|11-28-2015 10:36 PM|
New races Timken 382-S fixed my hub issue. Locking Hubs engage nicely now. Packing bearing over and over again brings the suck. I'm starting to like the idea of unit bearings.
Brakes and steering are done. I used my Motive Products Speed Bleeder.It pressurized the brake system to force the air out.
Front Link is pretty busy. I ran the ARB andBrake Line together using Poly Performance Rubber Line Mounts and Hose Clamps. I still need to buy some for the PS Lines.
Made some quick mounts for the rear to run Hard Line down the Upper Link.
|11-20-2015 11:13 PM|
|over's tj||^^ Thank You Sir|
|11-20-2015 10:09 PM|
Bump Stops are ProFender 2.0 www.profendersuspension.com, 3" Travel Front, 4" Travel Rear. The measurement you want is 2 1/6" full compressed.
|11-20-2015 07:12 PM|
What selectable hubs are you using? I'm curious if Yukons will work without any modification, I was planning on a set later. Nice to know that simple cheap fix with bearing race!
Hey, you think you can you get me some measurements on your bumps?
From bottom of contact pad to top edge of body right where body necks down to 2". If yours are aired up then just the two measurements to add together for a fully compressed number. They are 2.0 fox right?
|11-20-2015 02:39 AM|
Change the inner bearing races.
|11-20-2015 12:22 AM|
Steering is pretty much done, I just need to start her up and make sure it's bled and ready to go.
I made some custom brackets that bolt to the sides of the radiator, and then the 20" dual pass Derale 13262 bolts to them. I positioned the cooler so that the lines can enter and exit where the AC lines do.
I used Russel 1/4 NPT to -6 instead of the supplied push connect fittings. I drilled the cooler fitting a little bigger so that I could tap it further and get the fitting a little deeper into the cooler. They were just to shallow for my liking.
I welded a mounting point for the reservoir.
There is a lot of $hit stuffed on that part of the firewall. I layed it out pretty well because everything is accessible.
|11-20-2015 12:22 AM|
I'm pretty sure I have outer stubs for a new axles, and hubs off and old axle. Inner shafts look right, they are tight against the C's.
I think I'm going to stuff a rag in the hub, and take a little off with a flap disc. I'd like to still be able to run hubs.
Her is the drivers side. Hub functions smoothly, but the locking hub doesn't look like it is tight against the hub?
|11-16-2015 11:51 PM|
I have 89 or 90 D60 that was also from DRW (according to prev owner who converted it) I put in Yukon shafts & SUMMIT Machine drive slugs, caps fit fine but I just checked & passenger side stub stick out is also about 1/16".
Drivers side when I checked with a metal straight edge was about the same but I could push it flush with hub (passenger side would not go in)
I'd have to check records on axle BOM# and what Yukon part #s I used but pretty sure I just asked for (shafts for 88.5 - 90 shafts) and they were a popular stocking part.
|11-16-2015 10:49 PM|
Thank you, it was a relief knowing that it starts.
Today was a little bummer. I was finishing the front axle, and on the passenger side I noticed the Locking Hub wasn't tight to the Hub, and I couldn't turn the dial. I pulled it off, and realized the Stub Shaft is sticking out about a 1/16" outside the Hub.
My axle was originally a DRW from the 80's and I'm guessing the SRW Hubs I bought were from an older 60, and according to the 60 Bible older 60's us a stub shaft that is 11.20", while the newer axles use 11.40". Or... it could be I have Inner Shafts from an 80's SRW which are a little longer that the 80's DRW. Or I could have gotten a miss shipment and have a mix of both
I'm hoping I can cut the shafts down to size.
Looks like I have to pull the whole front end apart.
|11-16-2015 03:59 PM|
|carslut||wow, it sounds great. whole project is well done.|
|11-16-2015 03:18 PM|
|11-16-2015 12:42 PM|
|tjjared413||Nice job man!! Your getting closer|
|11-16-2015 12:10 AM|
Oh yeah, we got a runner! I used a short serpentine belt to bypass the PS Pump.
I put it through 3 heat cycles and so far no codes, good oil pressure, holding at 210*, 14 volts, clutch works, speedometer works.
I just need a few more fittings and then the Steering will be complete.
Here's a startup and walk around.
|11-16-2015 12:10 AM|
Thanks Over's, I forgot I posted them earlier, lol!
|11-15-2015 07:35 PM|
|over's tj||One page back. Starting post 436 I think.|
|11-15-2015 07:26 PM|
Do you have a link to the line holders you used on the frame? I like those a lot.
Everything looks very clean and tidy, well thought out and placed.
|11-15-2015 11:13 AM|
Today is the day to see if it will start!
This should be everything I need. Except damn Amazon shipped the wrong belt in the correct sleeve. I got that Gatorback belt for $5.83 now I'm stuck getting the correct belt for $30 at the local parts store. The local stores have been getting a ton of my business, but I don't how they stay in business with the prices they are charging.
This is my best to attempt to pass smog.
The filler neck came out pretty sweet
Hardlines on the frame rail. Lower brake line is not complete yet.
Lines at the firewall. I used Russel Compression fittings to a 5/16 male -6 to tie into the factory fuel line up to the engine. I was able to reuse the safety clip as well.
|11-11-2015 12:09 PM|
Damn, you're right. 6 years to the day
I was hoping to get it started today, but I'm missing a few pieces.
|11-11-2015 08:23 AM|
|GRMhick||No pressure max..|
|11-10-2015 04:57 PM|
^ Yeah same here. I actually have poly motor mounts, but they lift the engine an inch, so I might trade them for regular height mounts.
I dropped off my rear drive-shaft today at South Bay Driveline to get lengthened and to add thicker tubing. I think he's going .143 wall thickness, should be strong enough.
Swung by 4WP today and picked up my new battery. I'm pretty stoked on this battery, should work well. I figure I can use the side posts for the winch.
|11-10-2015 12:15 AM|
Yeah. Leaving case support is a good call, your trans and case are all mounted to a beefy belly pan right? Not so sure on keeping rubber engine mounts with manual trans though. (I'm assuming the rest is hard poly) You don't have the dampening of a torque converter to cushion hard jolts through driveline.
With an automatic I'm even worried about cracked block at (4.0) motor mounts, I've seen a few, I know one was a stick others not sure.
Be patient on spring tuning, Don't worry until its together at true trail weight.
You may be underestimating how big a girl she's gonna be
Your close, keep it up!
|11-09-2015 11:06 PM|
What the hell happened to DieHard Platinum Batteries, the ones made by Odyssey? I guess they are discontinued? Looks like I'll be picking up an Odyssey 34/78 PC1500. 4 Wheel Parts stocks them, or I can order through Amazon?
I got a ton of little stuff done today.
I've decided to run the Tail Support, should be fine.
14 bolt is pretty much done. I just need to add limit straps and a vent line.
New Studs installed, and Grade 8 Axle Shaft Bolts
Brake Lines done. I routed them through the holes in the bump stop mounts.
New Lugs $24 eBay special.
Wishing I moved the upper coilover mounts up a few inches. I'm thinking of switching to 14" shocks right about now. I could use less droop, and more stuff.
Well shit It's sitting a little stink bug. Kind of opposite of Bro. There is about 10 1/2" shock showing. The springs are brand new, and there isn't really any weight on them, so I'll see once it's all finished and flexed out. Current Spring 100 over 150 with only 1/2" of preload.
|11-09-2015 11:54 AM|
^ Yeah, I think you are right. I tried to center my Tranny and Tcase support so that it allow twist under load and not create two separate torque moments, if that makes sense. Engine Mounts are factory rubber.
I think the issue was that the atlas tail-housing doesn't really bolt to a structural part of the case.
Really, it is there just to support the weight and isn't really a "mount". I don't think my 225ft-lbs at 3,000rpm is going to break anything
|11-09-2015 12:25 AM|
Thought potential of cracking cases (when using support) was due to mismatched rubber/poly, then you'd think trans likely victim. What are your engine & trans mount bushings made of?
Any known examples of Atlas failure with a support, what were conditions, actual damage? Could it be AA just covering there butts?
I have poly throughout with a TMR support, it just has one pinch bolt on ring. Since its on center, I always thought if torque forces were off some how it would just slip on tail housing..? I even marked it to see evidence of moving.
Unless issue is not torque.
I could see potential cracking or breaking something in drivetrain on a hard belly slam when trans mount is pushed up differently then tail, especially if trans mounted directly to belly pan.
My trans & tail have independent frame crossmembers but slam skid hard enough in right spot it could push on trans crossmember.
|11-08-2015 10:49 PM|
Hahaha, oh man, that video is still funny!
Nothing major to update. Still just the little things. Skid plate is in but I'm hesitant to run the Atlas tail housing support. I read that the Atlas is not made to be supported by the tail housing, and that AA doesn't warranty the case if there is signs a tail support was used. My case is way past warranty, but I wonder if this has been an on going issue.
I've been building my own brake an hydraulic lines out of Earl's components. They work well and are pretty easy to use, only downside is they are expensive.
All the Emission Lines are plumbed, and Steering Ram Lines are in. I still need to figure out which fitting I need on the PSC pump to convert it to -6
Bro!, Coilovers going in.
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