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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-25-2013 09:13 AM
SChandler x2 for replacing the pictures. I was rereading the thread recently to see how you did the suspension work and noticed all of the pictures were gone.
10-24-2013 11:33 PM
ElkyRacer
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
Okay so I started adding the pics. Give me some time and I will have them all back up.
I saw that today. I really do appreciate it!
10-24-2013 12:04 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com Okay so I started adding the pics. Give me some time and I will have them all back up.
10-17-2013 11:29 PM
downhilldustin i just put a 1979 ford hp 60 into my 2wd first gen, ill be making a build thread soon
10-17-2013 01:43 PM
ElkyRacer All of them.
10-17-2013 08:07 AM
K5runner@hotmail.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElkyRacer View Post
That would be great! Thanks
Will do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxracer View Post
How did it ride and how did you like the cab? Always liked the first gens but the few I drove were pretty loud and hopped like crazy around town. My 2nd gen is a little better but I might grab a first gen down the road. Oh and what actual fuel economy did you get on the 37s?
It drove really nice. It was smooth because of the long leafs F/R. And since it was relatively low it was stable on the fwy and around corners. There is a bunch of insulation on the cab (min of 1" on the firewall and floors) but it was still loud. I think that the cab (fit, finish, material, etc...)is a pile of dog shit. It ratteld everything loose, the cab I'm convinced is made of paper. super thin, can't really use the back for anything other than a place for your backpack and jacket. Even then a pain to get them out. If I were to end up with another 1st gen extra cab (Which I wont!) The seats and mounting of will need to be changed to ones with sliders and tilt forward to get into the back.

I think the frame is super strong and no need to mess with. I did not like the placement of the plastic fuel tank though. I had purchased, and still have a 40 gal suburban tank with all the mounting to install behind the axle.

If you look at my old dodge the only thing that was left on there from the way it was built in Mexico, is the motor, frame and body. Everything else got changed to something *better.

Don't get me wrong I loved that truck, actually more than the 05 CTD I drive now. It was the perfect combination of tow and play. No problem towing 15k+ at 65mph then wheelen all weekend long.

*My opinion

Please tell me what pics you guys want to see and I will post them.
10-16-2013 08:32 PM
gtxracer How did it ride and how did you like the cab? Always liked the first gens but the few I drove were pretty loud and hopped like crazy around town. My 2nd gen is a little better but I might grab a first gen down the road. Oh and what actual fuel economy did you get on the 37s?
10-16-2013 07:41 PM
ElkyRacer
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
I will go back and re post the pics. I have them all. Web shots went on vacation lol.
That would be great! Thanks
10-16-2013 05:38 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com I will go back and re post the pics. I have them all. Web shots went on vacation lol.
10-16-2013 05:30 PM
ElkyRacer I do realize it was a 2wd. That's why I asked because I just picked up a 2wd truck and have a SD60 in my car port right now. Just kind of eyeballing with a tape showed that if I kept the springs straight I was going to have to out board the mounts quite a bit. Was just wondering how yours was set up but all of the pics are gone. Thanks for the response tho.
10-16-2013 04:55 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElkyRacer View Post
So I guess that means no more pictures in this thread huh? Was really interested in seeing how the Ford axle fit with the wider spring pad width.
You do realize that the truck was a 2x4 so there were no spring mounts. I built all the mounts. But to answer your question. I lined the rear of the springs under the frame, for the shackles. Then I just made the mounts for the front. The springs are about 3" or so narrower in the front than the rear. ****There is nothing wrong with that, actually most of the newer truck are than way in the rear. It helps for lateral stability. I ran a really long shackle 6+" I think.

The truck is still around, I sold it to a guy that went to my high school. (Yes I still live near the town where I grew up ) I do get an Email when this thread is posted, on so if there is any questions on the build. Please feel free to ask away. I really liked that truck and I do miss it.
10-15-2013 08:52 PM
ElkyRacer
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
Sorry to say that I sold the Dodge today.
So I guess that means no more pictures in this thread huh? Was really interested in seeing how the Ford axle fit with the wider spring pad width.
04-03-2013 07:13 AM
Rompn
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
Sorry to say that I sold the Dodge today.
Congrats bud. It's sad but happy to hear at the same time. With racing in the near future and other tow rig projects in the works, it's for the better. See ya Thursday night.
04-03-2013 12:31 AM
adam5432002
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
Sorry to say that I sold the Dodge today.
WHAT THE FUCK! What happined? Pm or text me........ Id like to see if you get what I was telling you back in the day.
04-02-2013 11:05 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com Sorry to say that I sold the Dodge today.
01-08-2013 09:10 PM
just4cuz Wow, big difference! Diesel is the way to go towing stuff.
01-08-2013 09:06 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com Ya he has 37" Mil take offs. And yes the dodge take about 3/4 tank to go to Dove Springs and back with his toybox attached. His Ford took 3+ tanks. lol. this is a far better truck for him. Lets just hope I don't take too much stuff off of it first.
01-08-2013 08:47 PM
just4cuz Sounds like a set of 4.10's is what would solve that problem. Did he step up to 37's or does he still have 35's on it. 3.54's are diesel gears for Petes sake. No denying the diesel will get probably twice the mileage towing.
I'm trying to get my sons truck through smog, Last time it had high Nox at low rpm. Only thing it failed. We rebuilt the engine last winter, now its got about a thousand miles on it. Found the O2 sensor was only generating about 1/2 volt, should be up to 1. Fixed a couple vacuum leaks(old crusty stock Chevy hard plastic lines) and checked the plugs and MAP sensor today. Plugs looked great and MAP sensor tested good too. Doing the plug wires and EGR solenoid check tomorrow then back to the smog guy. Pretty sure the O2 sensor was the problem though HC was really low,CO low and Nox high at low speed.
01-08-2013 07:54 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com I think with a very mild build that it has, it runs good when empty. Add his little buggy (prob 2000 lbs total) and its maxed out. With 3.54 gears and the T-19 4spd, it kind of brings the suck while towing. Your either holding 70+ with the motor lugging or 45-50 in 3rd with the motor screaming. He got a 26' toybox so the old truck needs to go. Or its a $$$$$$ for a 5spd, 4.88's and more motor mods to still get less than 8 mpg like my Tan truck.

I think this old dodge will be good for him.
01-08-2013 07:25 PM
just4cuz That 460 killing him at the pump or he just want a longer WB for towing?
01-05-2013 12:18 PM
K5runner@hotmail.com Just a little update,
The truck will stay together. But the front axle (79' Ford 60) will be swapped out for a Chevy 60. And the T-case (Ford 205) will be swapped out for a Chevy round pattern 205. The truck will NOT be sold, It will be given to my bro. He will use it, like I used it as a tow vehicle, he has a toy box and a buggy ready to go out.

The parts taken off of the Dodge (front axle and T-case) will be used on my 89 Chevy crew.

I broke my Blazer pretty bad the other day (broke a 14b detroit, dana70 detroit, and the front dana70 gears) so no progress on either of these (Dodge/89 crew) will start for a while.
12-09-2012 02:37 PM
g-wizz ha just to mess with you... p-stroke
12-09-2012 01:25 AM
g-wizz
Quote:
Originally Posted by K5runner@hotmail.com View Post
I was told that my motor (92') was the same "long block" as the p-pumped motors. Cam, pistons, head, etc... I know that I need the timing cover and accessories along with the pump brackets and lines. Oh and the p-pump.

The reason to go to P-pump, not sure I here its easier to make more power. I can use a little more, and I don't know a whole bunch about the VE. It runs great now just thinking for the future I guess. Plus If I need to buy a motor might as well be a 94-98 right? I need the trans(nv4500) along with the engine plate and starter. I know about the pop pressures I had to re set them when I got them. They were built for a p-pumped motor.

I was looking into the industrial motors is there anything to avoid? I would love to get one with the A/C up a little higher and a compressor instead of the vacuum pump.

This swap will not happen for a little bit, so there is time to plan and find stuff for a good deal. There is a bunch of wheelen to do, too. Plus I want to wait til I build my shop in my back yard. So I can do it indoors.
p-pump whittier 1500
should be out of a medium duty service truck, what to look for is the pad for mounting the ac, if its the four bolt mount flat on the side with the alt above its the right one. that at the very least should save you 400-800$ just in parts. the ac pumps are around 200 new on ebay with fan clutch. with that set up it uses a J-80 alt mount so you have a ton of super buff cheap alternators that will work. it needs work so thats dollars in your favor, you just need to get that guy to agree to it.
12-08-2012 12:11 AM
K5runner@hotmail.com I was told that my motor (92') was the same "long block" as the p-pumped motors. Cam, pistons, head, etc... I know that I need the timing cover and accessories along with the pump brackets and lines. Oh and the p-pump.

The reason to go to P-pump, not sure I here its easier to make more power. I can use a little more, and I don't know a whole bunch about the VE. It runs great now just thinking for the future I guess. Plus If I need to buy a motor might as well be a 94-98 right? I need the trans(nv4500) along with the engine plate and starter. I know about the pop pressures I had to re set them when I got them. They were built for a p-pumped motor.

I was looking into the industrial motors is there anything to avoid? I would love to get one with the A/C up a little higher and a compressor instead of the vacuum pump.

This swap will not happen for a little bit, so there is time to plan and find stuff for a good deal. There is a bunch of wheelen to do, too. Plus I want to wait til I build my shop in my back yard. So I can do it indoors.
12-07-2012 10:08 PM
SChandler
Quote:
Originally Posted by g-wizz View Post
naw man the heads are different. the pop pressure on the injectors are different as well, youll have to change the accessory drive. its more work than just starting with the right stuff to begin with. just try to find a class 8 truck motor or ford cummins motor, comes with all the right brackets to fit in the chevy frame with ac cause the chevy frame is narrower, p7100, also a sae 2 bell/motorplate , lets you run a real trans, auto or manual, and a divorce t case. start with a 205 but if your going to get serious about the motor it will have to go. do a real rebuild with o rings and you should be set for a long time. and what ever else you can afford. like cam, huge turbo, compound turbo, ect.

you know the history, and to some degree you can back that up online, which should help you sell it. at the very best it shows that your not a dumbass with your truck and as such the mods/maintenance were done competently.

ha crew cab package deal..

if you need the medium duty brackets, tci global, ask for david or something, its that bus yard in riverside/tmec. pretty much half the price of factory cummins... basically you could get all the brackets and jive for the chevy swap for prob around 400bones. at least thats what i did for my first gen.

dont forget that your first gen motor has 12mm head bolts vs 14mm for the p pumped motors.
Cylinder heads are interchangeable from 1991.5 - 1998. Injector bodies are 7mm from 91.5-98. Only the 89-91 (non-intercooled) trucks used different (9mm bodies) injectors. The pop pressures are different between VE and P-pump injectors. Also, head bolts are the same diameter (12mm) for all 12 valve (89-98) Dodge/Cummins applications. ARP part no. 247-4203 is good for 89-98 Cummins apps. You can get 14mm head stud kits, which are generally marketed for 94-98 trucks because you have to go pretty far with the power upgrades to need the 14mm studs. Farther than the VE is capable of supplying fuel. To run the P-pump on a VE motor, you need to swap out the timing case for the 94-98 style timing case, swap the injector lines, and injectors.

K5runner, what's the thinking behind going to the P-pump injection pump? With the right set of injectors, turbo, fuel supply, and some tuning of the pump, 350hp-400hp shouldn't be out of reach of a reasonable VE-pump-based build. Are you planning on going big power or just like the P-pump better?
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