # 86878
Location: South of Heaven
Posts: 2,475
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Quote:
This is most likely your problem. Im an ASE Master Tech and 90 percent of elecrtical problems I repair are caused by increased resistance. Poor connections, etc.
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-Vinny -from Elizabeth Nobody cares about your rigs specs... "Me too" short Crew build /forum/chevy/994394-odins-me-too-short-crew-build.html |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Member # 81644
Location: Western AZ
Posts: 44
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While the high resistance/too close lens ideas are likely spot on, if all the lights seem freakishly bright, then I'd not overlook the idea that the voltage reg is bad. Check voltage at the batt with motor running. Technically, if you are seeing > 14.5v or so (in actuality, it would likely be >16v with a bad VR) then you should replace the voltage reg, or the whole alt if it's of the internal/integrated type.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Member # 18152
Location: Reno, Nevada USA..ish
Posts: 1,665
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If you want to know how much voltage/amps you should be getting to ANY component you need to know WTF that component is rated for. Really its that simple.
You have the part number so what does it say? Now what are you getting? does it match?
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