Link Construction for the cheap ass...

[GreatWhiteXJ]

THIS IS ABSOLUTLEY NOT FOR MY RIG!


Got a friend with some odd materials for me to build him some things and Im not sure Im saying yes to building them yet. He wants a 3-link with panhard, and some steering.

So for lowers on the 3 link he's got 2" SOLID roundbar. Which Im not doubting should be plenty ok. The upper link, trac arm and steering materials though I question.

He has 1.5 Schd 40 Pipe and1" solid roundbar. And wanting to sleeve the 1.5" with the solid roundbar. ALL ends would be heims.

So would 1.5" Schd 40 pipe, sleeved internally with 1" solid round bar be suitable for the upper, steering, and a trac arm?

This will go on an XJ with a 44/9 combo and 37's. He wheels reasonably hard.

[Snowbird13]

The 2 inch lower would work, but would be heavy as fuck.

As far as the upper, pipe is measured by ID. So 1.5 inch schedule 40 pipe has 1.5 inch ID. Putting a 1 inch solid rod in there is going to have a quarter inch gap all around. Also, I'm guessing that you will have a welded seam inside the pipe.

If your friend actually has 1 inch pipe it may work, but he is going to have to do some machine work to make it happen.

It would be easier to just do it right.

[Mauler]

I agree with Snowbird. You can't sleeve the pipe and the 1" solid. Yes you can use the 2" solid for lowers (although mega heavy). DO NOT use the 1" solid for anything you mentioned as it will bend for sure.

I think that the pipe should be OK for the upper and the track bar. However, I would recommend getting something a little heavier. Schedule 80, or even 2x2x0.25 square tubing would be better and will both be cheap. If he can afford the rig you listed, and heims, he can afford to buy 8ft of material for this upper link and steering. Good luck.

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Whoops listed that wrong.....it's 1" pipe. So the roundbar fits damn near perfect inside it. Thus resulting in basically a 1.5" solid bar.

However, both of you have the same thoughts I do. Yea, the 2" is heavy as balls, but should be ok. The other...... mehhhh detouring me a lot. I've told him to quit fuckin around and go get me some 1.5" .250 wall but it doesnt seem to be soaking in.

In think for liability reasons, I may tell him to either get proper materials for me, or I'll print him out the numbers and he can find some one else.

Unless you guys know of something else cheap and effective that will house a 1" bung and result in 1.5" OD.

I can only think pipe and pipe makes me cringe. I see no way that 1" pipe sleeved with more pipe could end well.

[Booger Weldz]

the 1.5'' shed 40 will be up to the task of the upper link and panhard without the solid rod shoved in it, however the 2'' solid is rediculous for the lower links. go get some pieces of 2'' .188 square instead. your suggestion of 1.5'' .250 tubing isnt sufficient for a lower link on a rockcrawler. well maybe if its heat treated chromoly on a lightweight buggy...

[GreatWhiteXJ]

I wasn't implying he use 1.5" .250 wall for the lowers. Although heavy as shit, the 2" should be ok. I was saying 1.5" .250 wall for everything else.

I still dont like using pipe.... but any more suggestions?

[mudtoy67]

Originally Posted by Snowbird13

The 2 inch lower would work, but would be heavy as fuck.

As far as the upper, pipe is measured by ID. So 1.5 inch schedule 40 pipe has 1.5 inch ID. Putting a 1 inch solid rod in there is going to have a quarter inch gap all around. Also, I'm guessing that you will have a welded seam inside the pipe.

If your friend actually has 1 inch pipe it may work, but he is going to have to do some machine work to make it happen.

It would be easier to just do it right.

FWIW...this is not entirely correct. You are right that pipe (up to 14" diameter) is not measured by the actual OD. 1.5" is the "nominal ID" of the pipe. The pipe is still measured by the OD, which in the case of 1.5" pipe is 1.90". The actual ID is then determined by the schedule (wall thickness), which for 1.5" nominal pipe can be between 1.682" for Sch 10 to 1.100" for Sch XXS.

http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/pipe.htm

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Toy- Unless you wana contribute to answering my questions........... get the fuck out. I dont give a shit about 14" diameter pipe specs.



AND Again....mistake in the first post. This would be 1" pipe NOT 1.5"

[mudtoy67]

Just trying to clarify.

This is the newbie section...misinformation is still misinformation whether it answers your original question or not.

[mudtoy67]

You would be better off starting with larger diameter material. Just running some numbers here even 1.5" Sch 40 (.145 wall) would be 1.5 times stronger than sleeving that 1" stuff with solid bar.

[Urban Wheeler]

IMHO the solid bar lowers would suck. Solid will bend easier than tube.

[Booger Weldz]

Originally Posted by Urban Wheeler

IMHO the solid bar lowers would suck. Solid will bend easier than tube.

wrong...given the same OD the solid is far superior, however rediculously heavy

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Well, given the fact that I question the materials to begin with, and now with everyones feedback....I have told the guy to either buy the right stuff or find someone else.

He has not replied, but I told him 2" .250 for the lowers and 1.5" .188 wall for the rest MINIMUM, but preferably 1.5" .250. The upper and panhard likely dont need that material....but knowing his driving habbits, the steering definatly does.

Thanks for your opinions.

[45acp]

Dumb question- How would you use the sch.40 to sleeve over the solid bar, considering the weld standup inside the pipe?

Even if it did fit, wouldnt it be more of an "oval" fit?

[GreatWhiteXJ]

1" pipe has an ID of 1.05 according to my research. The round bar is a true 1" OD. I slides right in and is quite tight.

But doesnt matter, cause Im not doing this build or using those materials.

[guidolyons]

FWIW,
If you/your buddy are trying to save a few bucks, 2" .250 wall square tubing has been used quite successfully for links. The Clayton lift kits use square tubing. Clayton sells them:

These are our square tube inserts. We offer them for 2x2 1/4 square tubing, 1.5x1.5, 1/8 square tubing, and 1.5, .120 wall DOM tubing. They are all CNC machined for a press fit into the desired tube. We press them in with a hydraulic ram, however a 5 lb sledge hammer will knock them in. Once you press them in, check to make sure they are square, then fully weld them. All nuts are machined from grade 8 Hi-nuts.

STI-125x12 - 1 1/4", 12 pitch machined for 2x2, 1/4 wall square tubing
STI-100x14 - 1", 14 pitch machined for 1 1/2x 1 1/2, 1/8 wall square tubing
RTI-100x14 - 1", 14 pitch machined for 1 1/2 DOM tubing
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...5924bd84f8e3b5

[45acp]

Originally Posted by GreatWhiteXJ

1" pipe has an ID of 1.05 according to my research. The round bar is a true 1" OD. I slides right in and is quite tight.

But doesnt matter, cause Im not doing this build or using those materials.

I know that it will work out on the ID/OD, but what about the weld standing up running the full length of the inside of the pipe? Its alot taller than .05".

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Originally Posted by guidolyons

FWIW,
If you/your buddy are trying to save a few bucks, 2" .250 wall square tubing has been used quite successfully for links. The Clayton lift kits use square tubing. Clayton sells them:

These are our square tube inserts. We offer them for 2x2 1/4 square tubing, 1.5x1.5, 1/8 square tubing, and 1.5, .120 wall DOM tubing. They are all CNC machined for a press fit into the desired tube. We press them in with a hydraulic ram, however a 5 lb sledge hammer will knock them in. Once you press them in, check to make sure they are square, then fully weld them. All nuts are machined from grade 8 Hi-nuts.

STI-125x12 - 1 1/4", 12 pitch machined for 2x2, 1/4 wall square tubing
STI-100x14 - 1", 14 pitch machined for 1 1/2x 1 1/2, 1/8 wall square tubing
RTI-100x14 - 1", 14 pitch machined for 1 1/2 DOM tubing
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...5924bd84f8e3b5

NO square. Too ghetto. Dont care how it holds up, it looks far to booty fab to ever come from my garage.

I'll suggest it to him, but I wont build it.

[flatlander757]

Originally Posted by GreatWhiteXJ

NO square. Too ghetto. Dont care how it holds up, it looks far to booty fab to ever come from my garage.

I'll suggest it to him, but I wont build it.

FWIW I'd have no problem with square tube myself, one major plus is you can tighten the living piss out of your jam nuts since there's a big ass flat surface to grip onto.

Coming from a guy with 2.25" 0.375" wall round lowers.

[GreatWhiteXJ]

Don't care. Square tube is for roof racks.

Dont care how strong, dont care how cheap, dont care how tight you can get anything...flat dont care. Sqaure links will never be fabbed by me or in my garage.